Lubricant question….

Anchorite

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I don’t intend to open a can of worms - but I realize I might. My father always said, if it pivots, oil it. If it slides, “grease” it. The machinists handbook as I recall recommended bearing grass for threads, but that may have been before the current anti seize lubricants came along. For years I used either white lithium grease (Permatex) or Brownells Action Lube plus in very light amounts on slide rails and bolt lugs. Is there any merit to using anti-seize compound instead of bearing grease? I’m out of grease and need to replace. Curious as to current schools of thought.
 
Does the anti seize compound have any genuine lubrication properties, especially on high speed parts like reciprocating slides/frame rails? Does it stay in place or is it thin and will migrate, etc?

(Anti-seize certainly isn’t something I would use to replace a CLP type oil on the gun.)

If not, I agree with @The Bushmaster and go get some more grease for the parts you intend to grease.

Stay safe.
 
Mostly ^^^ absolutely correct. Unless... If you're shooting a Gatlin out of a Warthog, or some other outrageously demanding weapon, you'll need a specific lube. I'd agree, stay the course.
 
Anti-seize removes all metal to metal friction. Not all metal to metal friction is bad. The 1911 was designed for the friction of lubed surfaces. We have had applications when building machines where I worked that anti-seize actually caused the bolts to come loose.
 
Thanks guys. I remain skeptical of the need for anti-seize compound to replace the old high pressure grease. I think I will stay the course and stick with grease. Much appreciated thoughts and comments.
 
I’ve been using Mobile One synthetic grease for years, but then I also have 4 copies of Machinery’s Handbook. I keep a small tub full on my bench. 1911s and Hi Powers like it. I use 30w synthetic motor oil as well. If it slides …….
 
As we all know, if you even just open the tube of anti seize, you will end up with it all over your hands, your gun, your gun room and everywhere else. Save it for working on tractors and use grease and oil as your dad suggests.
 
Anti-Seize has two uses on guns; choke tubes on shotguns, and removable breech plugs on on-line muzzleloaders. Stick with grease for your other uses.
+1.

Use oil or grease where appropriate for lubrication and anti-seize to prevent seizing. As a practical note, anti-seize will permanently stain any clothing it touches.
 
I thought the copper color on a new Glock was anti-seize.

Any road, I have a jar of MoS2 loaded grease a plant craftsman gave me. It really smooths the slide, but talk about stains, wow. The tube of Gunslick graphited grease the hardware store would throw in with a gun purchase is almost as bad.
 
Pretty much if it's slickery it will work.
I use Lubriplate.

Lube works better when it's used with it's intended application.
As a diesel tech I have access to gallons and pounds of various lube and have used everything at one time or another.
But a light grease and mineral oil works much better.

Anti-seize as lube on a gun will make it silver at least.
It does act as a lube, some torque specs call for it to be used on the threads and under the head of the bolt.
But if the specs call out for engine oil that's what I use, a different lube can change the clamp load.

Kinda like head bolts, everyone uses oil but Detroit Diesel has the peanut butter paste that you are supposed to use.
If used on anything other than DD head and crank main bolts the bolt will shear off before you get to the torque spec it's that slick.
Still wouldn't use it on a gun though.
 
Because this is black, I believe it has molybdenum disulphide as an additive. Could have graphite too. This is a semi fluid grease, which is thicker than oil, but thinner than grease.

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Actually it is not much thinner than lubriplate 105.

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hardly anyone knows about semi fluid greases unless they were in the military. Semi fluid greases are good stuff, particularly in hot weather.

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Look, just go to Walmart and buy the cheapest motor oil, or a tube of marine trailer wheel bearing grease. Use the anti seize on the threads of your M1a and Garand gas cylinder plugs. So you can get those off.

this was a special type of gas cylinder lock plug. A self releasing gas cylinder lock plug. The threads sheared and the plug blew forward of the firing line.

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bailing cord did not keep it in place. Bummer

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I thought the copper color on a new Glock was anti-seize.
I acquired quite a few new Glocks and the copper tinted lubricant is anti-seize... from one of my Glock Armorer Manuals. One good way to inspect and trust-but-verify a Glock at the gun show for those being represented as "new" or never fired will have the lubricant on the rails as well.
Screen Shot 2023-09-25 at 5.53.13 PM.png
 
I’ve been using Mobile One synthetic grease for years, but then I also have 4 copies of Machinery’s Handbook.
Interestingly the 1st Edition of Machinery's Handbook does not even mention "grease" as a lubricant. Many lubricants of the day being animal (whale oil, sperm oil, lard oil etc), mineral oil variants or vegetable based oils with some various metallic particles mixed in.
The 31st edition has all manner of "grease" related data and grew in width over 110 years.

Anti-seize (both copper and aluminum variants) is indeed messy to apply; I have used the copper type to apply to pistol slide rails and both to muzzle thread protectors. Also worked great for motorcycle spark plugs.

Recently I have tried a new whiz-bam Black Rifle lubricant, a hybrid of oil-grease concoction, from CherryBalmz company. Claims it adheres to the surfaces and friendly over a wide temperature range. They also have a variant for rim fire firearms.

From the amateurs library.
IMG_8755.jpg IMG_8756.jpg IMG_8757.jpg IMG_8758.jpg IMG_8759.jpg IMG_8762.jpg IMG_8763.jpg
 
Interestingly the 1st Edition of Machinery's Handbook does not even mention "grease" as a lubricant. Many lubricants of the day being animal (whale oil, sperm oil, lard oil etc), mineral oil variants or vegetable based oils with some various metallic particles mixed in.
The 31st edition has all manner of "grease" related data and grew in width over 110 years.

Anti-seize (both copper and aluminum variants) is indeed messy to apply; I have used the copper type to apply to pistol slide rails and both to muzzle thread protectors. Also worked great for motorcycle spark plugs.

Recently I have tried a new whiz-bam Black Rifle lubricant, a hybrid of oil-grease concoction, from CherryBalmz company. Claims it adheres to the surfaces and friendly over a wide temperature range. They also have a variant for rim fire firearms.

From the amateurs library.
View attachment 1173125View attachment 1173126View attachment 1173127View attachment 1173128View attachment 1173129View attachment 1173131View attachment 1173132
I figured a 1914 1st edition would be worth a small fortune. I found a couple at $100 which surprised me. I gave my desk edition to a machinist buddy. I kept my mid-sized edition w/ the disc.

I went through a couple of schools not that that is important, but I will keep using my Mobile One. :)
 
When I saw the title I started reaching for the popcorn bag myself :rofl:

Stay safe.
So did I.


Use your favorite oil/grease as long as it works.

I used RemOil as a kid and switched to BreakFree CLP at age 17 when Uncle introduced me to it. I have stuck with BreakFree CLP since then. I will use a light great where it is necessary.

As a retired machinist/tool and die maker, I could make some people's heads spin discussing the different types of lube oils and greases we used around the machine shop and on metal stamping dies.
 
So did I.


Use your favorite oil/grease as long as it works.

I used RemOil as a kid and switched to BreakFree CLP at age 17 when Uncle introduced me to it. I have stuck with BreakFree CLP since then. I will use a light great where it is necessary.

As a retired machinist/tool and die maker, I could make some people's heads spin discussing the different types of lube oils and greases we used around the machine shop and on metal stamping dies.
Been using grease for years on rails, just didn’t know if anti-seize (a’la Glock) was in any way a “better mouse trap.” I have come to the conclusion it is not.
 
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