Educate me on suppressors

I would probably go with a .30 cal suppressor rated for .300 Mag. It is unlikely that you'll find a suppressor that is made specifically for 6, 6.5, and 7mm bores, but a .30 caliber bore on the can will be fine for all of those and provide good suppression. You'll still have the sonic crack unless you step down to subs, but the report will be much quieter.

You will need to get your rifle threaded regardless of whether you use a direct thread suppressor or a quick detach suppressor (the QD muzzle break or flash hider threads onto your gun, then the suppressor attaches to that). Generally if you're looking for accuracy, most people go with a direct tread. Alignment of the baffles to the bore of the barrel is VERY important, so I wouldn't use something other than direct thread or QD.

2 things before you go and have your rifle threaded:
•make sure your smith knows what he is doing and makes the threads concentric to the bore, not the outside of the barrel. Nothing sucks more than getting a baffle strike because the smith screwed up the threads.
•wait until you order your suppressor (and know what thread pitch the suppressor has) before you thread the gun. If you mess up and get the wrong threads on the gun, thread adapters are out there, but if they are not concentric, they can lead to baffle strikes as well

This would receive better responses in the NFA subforum.

Strap on? Never seen that. Bolt on? That either. I've only ever seen and owned direct thread or quick-detach... and either way, your muzzle will need to be threaded.

Here are 3 companies that make 6.5 Silencers https://thunderbeastarms.com/products/ https://cruxsuppressors.com/products/axe6-5suppressor http://srtarms.com/vapr-suppressors/ and there are more. Make sure that you will not want a bigger caliber before purchasing.

I cant remember the name of the company right now, but I have seen a suppressor that clamps onto the birdcage of the AR.

Either sell your rifles and buy new ones threaded or have yours threaded, either way it'll be nice shooting.

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/12/12/rifle-suppressor/

"...but I have seen a suppressor that clamps onto the birdcage of the AR."

Gemtech used to make one:
https://gemtech.com/halo.html

I wonder if they used a larger than normal bore to avoid baffle strikes.

I looked into them a little a few years ago. My dim recollection was that some people were complaining they would loosen fairly quickly. I dunno if that was just with some flash hiders or what. It's certainly an attractive idea to be able to just mount to any old A2 birdcage.

I don't define "clamp-on" the way some might. This muzzle brake is a clam-on design in my understanding: http://wittmachine.co/images/witt/clamp-on-2.jpg. I use the term "clamp-on' in that you'd need to tighten together a split feature by way of fasteners to 'clamp' it all onto the host.

The Gemtech Halo is a QD can in my view because it doesn't require tools as its mount hooks onto the flash hider and is then threaded tight by hand.

I don't define "clamp-on" the way some might. This muzzle brake is a clam-on design in my understanding: http://wittmachine.co/images/witt/clamp-on-2.jpg. I use the term "clamp-on' in that you'd need to tighten together a split feature by way of fasteners to 'clamp' it all onto the host.

Perhaps this will be a clamp-on http://www.paladinarmory.com/customsu.htm

This company makes a clamp-on device that you can attach you muffler to https://www.tacticool22.com/product/non-threaded-barrel-adapter-58-barrel-12-28-thread-black/

horsey300 said:

I've seen thread on, bolt on, strap on, quite a few companies making them. In my scenario I'm looking at predators/varmints with 6mm 6.5 and 7mm bores, I'm not interested in true subsonic, just looking to reduce the report and recoil if feasible. None of my muzzles are currently threaded, but that can be remedied if that's best. The 7mm is a magnum if that matters, I really know VERY little about requirements for effectiveness, but I do understand the legal aspects surrounding them. I just want to know what the best options are.

Click to expand...

They are all thread on with niche exceptions. Nearly always the barrel is threaded. I have sees some pressed on .22 adapters to provide he thread but the barrel is always threaded on larger calibers. The threads must be parallel and concentric to a very high degree to avoid a large point-of-aim shift, let along a baffle strike.

Mike