Savage 11 pillars

beware, you may have to cut the rear pillar in order to clear the sear. I havent used their adjustable pillars, but I know that is an issue. I had to cut my home made pillars in order to avoid it.. quite a bit actually as you can see in the pic.. please ignore the mess

For pillar bedding I use threaded lamp tubes. Available at hardware stores. Cut to the length you need with a dremel & file to fit. Works great.

1/2 will work on the boyds.. if you go slow and keep your drill straight. Mine split out just a hair (though mine was a 110 vs. a 11) near the mag well which got rebuilt with bedding compound. Good call on the 3/8.

I hate to resurrect an old thread but have a question. I'm about to do my first pillar bedding job instead of paying a Smith to do it. Bought my dad a boyds stock for his cheap savage axis. Have seen several people mention that the stock is likely to crack a bit when drilling out the holes for the bedding pillars. Since the lamp tubes are only 3/8 OD instead of the typical 9/16 for store bought pillars, would the stock be less likely to crack drilling a smaller 3/8" hole? Really don't want to crack this new stock if so can help it.

The issue is mostly the bit running away. Ive pillared two boyds stocks and havent had a problem.

Use a drill press equiped with a vice if possible, a very sharp bit (just go buy a new decent bit), and go slowly clearing chips offten. I think part of the problem is what ever they use to stabilize the laminate. It reacts alot like plexiglass.

Actually a holesaw or spade bit might work better.

Use good epoxy for the pillars (no glue type). I recommend Devcon steel putty. It dries dark grey, so don't get it anywhere that can be seen. The pillars should be a loose fit to the stock so epoxy surrounds & strengthens the area.

Good luck

LoonWulf gives some good tips on drilling.

I would simply add use a brad point type drill bit instead of the generic all purpose drill bit and mark the center of the hole with a center punch. Self loading spring center punches also work well to mark the center of the hole. You need a divot at the center of where you drill and the brad point drill bit type has a sharp point that will stay in the divot until the shoulders of the drill bit begin to bite. Keeps it from walking from your center.

bric2000 said:

My stock for the 11 broke though when I drilled it out. There just was not a lot of material there. I forget which hole but it really didn't matter, the epoxy filled in. I used the lamp rod and drilled bigger than 3/8. It all turned out much better than I originally thought. Definitely over thought this one but it was my first.

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Congratulations on installing pillars. Now use hex head action screws & torque from 40 to 60 lbs & record, noting your results. Let us know how it shoots!

bric2000 said:

My stock for the 11 broke though when I drilled it out. There just was not a lot of material there. I forget which hole but it really didn't matter, the epoxy filled in. I used the lamp rod and drilled bigger than 3/8. It all turned out much better than I originally thought. Definitely over thought this one but it was my first.

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It would have been the rear, id forgotten how little material there is on those till i went and looked at mine this morning (this one isnt pillared). I dont remember it cracking or punching thru on the two i did. BUT that was a few years ago, and Im pretty sure I used smaller id/od steel tubing, as i still have a small chunk sitting here.

boom boom said:

You need a divot at the center of where you drill and the brad point drill bit type has a sharp point that will stay in the divot until the shoulders of the drill bit begin to bite. Keeps it from walking from your center

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Thats a good point, especially if your working with a stock that dosent have a forward action screw hole, like the Richards that i bought for my 11.
If you DO have a hole already in place, you can start with a normal bit, then once you get it deep enough to have a straight sidewall continue with a brad point....You can use the same trick with a spade bit, or if your making a plug for something even a hole saw sans guide bit (assuming youve got a big enough drill bit that the hole saw will fit into the hole)

Two months ago I made a homemade V block and two home made pillars for this old 2003 Savage 12 that I converted from 22-250 to 250 Savage with a Lilja barrel, Timney trigger, and Boyd Walnut stock.

very cool Clark!