Making a bore guide?

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swampcrawler

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Has anyone here made their own cleaning rod bore guides? I'm considering trying it, just for the experience. I have access to a lathe.

I was thinking of just picking up some Delrin round stock, turning to bolt diameter, boring through at roughly bore diameter and turning the "snout". Seems like it would be relatively simple.

Questions: O Ring or just friction fit the "snout" to the chamber?

How far into the chamber should the end of the "snout" be? I assume it should end at the shoulder area? Or should it extend partially into the neck?

Thanks!
 
Personally, I would use brass, and make a simple 60° cone with a hole that is a couple thou over the cleaning rod size. You're just trying to avoid rubbing the rod across the crown.

On another note, I rarely put anything down the bore of a rifle besides bullets. Unless you're shooting cast lead or corrosive ammo, the need for scrubbing bores is dramatically overstated.
 
Personally, I would use brass, and make a simple 60° cone with a hole that is a couple thou over the cleaning rod size. You're just trying to avoid rubbing the rod across the crown.

On another note, I rarely put anything down the bore of a rifle besides bullets. Unless you're shooting cast lead or corrosive ammo, the need for scrubbing bores is dramatically overstated.

I think the o/p is cleaning from the breech and the bore guide helps keep solvents out of the action and from damaging the throat. Some of us also fire old rifles with dark and pitted bores on occasion and these are useful when you have to really scrub to clean the fouling. I have the crown protector and use it on some rifles but a lot of bolt actions are easier to center the cleaning rod using a bore guide through the breech.
 
I've made a few bore guides to fit the bolt raceway out of nylon or uhmw (plastic material) with another smaller diameter piece at 90 degrees to fit the bolt handle cut out. Very simple, does not seal the chamber.
 
I've made a few bore guides to fit the bolt raceway out of nylon or uhmw (plastic material) with another smaller diameter piece at 90 degrees to fit the bolt handle cut out. Very simple, does not seal the chamber.
Not familiar with uhmw? Care to elaborate. Always looking for a new angle.
 
Thanks. That would be a dandy material for a bore guide to be made from after reading its characteristics.

Curiously enough, I will be working with a cousin of it this next week. Polyolefin is a std. product in rain screening products and I am residing the chimney chase this next week using a polyurethane stone simulacrum panel material. Polyolefin does not play well with adhesives so I am taking it slow and using expensive composite panel screws as reinforcement along with the company's recommended adhesive. Hoping for the best as I don't like redoing stuff-rather pay more than have to do it all over again in ten years.
 
Thanks. That would be a dandy material for a bore guide to be made from after reading its characteristics.

UHMW is great for many applications. Soft but very tough, chemical resistant, extremely high lubricity. Machines nicely, although a bit stringly compared to many polymers. Pretty easy to shape with hand tools compared to ABS and nylons. It's very useful for making drawer guides and the like. I also used it for the impact buffers in my folding pack rifles.

Just bear in mind that you cannot paint or dye the stuff, and no glue or epoxy I'm aware of bonds with it, so joining pieces requires a mechanical connection. I used it for the fuel tank in a custom nitro RC car, which required a very complex shape to fit over, under and around other components. I used epoxy to seal the top, but had to run screws to actually hold it on.
 
The Possum Hollow bore guides are good to go.

I have used cheaper, universal bore guides, and I'll admit, I enjoy having a solvent port in the bore guide. If I were turning my own (faster and easier to buy Possom Hollows), I'd run a larger diameter in the shank, then cone at the chamber, with a port along the side. Run my patch into the guide, hit a couple drops at the port position, then let everything line into the bore at the cone.
 
The new graphite cleaning rods pretty much eliminate adversely wearing away metal in the chamber area while cleaning. Coated rods are good too but their coating may eventually wear down to bare metal after considerable use. As to keeping solvents from dripping down into the magazine area, protect with a paper towel or rag & just be careful.

To each his own. Just sayin'....
 
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