adcoch1
Member
It starts....
.375 ruger or .375 H&H.....
- Thread starter LoonWulf
- Start date
- Status
Yeah....Ive gotta call Shaw on monday and see what extra info they need, if any, besides the barrel.
Then its doing the little stuff like cermacoating the action and bottom metal while i wait for the barrel. Last time i talked to them about a different project the wait was about 6 weeks.
Then its doing the little stuff like cermacoating the action and bottom metal while i wait for the barrel. Last time i talked to them about a different project the wait was about 6 weeks.
That would be a nice build!
Probably fairly expensive tho considering the amount of work needed to feed magnum size case, unless of course its already been converted to feed the larger cases.
I might be a little concerned with action strength as well, tho im not sure how strong the properly heat treated 03s are.
Probably fairly expensive tho considering the amount of work needed to feed magnum size case, unless of course its already been converted to feed the larger cases.
I might be a little concerned with action strength as well, tho im not sure how strong the properly heat treated 03s are.
54Hawkin
Member
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2017
- Messages
- 25
No, its a mid 30's action its plenty strong. Yeah, the rifle meant a lot to me, and want to build a nice rifle out of it. More of a one of a kind piece, contemplating a 416 as well.
Well ive never seen a 1903 as a stoping rifle yet, that should be pretty awesome! Id probably go with the .375 Ruger or .375-338 if your inclined to be even more obscure (better case supply tho). The .416 would be cool too.
Barrels on its way as of this morning, should have the new one in a month or two.
For the stock reinforcement, what do you guys think of using a couple of pieces of all thread inletted and epoxied into the stock from the top. That way it isnt visible on the outside. I guess Wby uses something similar tho ive never looked at one of their heavy rifle stocks.
I can do regular cross bolts as well, just thought the hidden reinforcement would be kinda cool.
For the stock reinforcement, what do you guys think of using a couple of pieces of all thread inletted and epoxied into the stock from the top. That way it isnt visible on the outside. I guess Wby uses something similar tho ive never looked at one of their heavy rifle stocks.
I can do regular cross bolts as well, just thought the hidden reinforcement would be kinda cool.
adcoch1
Member
I think the hidden reinforcement is a good idea, but I would probably use square key stock instead of all thread.
I have some 5/16 square stock on hand...what do you think about bedding it in contact with the back of the recoil lug, or should i just put it where they usually do for a cross bolt.
Last edited:
adcoch1
Member
I'd contact the recoil lug if it was mine, seems like that would be the beginning location for a stock failure, and the steel on steel contact should help. Just my .02 though.
Either one will make for a nice rifle. I'm probably a bit old fashioned, I have a 375 H&H and that would be my choice if your rifle action is long enough for it. I like its history, versatility and even the look of it. Also the fact that while it is certainly powerful it's not too powerful if you know what I mean. It's recoil is't nearly as bad as others in it's class or as bad as people who have never shot one think it will be. It is also common enough to find ammo for it almost anywhere in the world should you be fortunate enough to take it to exotic, far off distant places. My 375 H&H is an old Ruger #1 Tropical that has been to Africa twice, unfortunately not with me.
Last edited:
Got the stock reinforcements in. There wasnt enough room behind the recoil lug to get the square key in without notching it for the front action screw....didnt wanna do that.
Anyway i wonder if the 1x1/2" chunks of epoxy dont do more to reinforce the stock than the metal inserts.
Ill need to redo the whole bedding when i get the action and barrel back together and refinished, so i left some room to fill at that point.
And I forgot to take pictures of the inserts....but they were just square stock i put notches in to help grab the epoxy.
Anyway i wonder if the 1x1/2" chunks of epoxy dont do more to reinforce the stock than the metal inserts.
Ill need to redo the whole bedding when i get the action and barrel back together and refinished, so i left some room to fill at that point.
And I forgot to take pictures of the inserts....but they were just square stock i put notches in to help grab the epoxy.
Offfhand
Member.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 2,442
Mr. Gordon should have his hands slapped for mentioning the .358 Norma in this thread and thus pulling the lid off one of the best kept medium bore secrets. But since the genie is now out of the bottle anyway the rest of the secret is that it gets 2800fps with a 250 grain bullet (Handloaders are claming 2900) and it fits in a STANDARD LENGTH action. Here is a .350 Norma I had built on a milsurp Mauser action. I've taken it to Sweden a couple times for elg (moose) hunts and my hosts were delighted to see an American using a Swedish caliber. It stopped a couple bulls in their tracks..
Last edited:
GooseGestapo
Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2003
- Messages
- 6,154
I'm late to the party, but have been watching the thread.
My .375 is the Ruger. It's got a curious history. It belonged to a physician from Columbus, Ga. He took it to Africa and reputedly killed a variety of plains game with it. At some point, the rear sight was damaged or removed and the screw holes WELDED! over.
I bought the rifle cheap. It shot well, but I wanted the original rear sights. Sent it to Ruger. They refused to repair it except for rebarreling it. They made me a very reasonable price.
The original barrel lacked the barrel mounted sling swivel. New barrel has it. So I have now for practical purposes a MkII African, instead of just a "Hawkeye". It only had a 1/2" rubber pad, I fitted a 1" Pachmayer "Old English" Decelerator brown recoil pad, after cutting 3/4" off the stock. It fits me like a glove, and really softens it's "kisses"...
I bought 2 boxes of ammo on clearance at a big box store for $20 each (Hornady 270gr Spt), and 100 cases.
I've worked up a variety of loads with bullets I've scrounged from numerous flea markets, gun shop clearances. Even found a bag of almost 200 Sierra 250gr GK for $25!!!
I've killed two deer with it. One with 235gr Speer, one with 250gr Sierra. Both using an accurate load with RL15, more or less at H&H speeds. About like using an '06 with 180's, except for the "divots", er, uh "TRENCHES" in the dirt behind them...
The 23" rifle gives about 100fps slower than Hornady claims, but handloads match the manuals. Accuracy is very, very good...
I have a Lee 255gr mold, but not crazy about it. It's for a straight case, 38-55, the Ruger needs a bore-rider style 270gr IMO. But, with 10gr of Unique, it's a fun plinker...
My .375 is the Ruger. It's got a curious history. It belonged to a physician from Columbus, Ga. He took it to Africa and reputedly killed a variety of plains game with it. At some point, the rear sight was damaged or removed and the screw holes WELDED! over.
I bought the rifle cheap. It shot well, but I wanted the original rear sights. Sent it to Ruger. They refused to repair it except for rebarreling it. They made me a very reasonable price.
The original barrel lacked the barrel mounted sling swivel. New barrel has it. So I have now for practical purposes a MkII African, instead of just a "Hawkeye". It only had a 1/2" rubber pad, I fitted a 1" Pachmayer "Old English" Decelerator brown recoil pad, after cutting 3/4" off the stock. It fits me like a glove, and really softens it's "kisses"...
I bought 2 boxes of ammo on clearance at a big box store for $20 each (Hornady 270gr Spt), and 100 cases.
I've worked up a variety of loads with bullets I've scrounged from numerous flea markets, gun shop clearances. Even found a bag of almost 200 Sierra 250gr GK for $25!!!
I've killed two deer with it. One with 235gr Speer, one with 250gr Sierra. Both using an accurate load with RL15, more or less at H&H speeds. About like using an '06 with 180's, except for the "divots", er, uh "TRENCHES" in the dirt behind them...
The 23" rifle gives about 100fps slower than Hornady claims, but handloads match the manuals. Accuracy is very, very good...
I have a Lee 255gr mold, but not crazy about it. It's for a straight case, 38-55, the Ruger needs a bore-rider style 270gr IMO. But, with 10gr of Unique, it's a fun plinker...
Last edited:
Very cool rifle, neat history, and that its now a semi custom!
I like the new Ruger rifles, ive had an American, and a new Hawkeye, and both were solid accurate guns. If i was buying an off the shelf .375 Ruger it would be a Hawkeye.
I like the new Ruger rifles, ive had an American, and a new Hawkeye, and both were solid accurate guns. If i was buying an off the shelf .375 Ruger it would be a Hawkeye.
54Hawkin
Member
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2017
- Messages
- 25
There has been a consighnment 1917 at my lgs, at least I thought it was one. Originally it said it was a 3006, then last time I checked by it said 303 brit. Its in a military stock, cut to 24". thye want $300 for it I could get them down to 200 I think. If its a 1914 eddystone are they as strong? I know they are a 2 lug mauser action, originally designed for the 276 enfield.
adcoch1
Member
Go buy it! That action is amazing, and for two hundred its a steal! The eddystones are just made in a different building from the Remington's, but the same everything. That is what I will use when I get around to an H&H build. Had several of them in 30-06 and 300 wm
Im not familiar enough about the difference between a p14 and a 1917 to really know, but ive always thought they were basically the same besides bolt face, and magazine parts. If so they are extremely robust and well suited to larger rounds.
adcoch1
Member
Bolt face, magazine, and the sight is calibrated for the two different cartridges. I believe you can even put a 1917 bolt in a 1914 if you swap the barrels. There one of the most overbuilt bolt guns I've ever seen, and a 375 H&H would be pleasant to shoot in that action if stocked correctly. You should really do that one. My $0.02
- Status
