Any way to tighten an aluminum slide on a zinc frame - semi auto pistol

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rpenmanparker

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Folks, I have a GSG .22 semi-auto, zinc pistol frame upgraded with a CWA pro model aluminum slide. It is beautiful and works great, but the slide to frame fit is very sloppy. Chet at CWA told me he has to make the slides oversized to guarantee they will fit the whole range of GSG frames that he sees. The barrel to side fit is excellent, very snug, so the accuracy of the gun is quite decent, but I can tell it is just not as good as it should be. Also the slop is very disconcerting. When I shift the gun around, I can feel the slide moving on the frame. When I pushed the frame to one side and the slide to the other, I measured 0.037" lateral space between them. That is huge and is not even counting the vertical slop.

I want to get the slide tightened up, but can't find anyone to take on the job. Being aluminum, the slide is likely too brittle to squeeze it tight on the frame without cracking it. And for sure the zinc is too brittle to mess with. And I suspect any kind of welding metal into the slide grooves and recutting them to the right size would be prohibitively expensive if even possible. Any work on the zinc frame seems to be likewise out of the question as that metal is even less forgiving than aluminum.

Recently I had a .45 ACP 1911 slide fully Cerakoted. It was pretty tight before the coating, but it came back really snug but still fully operable. The gun is now incredibly accurate IIDMP (if I do my part :)). I was thinking Cerakoting might help the .22, but when I looked up the specs on Cerakoting, I found the coating thickness to be only about 0.001". Even if I had two coats put on, I would still only take up less than 1/4 of the slop. I'm figuring 0.002" thickness on each contact surface on both sides of the slide, so 4 X 0.002" = 0.008". I don't think that would help.

Any one have any ideas? Any gunsmiths out there who might have experience with this kind of job? Anyone know of a coating approach that might work? Another question: might warming (heating) the slide make it ductile enough to survive a squeezing process to tighten it up?

Photo of the slide below.

Any help would be appreciated. If you have any ideas and are a reputable gunsmith, I would be glad to have you do the work, pricing within reason, of course.

Thanks.

Slide.jpg
 
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Try Duracoat SL. It is "slicker" than regular Duracoat or Creakote and can be applied repeatedly for more build-up. As soon as the previous coat has flashed off and is no longer tacky, another can be applied.
 
Try Duracoat SL. It is "slicker" than regular Duracoat or Creakote and can be applied repeatedly for more build-up. As soon as the previous coat has flashed off and is no longer tacky, another can be applied.
Thanks for that. Is Duracoat something I can get a pro to apply for me?
 
I did Duracoat with a Harbor Freight air brush successfully for years. The paint is available directly from Lauer Weaponry, the manufacturer. They will sell you as little as 4 oz, which would be plenty but the freight would cost more than the paint. If you have a local applicator, he might include some SL with his next order or shoot it for you cheaply since you would not be doing the whole gun.
If you do it yourself, play close attention to surface prep and degreasing. I always grit blast but a light sanding with 120 grit paper will leave the surface rough enough for the initial coat to stick. Degrease with brake cleaner followed by acetone.
 
Sure, I understand, but spray painting is really not my thing, and I have none of the equipment. For a one time thing I would just as soon have it done professionally. If anyone knows of an applicator that works with Duracoat, please let me know.
 
Another question: might warming (heating) the slide make it ductile enough to survive a squeezing process to tighten it up?

View attachment 860542

It would have to be heated beyond it's temper, thus ruining the temper. You'd lose 70% of the material strength.

Post some photos of the frame. I suspect the only (potentially) practical approach would be to machine away parts of the frame and replace them with hardened steel inserts.
 
Sure, I understand, but spray painting is really not my thing, and I have none of the equipment. For a one time thing I would just as soon have it done professionally. If anyone knows of an applicator that works with Duracoat, please let me know.
The man who markets DuraCoat, Steve Lauer, would be the best choice. He's been doing it the longest, and invented DuraCoat.

Worth a shot, but I agree with Mach IV.
 
I have an older Beretta .22 LR semi, and after several hundred rounds it loosened up and accuracy declined. Aluminum slide on aluminum frame. I accepted the reality, and now it mostly sits in the safe, occasionally waiting for a new shooter to be trained on. Reality is what it is. Can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear.
 
Would it be possible to cut a piece of the correct thickness sheet metal to the proper dimensions and somehow glue it to the slide or frame rails?

.015" if doing both sides or perhaps .030" if just one side would work and maybe be easier to fabricate.
 
There used to be a smith who milled slides and frames(of 1911's) where he installed small rods into the reliefs he had cut to tighten things up. The rods were the wear pieces and were replaceable. I don't know if this would work or even if the process is still being used.

ETA - I remembered the name. It's Acc-u-rail but it looks like it is 1911 only.
 
I don't know how well or for how long a layer of Duracoat would tighten the fit. But the prices charged for specialist application of coatings have gotten high enough that you would be better off to use the money as a down payment on a nicer pistol.
 
.037” isn’t a lot, until you start thinking about building it up with some sort of coating. I wouldn’t hold my breath on that working well at all.

You might be able to do something similar to acc-u-rails.

http://acc-u-rail.com/

629CCF4F-BC58-41A9-BC01-FD3A88E53EDE.jpeg 207533E3-5325-4766-B16E-DD83691DAA68.jpeg
 
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