Accuracy issues in my snub- maybe the crown?

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sequins

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Hello friends,

I have a rather inaccurate snub and I suspect a mechanical issue.

For reference I'm shooting 7 yards rested and getting really bad groups, at least 8" groups from a rested bench position, and my LCP can do 2" from the same position so I doubt it's just the sight radius introducing shooter error.

I'm shooting 38spl wadcutters and not seeing any keyholing, and they are very accurate in my GP100, so I dont think its ammo either.

Crown seems like the culprit at this point so that's what I'm seeing to measure.

How do I check that objectively though? I've tried the q-tip test but it didn't seem very precise or informative. Is there an authoritative way to gauge for damage?

And perhaps theres another possible fault I should consider?
 
I'd fire 3-5 different known ammos of at least two cylinders each before I'd damn the gun or crown behind a single ammo.... ESPECIALLY wadcutters.

I love them in the guns that they work best in but I've had some otherwise wonderful revolvers in which they shoot poorly.

I put it casually and generally (amateur physicists - back the hell off, I'm generalizing here:evil:) down to the travel distance wadcutters must cover before being axially oriented at the forcing cone and initiation of the rifling.

Todd.
 
It's a SP101. I stored it improperly at one time and loose metal had the opportunity to bang into it, the frame is a bit scratched and that's why I'm eyeing crown damage as a possibility.
 
I would say you need to shoot any other bullet type if you're shooting .38spl brass. The additional distance the bullet has to travel is probably giving the projectile a chance to hit the cylinder throat a little off and killing accuracy.
 
what specific ammo are you shooting? factory or handloads? which brand?

Try some jacketed bullets.
 
Are the wadcutters factory or handloads? I’ve had handloads that shot completely different (horribly) in a snub compared to a 4 inch barrel.
 
Can you see damage? Any imperfections large enough to cause accuracy issues would be visible.

What he said ^^^^

Try different ammo. Try several.
I have 3 J frame revolvers. All 3 like different ammo...luckily they all shoot American Gunner well, but in regards to other ammo it’s touch and go. My model 60 Pro has large groups at 10 yards with Hornady Critical Defense. They would probably measure 8”. I lives Federal Hydra-Shok. Zeros right in.
Try some other ammo then re-evaluate things.
 
Looks fine to me
I guess I'm trying more ammo. I did bad with 180, 148, and 158gn hand loads but I'll go buy a box of factory and see if it's me. I have one box of LRN 158s but I'll try some FMJs. Maybe it's me after all.
 
Is there any chance it’s out of time? Chambers not aligned with the barrel? Is it a brand new gun or used?
 
Is there any chance it’s out of time? Chambers not aligned with the barrel? Is it a brand new gun or used?

That's a good thought to check also- it's not a new gun, no, I've had it several years and tossed it in my truck in a tool box and definitely marred the finish from rattling around so that's why I suspected the crown. Accuracy was about twice what I'm getting now at one point.

I'm happy to think the problem is me just being a bad shot and not mechanical, I was just getting nervous because of how I stored it and wondering if I'd created a "real" problem. I only shot FMJ previously (got it and forgot it before I started reloading) so maybe my cylinders are a bit tight and it's not liking my lead loads, or maybe it's just me. I'm gonna shoot some FMJ 38 and 357 to see if that improves things.
 
I think your crown would have to be pretty jacked up to be that far off. This is the crown on my wife's 2.5 inch snubbie 357 GP100. You can see the 2 deep cuts on the right side of the crown( when pointing at a target). We were going to send it in, but it shoots so damn good, I'm afraid it will come back worse. 20200203_192430.jpg
 
If it’s always shot poorly I think it’s Ruger-sized charge holes shrinking bullets down before the bullet hits the forcing cone. The bullets may “rattle” a bit heading down the bore if they’re too small in diameter after being squeezed by tight chamber mouths. Pin gauge the holes to check the size, if they’re too small you can pay a gunsmith to open them up a touch.

If it shot well before it spent time amongst the Craftsman hammers and wrenches, you’ve knocked it out of time and the bullet is hitting the forcing cone at an odd angle every shot. (If it spits lead that’s a good sign that’s probably the issue.) You may have bent the crane as well. If that’s the case, send it to Ruger for repair.

The crown looks fine, I have some older guns that look much worse than that.

Stay safe.
 
Try shooting the firearm from a bench rest with the gun set into sandbags before passing judgement on its accuracy.

Later I did note you had said you used a a bench and rest position. My
apologies.
 
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