The Forster works almost like my discontinued Lyman unit i use. For $50 it would be a good buy & a useful tool. imo.
I do turn 100 % of the necks of 223 & 243. I see no good reason to turn only the high spotts off. The case walls need to be no smaller then .010" thick. With a minimum cut, i remove just a hair more then .001" Never getting close to the minimum.
Yes, the neck will have more clearance/slop in the chamber, after turning. This is where a bushing die is usefull. Sizing only 1/2 of the neck allows the unsized part of the neck to expand to the chamber. Centering the round after about 3 firings. Better accuracy in my Rem 40XB 243 win.
My 223 brass is turned and loaded using standard RCBS fl dies for a Savage Axis. Accurcy seems to remain the same between turned and unturned.
But the greatest advantage is an increase in case life. No more split neck or cracked neck separations. The expander is a lot easier to pull thru the sized necks.
Many 5.56/223 brass , even when new, will have a donut. A donut being a thicker wall diameter right at the neck/shoulder junction. See photos in my album. Outside turning removes this problem. Greatly increasing case life of Benchrest Preped brass.
The cutter on K&M types may be more usefull. The cutters can be designed to cut into the shoulder. Great after forming a wildcat cartriage & maybe a blown out AI .
My guess, no experence with cutting into a shoulder. The Lyman needs to stop at the neck/shoulder junction. To deep a cut will cause separations on the shoulder.
I believe the Forster works the same way.
Inside neck reaming - Should only be done when neck is held in a die while reaming. Imo. But if there is a LOT of brass to remove, inside neck ream first, leaving enough wall thickness to finish by outside neck turning.
*Inside reaming has a tendency to rough up the hole being reamed*