Percussion caps source

Yes...but they might be a hair too short and the hammer may not be making enough contact. On one of my guns i had to put a "spacer"...i used a wire ring made from a small safety pin. Its about .020 thick wire but it was enough to make the difference.

They work just fine for me on a 2019 1858 pietta chambered in .36 1075+ and cci # 11 & 11 magnum. Are you using holy black?

Mine is a brand new 1858. I didn't load any power at all. I just wanted to see if these nipples would work. I will mess with them tomorrow some more.

Pocket said:

Mine is a brand new 1858. I didn't load any power at all. I just wanted to see if these nipples would work. I will mess with them tomorrow some more.

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Just back one of the nips out a half turn and try again, no bang, maybe another half turn.
If that works make up some spacer washers

I am gonna look for some small washers today and see if that works.

O-rings could work as temporary shims, and are sold at home improvement stores.
Here's a Danco #5 that should fit.--->>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-5-O-Ring-10-Pack-96722/100245761
Or wrap some wire around the nipple base and then flatten it with a hammer if needed.

arcticap said:

O-rings could work as temporary shims, and are sold at home improvement stores.
Here's a Danco #5 that should fit.--->>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-5-O-Ring-10-Pack-96722/100245761
Or wrap some wire around the nipple base and then flatten it with a hammer if needed.

Click to expand...

JMHO, but o rings are a bad idea.
O rings move the sealing face of the nipple away from it's mating flange on the cylinder. pressure can work it's way through the threads and blow out the o ring.

Captain*kirk said:

JMHO, but o rings are a bad idea.
O rings move the sealing face of the nipple away from it's mating flange on the cylinder. pressure can work it's way through the threads and blow out the o ring.

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I'm not sure because I haven't tried it.
These are very thin 1/16" thick O-rings that can be compressed considerably.
And it's a cheap method to try to see if the Uncle Mikes nipples could work.
O-rings have been used as shims for 209 primers in inlines, but admittedly that's different even though the amount of pressure of a full powder charge of an inline is considerably greater than a revolver. --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/remington-209-primer-fouling.580868/#post-7192812
Have you ever tried O-rings to shim revolver nipples?
One would think that any shim that wasn't perfectly sized would expose the threads a little bit.
O-rings are used as gas seals for air conditioning and for fuel injectors among other uses.
I thought that they might be worth a try and would probably try them myself if they were handy.
The nipple threads can also be somewhat sealed from gas seepage by applying anti-seize to the threads.
I would think that the amount of gas seepage would be miniscule.
But there is a lot of exterior heat being released from the nipples during firing that might cause them to deteriorate.

Brass or other metal washers would probably be much better if Pocket can find or shape them to be the right size and perfect fit.
Hopefully he will and they will work to solve the problem.
In the meantime, trying O-rings probably wouldn't hurt anything, except that they would be a temporary fix and become a disposable item needing replacement.

I think 1/16th is way too large...i use about a .020 wire to extend the nipple height. It made all the difference and it was about the same difference between the old stock nipple on there before that worked. I just made a ring that fit around the nipple and used it as a spacer....shot 25 grains OE and had no issues as theres quite a bit of threading on the nipple left over keeping the seal. Not the first time ive done this as ive done this with 2 to 3 washers made from .005 sheet aluminum and brass that i had cut out using a punch. I did this because the previous owner had shaved down the face of the hammer to keep it from overly beating his stock nipple tips...which is why the hammer barely hit the nipple causing misfires as he had shaved the hammer face too short.

TheOutlawKid said:

I think 1/16th is way too large...i use about a .020 wire to extend the nipple height. It made all the difference and it was about the same difference between the old stock nipple on there before that worked. I just made a ring that fit around the nipple and used it as a spacer....shot 25 grains OE and had no issues as theres quite a bit of threading on the nipple left over keeping the seal. Not the first time ive done this as ive done this with 2 to 3 washers made from .005 sheet aluminum and brass that i had cut out using a punch. I did this because the previous owner had shaved down the face of the hammer to keep it from overly beating his stock nipple tips...which is why the hammer barely hit the nipple causing misfires as he had shaved the hammer face too short.

Click to expand...

You may be right, but it needs to be looked at in terms of math compared to the washers that Pocket ended up buying which we don't know how thin they are or will be thinned down to being in the end.
The 1/16" neoprene O-ring will compress.
If it compresses in half that leaves 1/32" which equals .031".
Compressing it to 1/3 of its height leaves 1/48" which equals .020".
Compressing it to 1/4 of its height leaves 1/64" which equals .015".
To put that into perspective, a new Dollar bill has a thickness of .0043".
That means that 3 Dollar bills have a thickness of .0129", close to 1/4 of the thickess of an O-ring.
I doubt that Pocket bought brass washers that are thinner than the thickness of 3 Dollar bills and I'm not sure that they need to be as thin as that either.
Do you see my point?

There's many O-rings to choose from which some can be thinner.
I only chose one that was easy to find and seemed to fit the task, and the store sells many more sizes.
Just consider it as an example of how an O-ring can work.
And the height of an O-ring can be adjusted somewhat easier than a brass washer can be without needing to work on it.

I don't know why the Uncle Mikes nipples didn't work on his new Pietta.
It's a shame that they need to be shimmed at all.
Pocket didn't tell us if the nipples worked after they were backed out a turn or more or not, so we don't know how much that they actually need to be shimmed.

I havent tried backing them out... I am just disappointed that the have to be J
Jerry rigged in the first place.. I will post later today if the washers work.

Articap makes some good points and gave some good advice about loosening the nipples a turn or more to make them taller. Thats the test i did to see how much i had to raise the nipples. I only had to raise them about 3/4 of a turn....so not by much. Another gun had to be back out about a full turn and a quarter. Never tried using o rings though.

TheOutlawKid said:

Never tried using o rings though.

Click to expand...

Those specific O-rings that I listed may indeed be too thick because the material may not compress as much as I thought.
For example, soft Buna-N O-rings will compress more than other materials.

But if we could find the correct size O-ring it might save some folks the hassle of making metal washers fit short nipples well enough to use as shims.
Of course there may be better metal shims that I haven't tried to research.
I did find a NY company that makes O-rings in some ultra-thin sizes and in different materials.
The ones with slightly smaller inner diameters can be easily stretched to fit.

Home: https://www.applerubber.com

Remember the 1st O-rings from Home Depot were 1/16" which equals 0.0625"
The ones below are much thinner to begin with and wouldn't need to be compressed as much.
I read that O-ring compression of 40% should not be a problem.
1/32" = .03125"
1/48" = .02083"

I.D. -----W. --->>> https://www.applerubber.com/products/o-rings/
0.240 x 0.018 --->>> This and the next may be 2 of the 3 best options.
0.240 x 0.020
0.242 x 0.031
0.242 x 0.037
0.244 x 0.020
0.244 x 0.039
0.248 x 0.020 --->>> This one may work and fit fine, perhaps the best all around.
0.248 x 0.028
0.250 x 0.032
0.250 x 0.035

There's more sizes available from that manufacturer.

Update:

All was not lost.... well I didn't have the patience today with the washers. So I got out my 44/1851.
No spacers, washer or o-rings needed.
I shot 12 rounds with the Uncle Mike's, 30gr Goex and Rem #10. They worked perfectly !!!! No jams ( But I have a rake on it also)
After a disappointing first impression, at least they are keepers for something I had.


Here is the differences that I see.

SLIX Shot


Uncle Mike's

TheOutlawKid said:

Yes...but they might be a hair too short and the hammer may not be making enough contact. On one of my guns i had to put a "spacer"...i used a wire ring made from a small safety pin. Its about .020 thick wire but it was enough to make the difference.

Click to expand...

I think this is the way t go. Geta drill a bit bigger than the threads on the nipple use it as a mandrel bend the wire tight around it and clip the ends. I used to do this to make gaskets for Yugo SKSs to fix gas leaks between the gas block and gas tube worked like a charm.

So many great ideas here guys. Thanks for everyone staying so vigilant on this issue. Im also happy pocket at least was able to use the uncle mikes on his 1851.

Funny how .004 made such a difference...but it definately does.

Woops i didnt see that mr.malachi gave great advice earlier in the thread about backing up the nipples by partial turns. Thats the best way to see if its nipple height causing misfires. Great advice Malachi

TheOutlawKid said:

Funny how .004 made such a difference...but it definately does.

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That's the difference in overall length but not necessarily the difference in cone height.
There's different parts of the nipple, the threads, the midsection and the cone.
There's the threaded portion or stem, and the part above the threaded portion, beginning at the flat base of the midsection.
While the entire nipple may have a difference of .004 overall, the disparity of cone height verses the original nipples may be more or less.

And I qualify by saying the original nipples because some folks believe that Slixshots "may" have slightly taller cones than some original nipples.

I am happy now, that they work on the 1851 / 44. This weekend I will try them on the 1851/ 36 Navy.

arcticap said:

That's the difference in overall length but not necessarily the difference in cone height.
There's different parts of the nipple, the threads, the midsection and the cone.
There's the threaded portion or stem, and the part above the threaded portion, beginning at the flat base of the midsection.
While the entire nipple may have a difference of .004 overall, the disparity of cone height verses the original nipples may be more or less.

And I qualify by saying the original nipples because some folks believe that Slixshots "may" have slightly taller cones than some original nipples.

Click to expand...

Yeah its always best to take the measurements from the end of the threads and up to the tip of the nipple/cone. This will tell you the height that is sticking outside of the cylinder.

I still have around 4300 Remington #10 caps left of my 5000pc order.

Y'all might give these guys a call and ask when the Remington #10's are going back in stock. AKA put a little pressure on them...

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0005022617/-number-10-percussion-cap-(5000-count)

Got lucky and found a few at the local gun store. $5.99 a pack. That’s about the average for California

I was shooting a few of my 1075 plus , cci 11 & cci11 magnum comparing them to my remington 10's and let me tell you something brother those 1075 plus are beasts. You can feel the difference the damn lead flys out like..... Well like a damn magnum load The cci 11 magnums have some oomph to them as well but nothing like the 1075 plus.

After only one range session with my new Pietta '51 Navy I have ordered a set of SS nips from TotW. The stock units work ok-ish with CCI #10s, they don't blow into pieces but often need manual help to depart the gun. I'm going to get some CCI #11s (CCI #10 and #11 are the only 2 types I have verified are locally available) for the new cones. Is there a big difference between standard and magnum CCI #11s?

Wil