Ransom rest rabbit hole

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jmorris

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I have owned a ransom rest for about a month and in my testing, even with low SD's I was getting different amounts of muzzle rise on different shots. After looking over the machine and seeing places I thought could be improved, I began moving metal around yesterday.

Its machined vs cast because I am only making one and I tightened the wrist pin tolerance from .002 to .0004. I am going to use an inner needle thrust bearing vs the felt and make a shim that goes on the outside of that for the friction material. I am also going to incorporate windage adjustment into the base vs making it an extra part.

Still have a ways to go but I knocked out the precision machining and studs.

20201101_181232.jpg 20201101_181044.jpg 20201101_181059.jpg
 
At least its not a prairie dog hole like my bullet feeders became......a complicated maze.... I was wondering what your next focus was....you've been relatively quiet lately.;)
Interesting stuff.....and here I thought Ransom Rests were same point accurate.....

What does a Ransom cost now days? So, as is, are they not worth the money?
 
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Nice work! I'm jealous of the machine shop as well!!!

As am I. I Pa I had use of a high precision South Bend finishing lathe and an old Bridgeport mill at my disposal and I had to leave them behind when I move to NC. I'm still crying over that one.
I have nothing now for machining tools. You have no idea how much I miss them. To me they were as natural to have as a table saw or a drill press.
Looking back, I should have bought them and paid to have them shipped down here to NC. I feel like a fish out of water now.

I'm sure your rendition of the Ransom Rest will be better than anything Ransom produces because of your skills and the fact that your not trying to make a living selling them.
 
How much difference?

Of course it is load dependent but for two rounds that only had a 2 fps difference between them there was a 1/4” difference in ending muzzle position.

Lots of variables involved and none are going to really change anything for me as I know what loads I have are accurate and what ones will do the job at very low cost. It’s more of a learning experience and just trying to build a better mouse trap, so to speak.

For me I think I will learn more when my shore 80A polyurethane gets here and I start making other grip molds.
 
Just an FYI, the MantisX 10 has a recoilmeter as part of the app. It displays recovery time, muzzle rise, recoil width, and recoil angle in the app.
 
For me I think I will learn more when my shore 80A polyurethane gets here and I start making other grip molds.

Back when my club had a Ransom Rest on long term loan from a member, my FLG had the idea of picking an accurized 1911 and making glass bedded aluminum inserts to fit it and it only for ammo testing. Never got 'round tuit and the new range does not have a Ransom emplacement.
 
This looks an interesting project JM. I did a fair bit of work with a Ransom rest back in the 80's testing loads with various good quality target pistols, mostly shooting .32 S&W Long full wadcutters through Walther, Hammerli, Pardini, FAS, Unique type pistols - some of these pistols, with only about 4-5" barrels shot extremely tight groups consistenly at 25 yards.
 
Of course it is load dependent but for two rounds that only had a 2 fps difference between them there was a 1/4” difference in ending muzzle position.

Lots of variables involved and none are going to really change anything for me as I know what loads I have are accurate and what ones will do the job at very low cost. It’s more of a learning experience and just trying to build a better mouse trap, so to speak.

For me I think I will learn more when my shore 80A polyurethane gets here and I start making other grip molds.

I look forwards to seeing your grip forming process with the polyurethane, I hope you will post some pics of the process!

Just a thought... Do you think that the recoil force is changing shot to shot or do you think that the coefficient of static friction of your pivot is not very repeatable? I am going to venture a guess that the coefficient of static friction of the pivot is not staying uniform from shot to shot which is causing the 1/4" variance for only a 2fps change. I purpose that you might want to consider tweaking your design a bit and instead of relying on the static/kinetic friction of the pivot joint to provide the recoil measurement reading that you use a more linear force to counteract and measure the recoil force.
My first thought is to employ a spring and a maximum deflection pointer like a manual trigger pull gauge. Hooks law for determining a "springs constant" (http://labman.phys.utk.edu/phys221core/modules/m3/Hooke's law.html#:~:text=F = -kx.,direction towards its equilibrium position.) which would allow for more repeatable measurements.
A second idea is to use a large counter balance weight mounted below the pivot in a pendulum format to counter act the recoil force and use the same maximum deflection pointer again like a trigger pull scale. Both of these ideas are just derivations of common scales used to measure the force of gravity acting on an object (i.e. weight of an item).

Just a thought to spur some thinking, I know this isn't needed but you seem interested in the experimentation aspect of this project and the challenge of building your own better mouse trap so I thought it might be worth mentioning.

P.S. You could also measure the recoil force in real life meaningful units (ft-lbs or Nm [newton meters]) with a very simple ballistic pendulum setup and very basic math. By using a common unit of measurement you can actually compare your results to those of others. I would be more than happy to explain and provide references to the physics and math if you are interested?
 
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P.S. You could also measure the recoil force in real life meaningful units (ft-lbs or Nm [newton meters]) with a very simple ballistic pendulum setup and very basic math. By using a common unit of measurement you can actually compare your results to those of others. I would be more than happy to explain and provide references to the physics and math if you are interested?

It's easy enough to measure recoil force with just knowing the bullet weight, bullet speed, powder charge weight, and some value for gun weight.

A Ransom Rest has been used to measure relative recoil, and rocker arm movement does a decent job reflecting calculated recoil.

https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/measure-relative-handgun-recoil/99442
 
It's easy enough to measure recoil force with just knowing the bullet weight, bullet speed, powder charge weight, and some value for gun weight.

A Ransom Rest has been used to measure relative recoil, and rocker arm movement does a decent job reflecting calculated recoil.

https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/measure-relative-handgun-recoil/99442

There are a LOT of ways to accomplish any particular task. Some of us don't mind a bit more round about approach in the interest of learning something along the way. Mounting a handgun on a ballistic pendulum and recording different weight bullets with a high speed camera might be very enlightening for differentiating between recoil force and recoil impulse period (speed).

Nothing wrong with working it out using the bullet weight and bullet speed though.
 
I like the pendulum idea. Two stand off's and it could hang down over the side.

I am still waiting on a couple parts I didn't have or at least couldn't find :) but I think I can do some side by side testing this weekend.

It is getting closer and I still have a little time to tinker.

I didn't like the wobble in the RR trigger linkage so I took it out by eliminatingthe spring and using a shoulder bolt against the stud to eliminate any motion other than rotational.

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Do you have a way to check that your not getting any movement/slipping in the grip? I would think that would be one of the weakest points and most likely a change in accuracy, POI shift.

One can measure the gun's position at some stage early in the session, then check it over time. If properly settled, the guns won't move. Steel framed guns can usually be held very tight. Some polymer framed guns can't be held too tight because the frame flexes and the magazine won't be able to be inserted/removed. But, as noted, if properly settled, the guns won't move.
 
FLG and I tested that.
A good tight 1911, good ammo (a brand of SWC no longer made) and the gun laid for each shot with a scope sight in V blocks on top of the slide. Groups were smaller than by depending on the Ransom Rest to return exactly to battery.
 
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