Polymer 80 woes

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JussRight

JussRight

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May 21, 2020
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Vancouver Washington
Its been a month now since I received this pistol. I have replaced the rear rail module and the front locking block. Those 2 modifications allowed me to actually install my slide properly. After that fix I discovered a new problem. My trigger did not reset when I racked the slide. I searched YoutTube and found 2 videos that helped me to improve the slide problem 1) sanding down the front side of my rear rail module behind the trigger bar 2) bending my connector bar a little outward so it does not rub. Those 2 fixes improved it quite a bit.

But now my trigger does not reset from an open slide. When I have a mag in it and the slide is open and I hit the slide release,...the trigger does not reset. It will reset if I push down on the slide when I hit the slide release button...but only if I push down on the slide with my other hand.

I searched the forums here and did not find my exact issue, so i started this thread.

20201108_185649_copy_756x1008.jpg 20201108_185649_copy_756x1008.jpg 20201108_185649_copy_756x1008.jpg
 
Several bend sessions later...still no go. This is aggravating. Maybe I should by a glock factory connector?


I have a Glock Store Pyramid whole trigger system coming. But it will take 2-3 weeks.
 
OEM parts are always preferred for proper function. I have seen quite a few aftermarket connectors that are too wide and bind up in the slot on the trigger housing.
 
12Bravo20 said:
OEM parts are always preferred for proper function. I have seen quite a few aftermarket connectors that are too wide and bind up in the slot on the trigger housing.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what happened to the Ghost 3.5lbs trigger connector that I bought for it. It was completely useless. However the Apex connector I bought for my G29 slipped right in and works flawlessly. I did order a Apex 3.5lbs connector for my polymer 80 g19. I hope it fixes the issue.
 
Update, I received a email from polymer 80...

I will have a replacement Rear Rail Module, Trigger Bar and Connector sent to you as soon as possible. You will receive an email with a tracking number when shipped. There will be a shipping label included for you to return the original part(s).

Hopefully, these parts will make a difference.
Click to expand...

Polymer 80 has been very responsive to my requests for help. With this latest parts replacement from them I will have replaced 75% of the internals from this build kit. Seems like they have lots of problems with their internal components. Almost like they are making these kits as fast as they can just to fill orders and not QC'ing them like they should
 
There's nothing to it but replacing the parts until it works. In a Glock design, the reset motion is sideways, and the parts are linked together through the rear rails. So, don't bend anything. Letting slide move just a little higher will let the tab on the connector to miss the slide and thus not reset.

Personally, I never had any trouble with P80 lower, but I always used Glock OEM parts that I bought piecemeal (except the rear rails that have no equivalent in the original Glock, of course). Whenever I had trouble, it was compatibility between aftermarket parts, such as APEX extractor versus Brownells slide -- either part works great by itself in an otherwise stock Glock, but not together.

Keep in mind that it may be impossible to tell what's wrong with calipers. I have a Vickers slide stop that's unreliable. I measured it in every possible way and it's exactly like the OEM part. Make sure to either mark your parts or religiously store them in marked containers, never on the workbench.
 
I've had no issues with the P80, but I've helped troubleshoot a few with issues before. When I'm trying to find an issue I use all Glock internals, assemble it and then check the function. There are so many non-factory parts / pieces that will fit in a Glock platform, but may not work in Glock-clone frames.

Overall, if you don't have access to factory Glock internals, the troubleshooting is going to be difficult and frustrating, but zaitcev is right that you're better off replacing the parts until it works. If you start modifying parts you may need to use in the future, it could cause more troubleshooting time and more frustration.

It will work eventually if you keep at it; then you can refine it to make it consistently reliable.

Best of luck!
 
What causes the issues is tolerance stacking which effects Glocks when using aftermarket parts but effects the Polymer 80 frames even more. Glock designed their pistols for a loose fit for function. A lot of aftermarket manufacturers make their parts for a tight fit trying to improve accuracy, just like in the 1911 world. Tightening up the tolerances trying to improve accuracy usually reduces reliability to some extent. I always try to use OEM Glock parts or if I can't get them I get the parts kits from places like Rockey Brass.

I have built 7 so far and the only one that I have actually had to mess with has been the G19 clone that is using an aftermarket G23 barrel from one manufacturer with a 40 to 9 conversion barrel from another aftermarket manufacturer. On that one all of the internals are Glock OEM. The problem is BTF when using 9mm ejectors. Nothing that effect function but is aggravating.
 
Thanks fells for the helpful information. I will keep updating this thread. As it stands now my replacement parts will be delivered on Monday. Ill check in on Tue
 
Well, they sent me a trigger connector bar without the shoe. I dont know how to remove my old shoe and install it without destroying it? Youtube videos only show Glock removal and Glock trigger shoes have a pin. Mine has a depression on one side but no pin or depression on the other side so I have not installed the new trigger bar they sent me. I di install the connector bar they sent and all of my problems are solved except one....the trigger does not reset with a empty mag in it from the slide release. The trigger is dead...the trigger shoe moves into position but the trigger has not reset internally in order to release the firing pin.

Polymer 80 sent me a email saying that my problem doesn't make any sense since the magazine has nothing to do with trigger reset....thats what they said today

My slide works perfectly on my buddys polymer lower and his slide works perfectly on my lower

My lower works perfectly with his slide and vice a versa.

My lower and slide together always results in a dead trigger with a empty mag. However without a mag in the combo resets the trigger every time

Freakin weird stuff here

any help is greatly appreciated
 
JussRight said:
Well, they sent me a trigger connector bar without the shoe. I dont know how to remove my old shoe and install it without destroying it? Youtube videos only show Glock removal and Glock trigger shoes have a pin. Mine has a depression on one side but no pin or depression on the other side so I have not installed the new trigger bar they sent me. I di install the connector bar they sent and all of my problems are solved except one....the trigger does not reset with a empty mag in it from the slide release. The trigger is dead...the trigger shoe moves into position but the trigger has not reset internally in order to release the firing pin.

Polymer 80 sent me a email saying that my problem doesn't make any sense since the magazine has nothing to do with trigger reset....thats what they said today

My slide works perfectly on my buddys polymer lower and his slide works perfectly on my lower

My lower works perfectly with his slide and vice a versa.

My lower and slide together always results in a dead trigger with a empty mag. However without a mag in the combo resets the trigger every time

Freakin weird stuff here

any help is greatly appreciated
Click to expand...
Do you have an armorer's slide plate? See what's going on, cut to the chase.

Larry
 
The Ghost Rocket connector needs fitting. There is an overtravel tab you file to fit.
 
OK, I just bought the armorers plate. I am not sure as to how to use it.

I guess I can google it...LOL!

Wow! This forum is just awesome! I cant tell you how many times you guys have pulled my bacon strips out of the fire. A very valuable resource..


I think it funny how Lenny's voice always sounds like an over accentuated TV personality. He has lots of good vids!
 
Last edited:
12Bravo20 said:
Lenny does a good job describing how the armorer's plate is used and also how the engagement should look.
Click to expand...

I agree, hes very descriptive and helpful. Lotsa a vids. Just asking how much does it cost to become a "Glock Armorer? How many classes would some one need to take? Does anyone know?
 
The Glock Armorer's course is an 8 hour class and costs $250.
The Glock Advanced Armorer's course is 2.5 day and cost $400

There are restrictions on who can take the classes.
Armorer's course restrictions- To be eligible to take the Armorers Course you must be an active/retired law enforcement or military officer, private security, GLOCK Stocking Dealer/Range Program Employee or current GSSF member.
Armorer's Advanced Course restriction - Current armorers with at least 2 years experience are eligible for the Advanced Armorers Course

Here is a link to all the training that Glock offers.
https://www.glocktraining.com/CourseDesc.aspx
 
Elkins45 said:
If the holes are drilled wrong all the parts swapping in the world won’t fix it.
Click to expand...

100% correct! The first thing I do when I get a new frame is to throw out the junk drill bits that come with it. I use good brad point bits to drill the holes. I use the Dremel 5/32" brad point bit for the 4mm hole and a 7/64" brad point bit for the 3mm holes. I do have to go back and ream the 3mm holes by hand but use a #32 drill bit which is slightly under 3mm.

Another mistake I see people make all the time is to modify the frame to get the parts to fit. Always fit the part to the gun, no matter what platform you are working with. One of my pet peeves is that you should never ever open up the pin holes in the frame or rails to get the pins in. That only causes more problems down the line. I see people suggesting to just open the pin holes with a Dremel bit to get the holes to line up and then wonder why their pistol has issues.
 
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