New to reload,have 38/357 older reloading parts given to me

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GeoDudeFlorida said:
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But that's not all! As a special bonus, .38Special dies will also work for reloading .38 Long Colt with the SAME 1/8" adjustment (but in the opposite direction, shorter, not longer)! That's THREE cartridges reloaded with ONE die set!
And, with just another turn of the screw, you can upgrade to the .357 Remington Maximum - or .357 Max - cartridge (max case length 1.605") absolutely FREE! That's FOUR cartridges with ONE die set just by turning a nut!

Call now! ;)
Click to expand...

Sir did you have your headset on when you typed this?
It reads a lot like an OXYCLEAN commercial.
 
Well Geo Dude I teach a reloading class at the local gun club when needed so although long winded it is how I show the noobs it is done. Also I make several dummy cartridges with all the bullets I use to reset my dies with ease. I always stress working smart and safety above anything else. Find a system that works for you with several checks and repeat it every time. Refine it as you find problems, and you inevitably will find some.
 
FROGO207 said:
Well Geo Dude I teach a reloading class at the local gun club when needed so although long winded it is how I show the noobs it is done. Also I make several dummy cartridges with all the bullets I use to reset my dies with ease. I always stress working smart and safety above anything else. Find a system that works for you with several checks and repeat it every time. Refine it as you find problems, and you inevitably will find some.
Click to expand...
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Yup. Agree completely. And any flawed bullets or cases can be made into action proofing dummies (APD’s).
 
I know trail boss powder is a bulky powder, how about out of these, which ones fill up a case more, but using the same grains, lets say 2 grains for giggles,
this what calibers i found are suggested for the bullet
titegroup--357
bullseye-----38 special
unique-----357
power pistol----357
universal----38 special
hp-38-------38 special
Win-296, supposibly matches hodgen 110-----for 38 and or 357
 
Antimony said:
I know trail boss powder is a bulky powder, how about out of these, which ones fill up a case more, but using the same grains, lets say 2 grains for giggles,
this what calibers i found are suggested for the bullet
titegroup--357
bullseye-----38 special
unique-----357
power pistol----357
universal----38 special
hp-38-------38 special
Win-296, supposibly matches hodgen 110-----for 38 and or 357
Click to expand...

Following is my experience. YMMV.

Titegroup works OK with 357 -Very easy to double or even triple charge.
Unique will make a decent load for 357, but you won't get the most out of the cartridge with it. It will be next to impossible to overcharge a case.
One of my most accurate loads is 9.6 grains of Power Pistol and a 125 grain JHP. Again, PP will not give you maximum velocities, but I can't argue with results! Hard to double charge.
HP-38 (AKA Win 231 - they are the same powder) is good for 38 Special loads, but I just never got anything close to true magnum load with it. Hard to double charge, but not impossible. It is fantastic with 9mm!
Win-296 (It is the exact same powder as H-110 - confirmed by Hodgdon) - So far, I have not found anything that compares to this powder for true magnum loads. Really fills up a case. Impossible to double charge. Hard to go wrong with this powder in 357! 14.7 grains with a Speer 158 grain JHP really gets the job done both power and accuracy wise (at least it does in both of my 357's).

Well, there's my $.03 worth (inflation - but in truth, it probably is not worth that much!o_O)
 
Thanks docbrown, it is worth a lot to me thats for sure. ill put some plus signs next to the powders in my card in my wallet, probably wont get much of a choice this late in the game, but hoping i can find a shop that has at least a couple choices.
 
docbrown said:
Following is my experience. YMMV.

Titegroup works OK with 357 -Very easy to double or even triple charge.
Unique will make a decent load for 357, but you won't get the most out of the cartridge with it. It will be next to impossible to overcharge a case.
One of my most accurate loads is 9.6 grains of Power Pistol and a 125 grain JHP. Again, PP will not give you maximum velocities, but I can't argue with results! Hard to double charge.
HP-38 (AKA Win 231 - they are the same powder) is good for 38 Special loads, but I just never got anything close to true magnum load with it. Hard to double charge, but not impossible. It is fantastic with 9mm!
Win-296 (It is the exact same powder as H-110 - confirmed by Hodgdon) - So far, I have not found anything that compares to this powder for true magnum loads. Really fills up a case. Impossible to double charge. Hard to go wrong with this powder in 357! 14.7 grains with a Speer 158 grain JHP really gets the job done both power and accuracy wise (at least it does in both of my 357's).

Well, there's my $.03 worth (inflation - but in truth, it probably is not worth that much!o_O)
Click to expand...
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Those are all great choices. I prefer 2400 to 110 but it’s just a matter of personal preference. These days go with what you can find. You won’t go wrong with either one.
 
Antimony said:
Thanks docbrown, it is worth a lot to me thats for sure. ill put some plus signs next to the powders in my card in my wallet, probably wont get much of a choice this late in the game, but hoping i can find a shop that has at least a couple choices.
Click to expand...
Plus one on h110/296 for full power 357.
Look in your book for powders that give the velocities you want.
 
Bfh_auto said:
Plus one on h110/296 for full power 357.
Look in your book for powders that give the velocities you want.
Click to expand...

Ok, i will look at my book, and check what velocities also,gives me something else to do. My dies only have a RN seater, can i use a WC to seat SWC, or anything with a flat top, say RF, or RNF, could i also take a RN seater and just grind the end flat.
 
Antimony said:
Ok, i will look at my book, and check what velocities also,gives me something else to do. My dies only have a RN seater, can i use a WC to seat SWC, or anything with a flat top, say RF, or RNF, could i also take a RN seater and just grind the end flat.
Click to expand...
I use a round nose seater for everything. It deforms super soft hollow points though. They still shoot well so I don't care.
 
Antimony said:
Ok, i will look at my book, and check what velocities also,gives me something else to do. My dies only have a RN seater, can i use a WC to seat SWC, or anything with a flat top, say RF, or RNF, could i also take a RN seater and just grind the end flat.
Click to expand...
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Something you may notice in your books is Accurate 4100/Ramshot Enforcer data that seems interchangeable and/or one will be missing. Like W296/H-110 and W231/HP-38, Western Powders Accurate 4100 and Ramshot Enforcer are identical powders with different labeling and different lot-to-lot numbering. Western differentiates between the two, with some data for 4100 being noted as "soft-point" while Enforcer is not. When you reference The Books, be aware of labeling and lots, especially when seeking highest-velocity loads and newer powders with less history behind them.
 
Have to look for clubs, ect..you would think here in Az there would be tons of info and clubs, since we are an open carry and concealed carry with no permits.
Calling around to day at the gun shops to see what avaiable. ! shop i always bought my ammo from is empty, even of ammo, 1 box of 38 special,130 grain,$39.00 50 rounds, i think ill pass.
 
Sorry I’m late to the party. I scanned the thread, so my apologies if I repeat something.

I collect vintage presses, so I may be able to help with your equipment information.

That press looks like a CH 202 super C. It’s cast aluminum and plenty strong for your needs. I’ve never heard of CR, but that doesn’t mean they don’t exist. Texan made one that looked very similar.

Those old Texan dies are good dies, but I’ve never seen any that used a carbide ring for sizing. Thus, you will probably need to lube your brass for sizing. The best way to tell is to look at the bottom of the sizing die and look for a ring. It will look like a wedding ring at the hole.

Carbide dies did not become mainstream until the late 70’s. Though Star had them in the 50’s and even some with Potter. Texan went out of business sometime in the 70’s, my mind can’t remember when that was right now.

Another thing about older dies: sometimes the decapper die also bells the case in the same operation rather than decap AND size like modern dies. The sizing die only sizes, so you need to check that out.

Not everything is engraved in stone. Many companies stole ideas and copied one another, and many tried to pave the way with new methods that failed.

Best
 
Last edited:
Reinz said:
Sorry I’m late to the party. I scanned the thread, so my apologies if I repeat something.

I collect vintage presses, so I may be able to help with your equipment information.

That press looks like a CH 202 super C. It’s cast aluminum and plenty strong for your needs. I’ve never heard of CR, but that doesn’t mean they don’t exist. Texan made one that looked very similar.

Those old Texan dies are good dies, but I’ve never seen any that used a carbide ring for sizing. Thus, you will probably need to lube your brass for sizing. The best was to tell is to look at the bottom of the sizing die and look for a ring. It will look like a wedding ring at the hole.

Carbide dies did not become mainstream until the late 70’s. Though Star had them in the 50’s and even some with Potter. Texan went out of business sometime in the 70’s, my mind can’t remember when that was right now.

Another thing about older dies: sometimes the decapper die also bells the case in the same operation rather than decap AND size like modern dies. The sizing die only sizes, so you need to check that out.

Not everything is engraved in stone. Many companies stole ideas and copied one another, and many tried to pave the way with new methods that failed.

Best
Click to expand...

The pics i posted yes, the decapper looks like it sizes and or flairs also,there is a ring above the decapper, and then a flare on top of that, the sizer is steel. i am going to get it out and use a case with the decapper and see what happens when i fit a new LSWC .158 into it
 
The pic i posted of the decapper, the silver metal part above the decap pin and the below the bevel measures .356 so it is not any kind of a sizer, must just be a guide for the decap pin to stay straight, i will keep playing around with it
 
Antimony said:
The pic i posted of the decapper, the silver metal part above the decap pin and the below the bevel measures .356 so it is not any kind of a sizer, must just be a guide for the decap pin to stay straight, i will keep playing around with it
Click to expand...

Just a guess on my part but I believe the top die just resizes, second die deprimes, flares and expands, third die seats and crimps.
 
FROGO207 said:
When seating a bullet start with a brass in the press and the ram raised to the top. Screw the center of the seater all the way up or remove it. Turn the body down onto the brass until it touches it and back 1/2 turn. Lock body there for now. Drop ram and insert a bullet in the previously expanded neck and raise into the body. Turn the seater stem down until it touches. Lower the ram some and turn down the seater stem a turn raise the ram to stop, lower it and check seating. Do this as many times as it takes to get your bullet seated where you want it. Then unscrew the seater 2 turns. Unlock the die body and slowly turn it in until the desired crimp is achieved. Put the round back up into the die and turn the seating stem in until it stops. Lock the die body there. The next time you do this with a bullet in a flared case you will seat and crimp in one operation. A brass need to be the same length to get a reasonably consistant crimp or they need to be trimmed.
Click to expand...



Thats exactly how i do it. Easy
 
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