I've never tried them. My loads pull double duty in a 357 carbine. So I load bullets that will cycle through it.
New to reload,have 38/357 older reloading parts given to me
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Yes, that is what im thinking, the first one says sizer, and the 3rd says seater
Ok, next question i cant find an anser in my ABCs reloading manual, for 38 and 357, how close should case length be to each other before i need to trim cases if ever. this is once fired in my gun, from new brand name manufacturers, winchester, ect.
Just for example i pulled 1 case from each corner of box, and 2 from 1/3rd and 2/3rds, in center of box.
results are 1.141, 1.1415, 1,1140,1.142 ,ect, you get my drift.
Same for my 357 cases, about same differences. but different dimensions of course.
Just wondering about the cannelure to crimp, are those tolerances close enough for a good consistent crimp with out trimming case, just for self defense and plinking, nothing special.
Just for example i pulled 1 case from each corner of box, and 2 from 1/3rd and 2/3rds, in center of box.
results are 1.141, 1.1415, 1,1140,1.142 ,ect, you get my drift.
Same for my 357 cases, about same differences. but different dimensions of course.
Just wondering about the cannelure to crimp, are those tolerances close enough for a good consistent crimp with out trimming case, just for self defense and plinking, nothing special.
Blue68f100
Member
Those look good only 0.002" max dev. I would not worry about it was over 0.005" and then only if I was loading max load and needed a good roll crimp.
Some do trim all of theirs just to make the crimp more consistent. Normally you will have a ± 0.001" dev on trimming, some worst depending on trimmer.
Some do trim all of theirs just to make the crimp more consistent. Normally you will have a ± 0.001" dev on trimming, some worst depending on trimmer.
Thanks, i have the trimmer already so was just checking since ive never reloaded before. i thought it might make a diff to some, but not me.if i can put 6 in the black at 20 yards or less im good
If i want to shoot big game ill use the BP .50 cal
If i want to shoot big game ill use the BP .50 cal
Ok, tried my first case, no powder, after seating and crimping i9 can still turn the bullet in the case.
Now, my expander is just a bell, so how hard shud it start, i can push it in up to the cannelure with my finger, it is snug, is this ok, or is it belled to much., and should the bullet actually be pressed in.
Thats why i can turn it in the case after crimped, or is my crimp not tight enough,or the dies is wore out some,
also, i have to do something with the press i think, after touching die with a ccard space, it still locks up, what i mean is i have to back the dies out1 turn to release handle, but at that point, it doesnt crimp good.
It is the over space after going over center,trying to find answers in my manual before asking here
thanjks for all the help
Now, my expander is just a bell, so how hard shud it start, i can push it in up to the cannelure with my finger, it is snug, is this ok, or is it belled to much., and should the bullet actually be pressed in.
Thats why i can turn it in the case after crimped, or is my crimp not tight enough,or the dies is wore out some,
also, i have to do something with the press i think, after touching die with a ccard space, it still locks up, what i mean is i have to back the dies out1 turn to release handle, but at that point, it doesnt crimp good.
It is the over space after going over center,trying to find answers in my manual before asking here
thanjks for all the help
Ok, bought a brand new Lyman seater, and crimp die to try out,still trying to figure out the off center thing when ram all the way down, and try and come back up it hits die, and i have to loosen die a turn.
I guess this old texan is just a seater, and i have no crimper, even though the box only holds 3 dies, or the crimper is wore out or over worked, so maybe just buy a whole new set and put this texan on ebay, or throw out
Texan die that says seater
Lyman die that is seater and crimper, cant spin bullet in case
I guess this old texan is just a seater, and i have no crimper, even though the box only holds 3 dies, or the crimper is wore out or over worked, so maybe just buy a whole new set and put this texan on ebay, or throw out
Texan die that says seater
Lyman die that is seater and crimper, cant spin bullet in case
LightninST
Member
Just bell enough to not shave the bullet going in the case , your crimp looks good to me 
Just bell enough to not shave the bullet going in the case , your crimp looks good to me
the lyman one, right, not the texan, the texan die might just be a seater, and not a crimper, i cant find any directions,to old
and hard to tell looking in throat of die, but i dont think it does.
Maybe 1 reason the guy gave it to me, didnt want to mess around anymore getting older
How about flat base bullets, and those with a small taper, do the flat base \help to stop leading
Blue68f100
Member
It sounds like your not sizing the brass. the bullet should not be able to turn or move the bullet with a great deal of force.
You only want to expand enough to allow the bullet to start without shaving. Set every thing up with out the crimp. If your able to move the bullet something is not right. Your crimp looks good but I do not see any indication that you have neck tension on the bullet. This is very important. Neck tension is what holds the bullet. A roll crimp keep the bullet from jumping under hard recoil. Think like a kinetic bullet puller.
so i have to resize no matter what, even if there first fired from brand new.
heres 3 more practice rounds, i used the swc seater on the rnf, maybe the round would be better, or do i need a wadcutter seater. My rnf looks like a cross between it and an swc now.
I think my problem is the need to make all cases exactly the same length, even just a .0005 to .005 makes a difference in the bell
heres 3 more practice rounds, i used the swc seater on the rnf, maybe the round would be better, or do i need a wadcutter seater. My rnf looks like a cross between it and an swc now.
I think my problem is the need to make all cases exactly the same length, even just a .0005 to .005 makes a difference in the bell
MauriceSam
Member
Good advice. My thoughts exactly.
Blue68f100
Member
Yes, you must resize every time. The only exception is new brass, and some resize it.
WeekendReloader
Member
I resize and trim new brass. This includes once fired factory brass.
You would be surprised how inconsistent factory brass is. The case mouths are not always flat or perpendicular to the case wall. My trimmer often trims off one side and barely touches the other.
After trimming everything to the same length, the crimping stage is very consistent.
You would be surprised how inconsistent factory brass is. The case mouths are not always flat or perpendicular to the case wall. My trimmer often trims off one side and barely touches the other.
After trimming everything to the same length, the crimping stage is very consistent.
This is new brass, or you mean new not fired, like once in my gun
Blue68f100
Member
New brass is how the mfg made it coming off the machines and nothing else done, no primer, powder or bullet. Like said, if it's ever been used (fired) it must be resized before loading. I like may others will size new brass to make sure every thing is uniform. The mouths get dinged in shipping. So on rifle brass you either run a madrel die or through a sizing die.
Your problem with the loose bullet is that your not sizing the brass. On a straight wall case simi-auto the tension created by sizing is what holds the bullet. The Taper crimp just removes the flaring/expanding needed to start a bullet. On a revolver, a roll crimp is used to keep the bullet from setback due to recoil. Neck tension is still required to help generate the pressure needed for the powder to burn cleanly.
Ok, my inside diameter of my sizer die is .3770, the outside diameter of my cases are .3770 to .3775, the standard size of a 38 is pictured below.
So why do i have to resize all my brass since i am putting in a bullet of .358 diameter anyway., even if i resize it will not be a snug fit,right. since inside diameter should be .379 by pic
I tested my ID and they are .358, to .359 as they are ,once fired
just trying to understand the process
So why do i have to resize all my brass since i am putting in a bullet of .358 diameter anyway., even if i resize it will not be a snug fit,right. since inside diameter should be .379 by pic
I tested my ID and they are .358, to .359 as they are ,once fired
just trying to understand the process
I wouldn't worry about it, 38 spl cases don't stretch enough to trim. I read an article years ago where the magazine was trying to determine the life of 38 brass. They started with six, but eventually settled on one case. They got over 130 loadings from that one case before it split.
Ok, ill try the sizer die again and see what happens, when i tried it before i could see a difference in the case where it was resized and smaller than the bottom of case, i thought i was smashing it to much like the die was not good
so what could i use for a lube with out getting it in all the cases that would mess with the powder, is there a spray of some kind, or maybe i will just go look for a newer set on ebay, carbide or nitride set, and start with some thing im sure about instead of these old ones i know nothing about or how they have been taken care of, i mean they went out of buisness in the 70s
so what could i use for a lube with out getting it in all the cases that would mess with the powder, is there a spray of some kind, or maybe i will just go look for a newer set on ebay, carbide or nitride set, and start with some thing im sure about instead of these old ones i know nothing about or how they have been taken care of, i mean they went out of buisness in the 70s
Set your sizer to bottom out on the shell holder.
Next set your expander die to expand just enough to get a bullet to start without shaving.
Step three.
Screw your seater die in till it touches the brass and back it out 3 turns.
Adjust your seater to seat bullet to the cannelure.
See if you have next tension and we can move on too crimping.
you must mean neck tension, that is what i was asking earlier, when i did as you said, i could turn the bullet in the case, since i didnt resize, i thought if my case was already about the right size anyway of the stock specs it should be fine, especially if putting in a same size bullet, as per say, putting in a .358 bullet, in a .358 ID case. If done like this there would be hardly any neck tension, right. now a .359 would make it tight, as it shows in my pic of the case, i want to also cast my own since i cast for my BP cap and ball, so i can get a great bullet for my gun.
Blue68f100
Member
Fore lube of a non carbide type die straight wall pistol I would use the Hornady One Shot Case Lube. It's more of a wax and is not required to be cleaned off. Dump them in a bag a spray, mix them up. Allow the OS to evaporate for a min of 10 min. OS takes a lot of shaking to get it mixed up before using. I use in on 9mm, 45acp. I apply then dump it into my brass feeder once it has evaporated off the solvent. I never have to wipe if off afterwards after sizing. I'm also using the Hornady TiNi coated dies.
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