Siamese 45-70 Questions, looking for a smith

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nac7789

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Hey everybody,
I recently picked up a Siamese 45/70 rebarrel. She sits in an extra heavy stock that I have already bedded and am refinishing. Receiver and barrel both look excellent except for some thinned bluing but I also plan to rust blue entire thing as well.

Anyway my real problem seems to be the bolt. Everything seems in order but whoever did this conversion put a bastard file to the bolt face and simply ground it flat. Bolt locks up and all but it has an unhealthy amount of slack in it when closed because the bolt face is ground flat. I am an amateur gunsmith but I've honestly never run across one of these before and despite my searching I cannot find a single picture on the internet of a 45/70 bolt face conversion. I understand they are generally 'opened up' on a mill, likely out of the scope of whoever did this conversion years back. The fact that the face is ground flat tells me this was done by someone even more amateur than myself. The fact that the bolt face is now flat is what gives the bolt so much room to move in the receiver. This slack is present whether or not there is a shell present in the chamber.

Really I guess having a picture of one is irrrelevant because either way I know mine is bubba'd and isn't correct. I plan on getting a new siamese bolt both from natchez and having a smith open up the face properly- with that this thing should be sweet.

My question is- does anyone know of a smith that knows of these and can do it properly? Honestly seems pretty simple really.

I really can't say if or who shot it like this. Bolt locks up but there's a measurable amount of play back and forth when closed due to that face being ground off. I scoped the barrel and checked the receiver lugs from the front and they don't seem to have any setback issues and the bolt itself seems perfect minus the face. The barrel does have a bit of copper in it though so it has had rounds down it. I'd rather not shoot it like this with the headspace being the way that it is. The lack of any bolt face also makes ejection a bit wonky. She does feed from the magazine just fine though- I understand these usually struggle with that due to the feed rails.
I got if off a guy who had it in his shop for some time but had no clue of its origins.
Thanks!
 
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You didn't say if the slop is there when the bolt is closed with a round in the chamber. I have several rifles where the bolt has lots of play when closed on an empty chamber. Chamber a round and the play is gone. I assume you haven't shot it, but somebody did. Anyway, good luck finding a replacement bolt.
 
Yes there is slop in the action whether there is a shell present or not due to the improper opening up of the bolt face. On a mauser there is a small ring on the bolt face that the shell sits in. These siamese mausers are desirable for the conversion because of the already large open bolt face due to the rimmed 8x50 round they orignally shot. On this one that bolt face has simply been ground flat in lieu of opening it up properly and still having that ring present on the bolt face which would properly space the bolt.

Anyway, yes there's slop either way. Replacement bolt is already on its way I'm just now looking for a smith anywhere in the USA that can open up that bolt face properly to a 45/70 rim diameter.
 
Can't say whether this will help, but Rifle Magazine published an article on bolt action 45-70 back in 1970. I don't have a copy, but someone here might -- or you can buy a digital back issue if all else fails: https://www.wolfeoutdoorsports.com/rifle-single-issue-12-november-1970/

Kuhnhausen's book doesn't have much to say about the Siamese Mauser, but here's a little relevant information from deHaas:

DeHaasSiamese4570.jpg

According to some forums and old ads, both Navy Arms and E. R. Shaw offered Siamese 45-70 conversions in quantity. Contacting Shaw for advice or to ask for a gunsmith recommendation may prove helpful.

https://www.shawcustombarrels.com/contact
 
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Can't say whether this will help, but Rifle Magazine published an article on bolt action 45-70 back in 1970. I don't have a copy, but someone here might -- or you can buy a digital back issue if all else fails: https://www.wolfeoutdoorsports.com/rifle-single-issue-12-november-1970/

Kuhnhausen's book doesn't have much to say about the Siamese Mauser, but here's a little relevant information from deHaas:

View attachment 1001882

According to some forums and old ads, both Navy Arms and E. R. Shaw offered Siamese 45-70 conversions in quantity. Contacting Shaw for advice or to ask for a gunsmith recommendation may prove helpful.

https://www.shawcustombarrels.com/contact

Thank you so much for that information! That picture you posted has some truly valuable info, is there any way to get the rest of that page? The bottom bits hold some important information!

I am debating turning down some rims but I am unsure how I'd do so. I have a replacement unaltered bolt on order and I contacted Shaw to see what they say about opening it up.
 
Do you have a lathe, it only takes 10-15 seconds to cut the rim down. Make a plug to fit in the lathe, size it so the brass will hold on from the inside. Lock up your cross slide and cut the rim, this is pretty repeatable.
 
Chuck the 45-70 brass in a lathe and run it slowly. Holding a file to the rim will reduce it in seconds. With a little practice you can do this quickly and easily. Use the new bolt's breech face as a gauge. This is far simpler, cheaper and quicker than finding a smith.
If you don't have a lathe, anything with a chuck large enough to hold a 45-70 case will do.
 
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Chuck the 45-70 brass in a lathe and run it slowly. Holding a file to the rim will reduce it in seconds. With a little practice you can do this quickly and easily. Use the new bolt's breech face as a gauge. This is far simpler, cheaper and quicker than finding a smith.
If you don't have a lathe, anything with a chuck large enough to hold a 45-70 case will do.

Good advice -- I've done quite a bit of this using a drill press. Most recently to convert some 30-30 brass to work as reformed 8.15x46R cases.

815x46RAmmoCollection.jpg

My method involves using a dowel or drillbit inserted inside the neck to prevent the chuck from crushing it. I use a mill file and a caliper preset to the desired diameter to check progress. I also place a thick piece of scrap plywood on the press table and position its surface just a fraction of an inch below rim of the case so I can rest the file there. When finished, slipping the scrap plywood off the table allows room to remove and replace cases without repositioning the table each time.
 
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Huge thanks to everyone for their insight and input! For the time being I am going to come up with a mandrel to chuck up in my drill press and turn down the case rims to use with my unmodified bolt.
I contacted er shaw about opening up the bolt face, they should be able to do the work at some point in the future but seem to be very backed up due to the pandemic currently.
 
Huge thanks to everyone for their insight and input! For the time being I am going to come up with a mandrel to chuck up in my drill press and turn down the case rims to use with my unmodified bolt.
I contacted er shaw about opening up the bolt face, they should be able to do the work at some point in the future but seem to be very backed up due to the pandemic currently.
One last word on turning down the rims with a file. You don't need to clamp down the case with the vulcan death grip. I have found that tightening the chuck with just hand pressure is more than enough.
 
I was toying around last night and found that my case length gauge flipped backwards and inserted into the case and then chucked into my big drill works great to both hold and center the cases. I've got about 50 empty cases laying around i'm going to try filing down. This won't be a high volume venture so that may work ok, we'll see.
 
I was toying around last night and found that my case length gauge flipped backwards and inserted into the case and then chucked into my big drill works great to both hold and center the cases. I've got about 50 empty cases laying around i'm going to try filing down. This won't be a high volume venture so that may work ok, we'll see.
You might be surprised at how little time it takes to do 50 cases once you get the hang of it. I used to do this with 38 Super cases to convert them to 9mm Largo brass. Super rims are .405" and Largo's go .395". Finished off a box of 50 in about 30 minutes.
 
You might be surprised at how little time it takes to do 50 cases once you get the hang of it. I used to do this with 38 Super cases to convert them to 9mm Largo brass. Super rims are .405" and Largo's go .395". Finished off a box of 50 in about 30 minutes.

Handgun asides: I went at this the other way and made myself a reamer to very slightly open the breechface of my Astra M400s (I had four of these at one point, down to two for now) for the .38's semi-rim. Then I discovered that the slides and magazines of most M400s will handle both cases interchangeably without modification.

On my custom Largo/Super Handi Rifle single shot barrel, I had the chamber counterbored for the .38's semi-rim, and used a .223 extractor that holds and ejects Largos equally well.

38NickelSuper.jpg

As it happens, I was just handling some 9mm Largo brass last week. I brought home a new RIA 1911 in .38 Super and was making up some small-batches of +P handloads to see what it likes. I had prepared a bunch of primed .38 ACP cases years earlier, and I discovered some Starline 9x23 Largo brass mixed in with them. My loading tray would allow the Largos to sit flat, while the semi-rimmed Supers were just that bit larger that they sat at a slight angle. I've been using this tray now as a shortcut for segregating these two cases.
 
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