Ruger mkii help

Hammer needs to be forward. Hold the gun vertical, press the trigger and tap the side of the gun: the hammer should fall forward. If it doesn't, keep the trigger pulled and poke it from behind with a punch. It'll swing forward. Be sure the hammer strut is swinging freely. Keeping the muzzle well down - so that the hammer strut is swung toward the magazine well, take the mainspring, while holing the pin at roughly a 90 degree angle to the body and slide the pin up through the frame and barrel. Might need give it a little extra nudge to get the pin fully seated. Fold the mainspring partly into the frame. Once the "claw" at the end of the mainspring has pivoted far enough up toward the barrel so that the hammer strut can swing in behind it, rotate the muzzle up so that the end of the hammer strut falls into the pocket in the back of the mainspring. You can't see this happening, so pay attention to the geometries before you start. Now swing the mainspring into the housing. The last 1/4 - 3/8" of movement into the frame should have spring resistance. If it doesn't, the end of the hammer struct didn't get captured in the pocket. Repeat until it does. Once you've done it a couple times, its easy.

I've only dealt with mk3s but maybe similar, if not disregard- I put a magazine in and hold the trigger back while shaking it with the muzzle pointed upward. Sounds goofy . but it seems to settle things in the right position. The back piece will close up easily if it's right.

Welcome to the joy of the Mark II reassembly. I have bought (but not installed) one of these….

https://www.hammerstrutsupport.com/

Installed the Hammer Strut Support yesterday. It will change your life. I plan on buying a couple more just to have on hand, in case I find a Markll that needs a home.

The trick is ensure the hammer is in the fully forward position, then make sure the hammer strut is not trapped behind the cross pin in the receiver. It should dangle freely if you tilt the muzzle at an angle upward. If you're holding the barrel parallel to the ground the strut will lay on the cross pin, but keep tilting the muzzle up till it pulls away from the cross pin a little bit, that is where you want it when you snap the mainspring housing lever in place. You should feel barely perceptible tension as the strut engages the mainspring cup.

Once you do it once or twice it is a cinch to do from then on. Making sure the hammer is fully forward, strut is not behind cross pin and tilt muzzle up till it is off the cross pin slightly and you're there. Way longer to explain than do

yea, you have to point up at like a 45 degree angle and sort of let the strut dangle and then close the whatever it is called. you feel a touch of spring pressure when the thing/arm is closed against the back fo the grip. If you miss the pin/strut alignment to the hole for the spring, no spring pressure and you need to try again. sometimes on my MK2, if I don't have the big pin up into the receiver 100%, it kind of pops back out when you try to close the arm thing, and again - have to try again. once you do it a bunch of times it seems second nature. great little pistols.

Everyone gave you great advice. If you still have a problem sell it to me cheap.

LOL, I when 6 years between cleaning with my MK2 because I didn’t want to spend 3 hours trying to put it back together. Gun was so full of lead and carbon it would not move. I should have put it a sonic cleaner for 5 days.

I finally figure the hammer forward thing.

Hammer needs to be forward.

I mastered it as a kid.
Its super easy once you have the knack.
So easy as to be upsetting, if you struggled before.

Its one of those "you gotta be kidding me" things.

The ones that can be problematic........are the newer style 22/45s. They can lock up and the MS housing not come free.
Stuck at almost, no in, or out.

Those can be a 5 second wiggle and come loose, or 5 minutes. The wiggle will get it, eventually.
Fingers sore, fighting it will not work.

Gimme a MK any time. Theyre so easy.............once you get the knack.

The big pin that goes up into the receiver can get some burrs on it. I stoned some off mine and it make that pin possible to pop in and out, I'd say it is now difficult - but a firm really solid push or pull makes it work, before I stoned it - I had to use a brass punch to get it out - and putting it back it was basically not workable.

Follow the owner's manual a few times and it becomes easier. I can do it in under 10 minutes. My friend takes 2 days every time after years of trying to do it. He has to follow the manual every time. I told him to buy a Mark IV.

No need to sell it, just put it away for a day and go at it again. You Tube is your friend.

I’ve got one I’ve been shooting for twenty years, probably about 300 rounds a year, haven’t taken it apart yet, too scared I won’t be able to get it back together. I typically just brush out the barrel, wipe it down with BreakFree, and put it away till next time. So far, keeps working just fine. I guess one day, if it eventually stops working, I’ll have to visit YouTube, find this thread again, and finally try the disassembly and reassembly thing!

msmp5 said:

I’ve got one I’ve been shooting for twenty years, probably about 300 rounds a year, haven’t taken it apart yet, too scared I won’t be able to get it back together. I typically just brush out the barrel, wipe it down with BreakFree, and put it away till next time. So far, keeps working just fine. I guess one day, if it eventually stops working, I’ll have to visit YouTube, find this thread again, and finally try the disassembly and reassembly thing!

Click to expand...

I did the same but more like 1,000 round a year. Take it apart man! you will feel free from the bondage of Ruger!

Hammer forward!

Just dont take the gun all the way apart LOL....like remove detent ball status.

A bud did and called me. That was a 3 hand deal getting it back together. Went quick enough but would have been a bit longer without the helper.

Regular take down, as in upper off grip frame, scrub parts and back together.....

Easy.

Dont be intimidated. Dont get frustrated.

the best thing is to expect it to be a bit frustrating, then when you've got it - you know the tricks of it, but it is something anyone should be able to learn - granted mechanical skills are vanishing slowly over decades, working that MK2 when it came out, my guess was really nothing anyone thought twice about until about sometime in the 80s..

Now I’m worried about taking my MK2 down. My MK4 is easy

this an an animated video with a cutaway showing how the mkii works.


as others have said, the hammer needs to be in the fired position to take tension off the mainspring. you cannot remove or install the mainspring in the hammer cocked position. neither can you install or remove the bolt with the hammer in the fired position. to complicate these things, there in a crosspin in the frame the hammer strut likes to get caught on.

all the hokey pokey gynmastics about pointing gun down and pulling trigger, up and pulling trigger, chanting incantations to Bill ruger are to achieve those tasks.

When I remove the barrel, I use a 19/64 drill bit to align the barrel & receiver, or insert the bolt stop ping from the top to align correctly. If the main spring wants to pop out, hammer isn't forward.