Revolver Suggestions: .357 4"

A Model 19 or 66 Smith would be my choice.

Easy choice.


Summer gun is my Model 19-4




and just got this for my winter gun. I have to replace the grips before winter though.

My taurus 2" 357 has been great. I've never had an issue. However, in a 4" revolver, my opinion is that you can't get a finer revolver for the money than a used s&w model 19.

IMHO those Rugers are butt ugly.

686

586 or 686 s&w.

I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for good 4" .357's?

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BTW, you don't mention the purpose you need a 4" .357 for. I think you need to be more specific as to your needs and I apologize in advance if you have, didn't read the thread yet.

Interestingly, the negative comments are on the boards, not from people in-person. [/shrug]

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Well, I've owned a few, carried them as CCW's and got rid of them. There is nothing wrong with Taurus revolvers but they have a tendency to lock up every so often, the explanation I got was from a friend was that Taurus needs to skimp somewhere to keep their prices reasonable and they can't skimp on the finish so it means somewhere in the building or assembling that they skimp figuring that they will deal with any problems on an individual basis. This friend is an FFL and has much experience. There is no doubt that any revolver can lock up, even a Ruger or Smith, but with my two Tauruses (905 & 44c) it was too often for comfort. Both were new BTW and new guns do that sometimes. FWIW

"There's a reason most Smiths won't work on em. They're junk."

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Over-exageration, they are not junk, they are just not reliable enough to depend on when your life is at stake. Most Smiths prefer not to work on them because most Smiths are honest and will tell you that they can get them into perfect condition but the end result will be be an $800 Taurus that will still only be worth $350 on the open market.

the primary use would be home defense and at the range.

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GP-100 or Sp-101
You will never break them, they keep their market value and go up in value if you customize (like say the trigger), they are stronger than any comparable S&W or Taurus and as reliable as S&W if not moreso.

Seems to be a running theme of this board. If its not Smith or Ruger its not worth considering.

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Unlike other boards, THR members usually do not bash or dismiss something unless there is a reason or there are true life experiences that prove to be the majority of cases. Sometimes people do not express themselves well, and well intentioned answers written in the usual internet shorhand are interpreted as a bash. For the most part, this is not a Chevy VS Ford issue, this is members who are acting like friends and hoping to help you make the most well-informed decision you can make. The theme is NOT mine is bigger than yours, the theme is are you getting the best value for your dollar and is your life worth the difference of saving $100?

Butt ugly (beauty is in the eyes of the beholder) yet bull strong.

I agree the DA pull on my Model 19-4 is outstanding, but the work done on my Security Six makes it almost as good.

I used to think Ruger Sixes were ugly too. But then they started to grow on me. And after passing up a Security Six, I happened on a very nice Speed Six that is one of my favorite firearms. Of course, this one is only a .38, but the Sixes are wonderful, and I am looking for a Security Six to add to my collection:



If you must have 4", can't go wrong with any of the S&W L-frames - here's my 681 - balances great, and affordable.



My favorite .357.....

The people who criticize taurus I think are just being snobby.

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I have a Smith, several Rugers, and a Taurus. The Rugers are built like tanks. The Smith is somewhere between a Ruger and a fine Swiss watch. The Taurus has had more than its share of problems, and when I called Customer Service to get it fixed (right out of the box) they put me on hold and never came back on the line. I kind of like the Taurus in spite of that; I had a local gunsmith fix the original problems and make it safe to shoot, and I recently bought an aftermarket hardened base pin that should help with most of the remaining problems. And I should probably fire-lap the barrel to smooth out the tool marks to lessen its leading problems.

I could never recommend a Taurus, based on my experience. But if you buy one anyway and get a good one, I'm really happy for you. Even if you get a bad one, it will look real nice in your safe (that's one thing Taurus doesn't skimp on)

Find yourself one of these, Model 28-2 Highway Patrolman.

If buying new, my money would be on the Ruger GP100. Used, a pre-lock S&W 686

I paid $400, out-the-door ($375+tax) for mine last month at a gun shop. It is in excellent condition and shows very little signs of use and no signs of carry whatsoever. It is a pre-lock, no-MIM model.

Of course, it shows signs of use now. Great gun!

Sold my GP100 when money was real bad (4 kids in college bad). Been crying ever since. That was one fine piece of metal work and accurate.

Get a GP100...you will love it. The guy I sold it to still sends me Christmas cards!

I saw a 686 (-4, maybe) in a shop yesterday marked at $500. It was in good shape, and I'm sure they would've taken less.

I would not buy a S&W, they are junk.......but if you know of any for sell let me know!

I agree. I try to take them all off the market so that no one else has to suffer them. I try to do the same with Colts. It's just a public service.

I have owned and shot the Ruger GP100 and S&W 686. I like the S&W better, and have sold off the Ruger. The 686 has been around for a while now and is a solid gun. You can also get it with a 7 round cylinder. Good luck.

Ruger GP100. Ought to be able to find a very good used one for $350 or thereabouts.

I lean a little bit to the GP Ruger side. The S&W 686 is a fine revolver, but the Ruger is built bank vault solid. Look at both side by side and you will see the difference.
I am not a big fan of Taurus as I feel their quality can be a hit or miss deal.

JeffDilla,

I would have to disagree, testing the trigger pull (dry firing) of a revolver before purchasing is a must to me. The equivalent of test driving a car. The amount of money paid, the importance of a good trigger and hand fit to being effective with a revolver make this critical. Add to this the potential danger of needing the gun and not being effective with it seal the deal for me.

The only exception I would make to this would be rimfires and certain Colts that need a trip back to the factory in the event of a broken firing pin. Even then snap caps are the simple solution.

I have to assume that any shop or person that really expects to sell revolvers accepts that the potential buyer (if at all well informed) must dry fire. I would be highly skeptical of any seller that refused you this based on "eitiquette".

What to look for when dry firing a potential purchase;

1. does the trigger action operate smoothly (or can you feel a lot of mechanical bumps and grinds as it cycles)?

2. is the length of travel necessary to drop the hammer when operating double action excessively loooong (or possibly disconcertingly short)?

3. does your hand remain in correct firing position through the entire DA cycle or are you "reaching" or resetting your hand position or grip during the pull?

4. does the trigger pull (necessary lbs of pressure to move the trigger) remain constant or does it "load" (require increasing pressure the further along the cycle it goes)?

5. constant or not is the trigger pull excessively heavy or light?

Along with the excellent sticky about evaluating a revolver before purchase, I will without fail observe these factors by dry firing (and if possible live firing also). Unusual characteristics observed during this exercise can be the warning of expensive work required, the gun is not a good choice for you or worse that an amature has attempted to modify the trigger and possibly rendered the piece an unsafe time bomb.

Just my .02 cent dose of humble opinion.