Mauser Trigger Mod Links?

MostlyMosin · Dec 20, 2008

I have 4 old Mausers in my current herd of well over two dozen firearms.
(I have two 24/47's, an original VZ24, and a M-48)

I am not happy with the factory military triggers on any of the Mausers. Basically - they suck. :cuss:

They all have 5 pounds of pull, or more. The two stage takeup is rediculously long, and then I am rewarded with the ugly 5 pound release, with the barrel wavering as I struggle trying to figure out when it's actually going to fire. It's rediculous trying to shoot tight groups with triggers that perform like this!

I was going to buy 4 BOLD triggers and install them, but I like to do my own trigger mods myself at home.

On my Mosins, I have them all to 3 pounds or less, (the better ones more like 12 OZ) and they are completely safe. I bounce them on the carpet and they stay cocked. So fear not- I actually DO know what I am doing.

But on these old Mausers- I am finding it difficult to locate decent links on the Internet to help me with my Mauser trigger modifications. If I eventually screw them up, I'll buy aftermarket triggers, but I don't like the idea of using a Dremmel tool to make the BOLD aftermarket triggers fit my nice Military stocks to begin with.

Besides-
I always feel better on the target range when I do my gunsmithing work at home!

For anyone with mod links, My many thanks to you in advance-

(AKA: MostlyMosin)

35 Whelen · Dec 20, 2008

Here's how I do it:

Removing the hump eliminates the first stage. If you don't want to mess with the screw, you can polish the sears to lighten the pull.
35W

Big Matt · Dec 20, 2008

I know this is a bit different than you were asking; but you could also take a look here:

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/hubertrigger/index.asp

That's an article about replacement "Mauser" triggers that appear stock and I believe are adjustable, etc, etc.

rcmodel · Dec 20, 2008

There is a risk involved in trying to remove the two-stage pull, while at the same time, making a short, light second stage pull.

Unlike modern rifle triggers, the two-stage military trigger works directly on the cocking piece sear surface.
There is no secondary sear in the trigger system to safely make it both short & light!

Bolt slop changes the amount of sear engagement every time you close the bolt.

Carried to extremes, the cocking piece can slip off of the sear when the bolt is slammed shut, and the rifle may fire without pulling the trigger.

If you want light, leave the two-stage alone.

If you want single-stage, don't try to make it too light.

It is actually a non-problem anyway to pull out the two-stage slack until you feel the second stage begin, and then get serious about the sights.

Folks were winning very serious 1,000 yard rifle matches for 100 years with them, and still are.

rcmodel

jimmyraythomason · Dec 20, 2008

I no longer modify Mauser triggers. I replace them with Bold or Timney adjustable units and save the unmolested originals.

Coronach · Dec 20, 2008

http://www.huberconcepts.com/Mauser_Trigger_Replacement.htm

Not much experience with them, but they seem to be decent, and not terribly expensive.

Mike

rcmodel · Dec 20, 2008

There are a lot better adjustable triggers for $80 bucks!

Like the Timney Sportsman.

With the Huber, you still have a direct sear / cocking-piece interface, and it will never safely match or even come close to an adjustable trigger with a secondary sear like the Timney.

rcmodel

dirtyjim · Dec 20, 2008

when i rework a military trigger i usually keep the second stage.
the first stage is lighter because its pivot is closer to the fulcrum. by shortening the back of the trigger about .040 then stoning a slightly larger radius you can shorten the distance from the fulcrum to the end of the second stage & that will give you more leverage & a lighter pull. whenever you shorten or remove the second stage it also causes the sear to rise up higher & changes the angle where it mates up to the cocking piece. i fix the sear angle first then shorten the sear height. i put a dab of prussian blue on the face of the cocking piece then cycle the bolt.check the marks left on the sear by the prussian blue & stone the sear till you have full contact with the cocking piece. then i the stone the sear down till i have about .050 contact with the cocking piece.

you can also scan the auction sites for a viggo miller trigger attachment

i would also suggest clyde bakers book modern gunsmithing. it has alot of usefull info on trigger design

nj.piney · Dec 21, 2008

# 1 on the bold trigger , i put one on a m48 yugo mauser . they are excellent. a dremel tool was required .

MostlyMosin · Dec 22, 2008

Not sure what to do next?

Thanks for all the feedback. I did a little more research, and I shopped out as many of the aftermarket triggers as I could find.

(1) The JARD trigger.
Sweet! - twice the price of the BOLD or Timney, but at under a pound at a miserly 12 ounce weight, it's looking very tempting to me, in my number one pick. I have to decide if a pound of trigger weight is worth an extra $50 to me.

(2) TIMNEY trigger. with tuning from 2 lb to 4 lb, and very good reviews, it's a fantastic deal. Probobly my best bet for the price.

(tie: 3-4) The original thought - the BOLD trigger- but the lowest trigger weight they tune up to would be a hefty 2.7 pounds, (and that seems a little heavy!)

(tie: 3-4) The Huber trigger? with trigger weight of less than 2 pounds, but with the feedback above about being a single stage, I am on the fence. I guess I don't get how a single stage could be any less acurate than a two-stage trigger. I remain confused on the matter. :banghead:

Did I miss any others to consider?
I'll place my orders sometime in the next week or two once I get the final word here
Thanks for all the help!

Mauser Trigger Mod Links?

MostlyMosin

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35 Whelen

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Big Matt

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rcmodel

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jimmyraythomason

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Coronach

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rcmodel

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dirtyjim

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nj.piney

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MostlyMosin

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