Why is Lyman Reloading Manual Held in High Regard?

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mongoose33

mongoose33

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I've seen this manual recommended over and over again, and since I was wanting another manual I decided to order it.

I've been going through it and I'm regretting the $34 I spent, so much so that I wondered what people see in it to make it worth recommending.

Here are three things I feel are unfortunate about it, and form some of my dislike of the manual.

First is that it recommends trimming and deburring of handgun cases. Deburring? Trimming? Who is kidding who? Maybe with some specialty cartridges, but just regular .45 or 9mm?

It does note that some new brass comes already trimmed to minimums, but still.

It seems to me that anyone following these directives cannot seriously consider using a progressive press because one would have to check size after the resizing and decapping die.

Second is the recommendation to never use brass that is either not new or that hasn't been fired in your own gun.

I read those two things and wondered what they thought people really do.

Finally, I was hoping that the additional load information would be useful. What a letdown. Compared to my Sierra manual, most of the bullets aren't very mainstream. There is no 115gr FMJ bullet for 9mm, no 230gr FMJ for .45, no plinking ammo for .223.

So, given I bought this after having seen dozens of people recommend it, what does it have to make it worth the recommendations? I'm missing something--what is it?
 
http://www.amazon.com/Metallic-Cartridge-Reloading-M-McPherson/dp/0873491807

Ive looked through and used the Lyman manual and like you I don't see the attraction. Now for a manual EVERYONE needs but never gets recommended click on the link above. Between this manual and hodgon's online date center I've sold many of my other manuals

EDIT

Holy COW! I just noticed what these things are selling for! Apparently others agree with me
 
I don't have a Lyman manual, but thanks to your warning I will read the first few chapters carefully before buying one.

I don't bother to trim .45ACP, as the taper crimp doesn't seem to care about exact case length. It just removes the "bell". No problem running .45ACP through a progressive press.

.44 Remington Magnum, on the other hand, requires a firm roll crimp if you use certain powders, like H110. I verify that all my brass is the same length before starting a run, so that I get consistent crimps.

I haven't noticed either caliber increasing in length after resizing. I believe this is a problem mostly with bottleneck rifle cartridges.

And, yes, running bottleneck cartridges through a progressive press can create problems. Many reloaders resize on a single stage press, then run sized and trimmed (and lube removed) brass back through the progressive press for repriming, powder charge, bullet seating. Others just use the first station as a separate resizing operation and modify their indexing (like for a Dillon 550B) after inserting prepped brass.

The general rule for bottleneck brass is to check for the need to trim after resizing. There are special dies that reduce the need for trimming, but, in the interest of safety, most reloaders check for trim length occasionally even when using these.
 
You need to be more clear... Tell us what you really think...

Last I checked Lyman's 49 Edition was only $20.00. Where did you pay $34.00 at? You will notice that most of us recommend this manual for the beginner. Though I keep a copy no older the 2 years on my bench with my Sierra Vth Edition along with about 6 other manuals for reference and comparison...As all reloaders should...If you read over the parts you don't like, what else did you find wrong with it (other then the [over] price you paid...?
 
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I'm one of the Lyman 49 lovers... for the data.

-They are the only ones that list pressures (at least out of the 4 sources I have).

-I find they have more lead data available than anyone else. Good stuff.

-I've found that I luck out on barrel lengths. They seem to test with what I use. .357 mag, for example, they test with a 4" barrel. Most test with a 6" or even a 7-1/2 inch barrel. The numbers are going to be much higher than what I'll get. I chrono my loads, but it's nice to not have to guess as much.

- Some manuals that I have seem really optimistic with their numbers. Lyman, if all else is equal, seems to match what I come up with at the range better than any other manual I use.

Last, they don't make bullets. You get a variety of different manufacturers.

They don't always line up with what you're trying to accomplish, but I find it a great supplement to other manuals. Take the trimming handgun brass with a grain of salt. When you get into their data, you might just change your mind.
 
I love my Lyman 49th edition the cast data is excellent and I trim my pistol brass for defense loads. Sure as hell doesn't hurt. I think the lyman manual just takes a very broad cover all angle approach for new an old loaders. You just need to figure out what info applies to you and your situation and what info does not.

As for this.
Second is the recommendation to never use brass that is either not new or that hasn't been fired in your own gun.
Click to expand...

I think that is a great idea. Granted I sometimes buy used nickel brass for autoloaders as I do not want to shoot up my primo ammo. But I think it is a very good idea to be cautious of "range" brass.
 
mongoose33 - I took a quick run through the case prep section of the Lyman manual and couldn't find where they specifically recommend trimming and deburring handgun brass. Where is that stated?
 
I hate to say it but i buy my lymans off ebay for about $5 a pop and usually in good shape.. So far I have about 6 issues.. All have great loads, especially for the older powders and cast lead stuff..
 
The Lyman Manual was one of the first, if not the first reloading manual ever put out for us reloaders. It is a very comprehensive and accurate manual and since it was one of the first published it is held in high regard...sort of like your first car or first girlfriend. LOL! :D
 
If you're that disappointed with it, I'd be happy to trade you my copy of Lee 2nd edition reloading for your copy of the Lyman manual...;)

PM me if you're interested.
 
other then the fact they list some loads for odd ball guns and list loads for cast bullets i have to agree that it is a mostly dated manual.
 
I have Lyman/Ideal manuals from #35 thru #49. My reasoning for this is "CAST" in "PB". I cast nearly all the bullets I shoot. I have more than 40 moulds, most Lyman or the earlier Ideal, even the moulds from other companies, I can use Lyman/Ideal information for. As a reference/cross reference, it is second to none. Used in conjunction with COTW and The Handloaders Guide to Cartridge Conversions almost anything can be accomplished when it comes to loading ammunition.
Good shooting!!!!!!!!
 
Second is the recommendation to never use brass that is either not new or that hasn't been fired in your own gun.
Click to expand...
Did you expect them to say that you should use any old brass that you find lying around? No manual is going to do that or some fool would blow up his gun and sue them. Swap it with Halfd for the Lee. Then you'll both be happy.
 
The most important thing you are ignoring is a reloading manual has to be written for the person with absolutely no former knowledge of the subject. Lyman wants to make sure you don't pick up cases that have an unknown history and get injured when they fail. It falls under liability.

As to your other issue, many handguns are now chambered with rifle cartridges (and thus need trimming and chamfering), and a lot of new brass is not as good a quality as it should be. Since several rimless cartridges chamber off the mouth of the case, it is important they be within specs for consistent performance. Take a set of calipers and measure some new brass and you will see what I mean. Then take a magnifying glass and examine the edge. Chances are you will find burrs on the edges. Does that mean you have to perform these steps? No, but then chances are you don't have to clean primer pockets, tumble cases, weigh bullets, etc., if you don't want to either.

Earlier posters are dead on when they state that Lyman doesn't make components like primers, cases and bullets (although they do make moulds), so they don't get caught up loads designed specifically for their own products like Speer does. Speer use to be my favorite until they were bought out and started hawking only the company line. But you shouldn't limit yourself to one manual anyway.
 
Well, let's see.

It's very well written. Has a great description of the use of the basic tools and what they do. They have some great advanced info articles that aren't simply a re-write of things found in other sources. Their loading data is well researched and they suggest which loads are potentially more accurate.

Other than that, the Lyman book doesn't have much to offer.

Anyone wishing best accuracy from any firearm, including hand guns, will do well to make the cases as consistant as possible. Most such ammo will need some degree of crimping and NO crimp can be consistant UNLESS the lengths are consistant.

People who load tons of hanggun ammo for "spray and pray" shooting have a lot of fun but they don't need to trim cases.

Chamfering helps avoid damage to the sensitive heel of bullets, jacketed or cast. Heel damage is certain to degrade accuracy, again not of much concern to a lot of high volume shooters.

No one has to trim or chamfer handgun cases. All Lyman is doing is telling us ways to load for better accuracy. I appreciate that.
 
I just happened to be flipping through Lyman's 49th this weekend. As I recall, they specifically stated that most straight walled pistol cartridges will never actually *need* to be trimmed. They did however, document the process so someone would know how in case they ever needed to.
 
I agree with the OP on the Lyman manual. I've had a lot of folks recommend it to me. I was fortunate to find one unsealed that I could leaf through. Glad I did b/c I found the lack of data/loads very disappointing. I was able to avoid spending the extra cash. I use the most recent Lee manual and Hodgdon's load data, and never found myself wanting. If necessary I consult with a reloading friend that has the Sierra manual.
 
I have yet to find any manual that has all the load information (data) that I am looking for. That's why I have (besides Lyman's manual) several manuals...I can find compliants for all the manuals I have. So what! Lyman's 49th (and all the ones I have used and I prefered the 46th edition) are a suplement to all the rest of my manuals.
 
I agree with The Bushmaster: No manual has anywhere near the info I need! I have every issue of "Handloader" magazine ever published, Ken Waters books, Wildcats, both volumes; and over a hundred others from pamphlets to Ackley's books, even a few of the highly sought after early Speer Wildcat Manuals.
Every one of them gets used!!!!!!!!!
 
+1

I agree on lots of manuals being a good thing.

But I am a big proponent of the Lyman #49, and am one who always recommends it as the best one manual you can get.
If you can only get one manual.

Nothing else begins to cover the wide array of bullet weights, styles, and shapes it offers.

And for sure, nothing else comes even close to the lead bullet data it offers.
Which a lot of new reloaders seem to be shooting & asking for load data from us lately.

rc
 
The Lyman book is only good for those who cast their own bullets.

There's also a lot of vague info in that manual.
 
Vague???

When I started reloading I had no mentor, nor was there a gun shop close enough to ask all the questions, nor did I have a computer.

All I had was Lyman's 46th edition, a press and dies, my years as a master mechanic and my good sense. Lymam's 46th Edition taught me how to reload...

Vague???
 
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