Mosin MOA

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SimplyChad

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Im currently playing around liking to blow a few grand when I get home. One of the thoughts was mosins for my rifle squad but I just realized I really dont know how well they shoot. (I might get a few for myself :) but i cant let the wife know that) So no conjecture or hearsay Mosin owners tell me how well yours shoot. In moa with and without upgrades what ever you got.
 
Mine are all M44's and M38's and stock without mods. Depending on the ammo they shoot around 4"-6" MOA with irons. I have some reloads worked up but haven't had a chance to check them out. My brother has a scoped 91/30 that shoots around 3" MOA. Most Mosins don't have target rifle accuracy. For a $90 rifle they are pretty good and cheap to shoot.
 
The Mosin-Nagant in its longer configurations is normally reported at about a 3 MOA.
According to Wikipedia, sniper exampes with bayonets and scopes can be 1MOA rifles.
With good ammo and a high quality new barrel, I'm betting the Mosin could be an MOA gun.
 
My cut down '43 izzy is a consistent 1.5" gun with a 4x pistol scope out on the barrel. Ive got a ATI mount coming in the mail, after I install that Ill see if I can improve the groupings a bit. I only shoot handloads so im sure that helps.
 
I've owned a half-dozen different Mosins including a M39. With good handloads, a little under 2" was pretty good with most going around 2 1/2 - 3". I've read here some folks saying they get 1" @ 100 yds. with surplus ammo, but I have to respectfully raise the B.S. flag on that one.

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35W
 
With a little bedding and minor trigger tweaks a mosin is easily capable of sub MOA groups. Think of them as project guns when you buy one. I have done this with many people present and they cant believe what they see. Once i let them try shooting mine they often beg me to make thiers a shooter.
 
Look for the Finn rifles. I have a M39, the best Mosin, with a scout scope that will shoot less than one inch with Privi ammo. I have a couple Finn 91/30s that will shoot around one inch with scout scopes. Yeah, I have old eyes and no longer can see iron sights. Your best bet would be a M39....chris3
 
I have a custom 91/30 that we built over a weekend that shot 5" @ 100 with iron sights and junk copper-wash ammo before we worked on it. After modifications, including a scope, it shot 1.5" to 2.5" consistently with junk ammo. I went to Silver Bear 203 grain bullets and it dropped to about 1.25" @ 100. Now, I'm loading my own, using 200 grain Match King bullets and it shoots under an inch. Best group with me shooting was a .375" @ 100 .

It was a "project gun" with my buddies at Teludyne Tech, and we cut 9" off the barrel and added a straightjacket. We cut a custom stock for it, and changed the bolt so I could weld a scope bridge on and mount my scope. It's a 68 year old rifle with a 67 year old shooter with cataracts... so maybe .375" ain't all that bad.

WT
 
It depends. Mosin-Nagants will tend to shoot almost any 54R, but not always well. So you have to take steps to match the ammo with the rifle. Part of my new Mosin break-in is to bench fire about half a dozen different types of ammo, from military light ball to commercial heavy and a mix of handloads.

In general, though, you can expect 3-4 inch groups at 100 yards with an average 91/30 Soviet and about 2 - 1.5" groups with an average M39 or Finn M91. With exceptional rifles, particularly Finns with the right tuned ammo, you can drive tacks. But it usually takes some work on your part. 54R comes in many flavors and from many nations.
 
I've found the Silver Bear ammo to be the best "box" ammo currently available in the market, and the bullet weights also affect the results of your shooting. The 203 grain bullets seem to work best at 100 yards and the 174 grain at 300 yards plus.

WT
 
Here are some different ammo in my Mosin. I have found, the groups open up quickly when the barrel heats up.

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Out of the store, my 91/30 was doing about 3" moa's... I worked on the barrel, just cleaning with J&B rouge for about 4 weeks. Gradually the black disappeared, and I could see the rifle'ing. I saw a minor accuracy improvement but wasn't really in tune with the different ammo. Then I read about corking the barrel. This is where you take a thin slice of cork about 1/4 inch square and no thicker than 1/32's of an inch. The three pieces go up under the first band equally spaced with one piece at the top and the two others towards the bottom. Don't ask me why, but my groups fell to 1" @ 100 yards when shooting from a bench with a rest. This was achieved using 7.62x54R Sellier and Bellot SP 180 which is a little high priced. I usually go to the gun shows and pick up a spam can of ammo (440 rounds) and can't tell you what country the stuff comes from, I really don't care. I've got about a 3 can back up now. Mine had an ATI rail system and bent bolt when I purchased it and I got a 50 dollar Wally world scope on top. Pretty stinking impressive for $150 bucks, and the 7.62x54r ammo packs a whollop plus its cheap enough that when I go to our range with my son, we regularly go through a hundred to 150 rounds. No matter what ammo you put through mine, its within MOA of Deer. Best all round purchase I've made in years.

KKKKFL
 
Ok the entire thought was as a project or minute of bambi gun. If they can hit a deer at 300 yrs thats all I ask. I also heard you could mess with the rear sight and put a cheap 1 inch tubed scope on it without belding the bolt any truth to that?
 
A $75 Nagant. Five shots @ 100 yards. Burris 10x I.E.R.

When I first got it , it shot a foot to the left. Stock was warped. Cut the stock out and shimmed the trigger spring. I had the scope and someone gave me the mount. Handloads with .310 123grain soft points. WW-760 powder.

White dot is one inch.
 

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100 yards on a NRA style 100 yard target. all in the black, X, 10 and 9. It would probably shoot better with a better shooter to be honest however. It's a 1923 with PU Scope mount using surplus ammo. PU Scope sit's high, no parallax so getting the same cheek weld each time is my major limit with groupings.
 
?

I don't shoot Mosins, but I am surprised that when accuracy is discussed, no one ever mentions Lapua and Norma ammo. I know it's expensive, but ???

After it is shot, the fire formed better brass could be carefully reloaded with better bullets and :uhoh:

Also, if you check the Lapua site, a Finnish Company, their 7.62 comes in .308 listed as the bullet for the 7.62x53/54R, not a .311. Norma of Sweden is probably the same.
 
I bought a 91/30 on Friday and took it out Sunday. My best group was around 3-4" @100 yards with a stock Mosin, shooting 1967 vintage Czechoslovakian surplus. I'm sure I could tighten that up a little as I'm not the greatest using leaf sights (prefer peep sights).
 
I don't shoot Mosins, but I am surprised that when accuracy is discussed, no one ever mentions Lapua and Norma ammo. I know it's expensive, but ???

After it is shot, the fire formed better brass could be carefully reloaded with better bullets and

Also, if you check the Lapua site, a Finnish Company, their 7.62 comes in .308 listed as the bullet for the 7.62x53/54R, not a .311. Norma of Sweden is probably the same.

When the surplus is cheap and plentiful why go through the trouble? I mean don't get me wrong, probably people out there that shoot the handloads for it but I'd rather just buy a box that was dug out of a field in Serbia and be done with it.

Plus I had some issues when I tried to reload a bunch of winchester brass with lee dies. Shaved off more brass then it reformed, had to send it into lee to get it customized.

On the plus side, have a die setup tailored to fit my rifle directly, on the other hand... I've still got 1,500 of various surplus rounds that get me decent enough accuracy lol
 
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