Lee Pro 1000 update

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ljnowell

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This may not interest many but for those few that have ever contemplated one of these presses but have been scared away by "horror stories" please read on.

I've been using the Lee Pro 1000 for around a month or so now. I've primarily used a lee turret, lee single stage, and loaded on a 550 in the past.

Many people complain about all the plastic. Yes, the casefeeder in mainly plastic, however it flat out works. My uncle with Dillon presses told me he wishes they made such a simple casefeeder for them(he just bought a Pro1k this weekend, btw, to load 44mag and 45 colt on). The case sensor is plastic also, big deal, again, it works perfectly.

I have now loaded 1k 380auto, 2300 38 special, and about 400 40 S&W on this press. I have had 1, again, 1 priming failure. It was my fault. I got out of rhythm and forgot to prime a case. This dumped 3.5 gr of AA#2 in the carrier and the next primer went in sideways. I didn't take anything apart, I simply cleared the shellplate, and blew it out with a can of compressed air. No more errors by me and no malfunctions by the machine. That could have happened with any machine, I believe.

I really find interesting that in all of those 38 special only two cases went in the feeder upside down. None of the 40s did, and the 380s had about eight or ten. I did not modify the casefeeder as many do to prevent that.

I do not want to cast stones or insult anyone, but I truly believe that those horror stories most post and all of us read are from people that do not follow directions well(some of that is Lee Precisions fault as their instructions are lacking) and when they become frustrated they push things and that causes part breakages.

People claim that a large amount of "tinkering" is required to keep these presses running. I do not believe that to be true. If you keep the machine lubed, take a few seconds to tape a piece if paper over the primer chute and keep a can of air to blow out the shellplate every 300-400 rds(just to get powder off it to keep it out of the priming station) it will run dead reliable with no tinkering at all. Oh, yes, and keep the chute full of primers. When the tray is empty I run out about four more primers to make sure there is room to reinstall the tray. That's it. The priming system just works.

I don't necessarily consider myself an expert in this press but it's very simple and I have already helped a few people troubleshoot online.

Oh, yeah, what everyone always asks, I can do 350 an hour without trying to push it at all. That includes refilling the case collator, primers, and powder. I could easily push that to 450 or 500 if I wanted too. I believe that a steady pace helps prevent malfunctions also.
 
Thanks for this. I use a Lee Classic Turret but have considered a Pro 1000 to up the production rate. Your comment on keeping it lubed is also true for the LCT. Failure to keep it lubed guarantees failures. I use a spray on Teflon lube that works really well.
 
put in a load master
i have been using a 4 hole turrent
the load master if left setup for one caliber (i just cant do that!!) runs like champ
thinking a pro1000 for 40 would be nice
as my bullets seem to seat and crimp easy at the same time
or maybe another load master hummmmmmm
 
My only aversion to the pro 1000 is having only 3 positions because I like to use a Factory Crimp Die and thus prefer having 4 positions.
 
celem, resize/deprime and prime separately (either press prime or hand prime).

Then you can flare/powder drop on Station #1, seat bullet in Station #2 and crimp/FCD on station #3. Using resized cases on any progressive press makes operation smoother and produces less shell plate tilt/flex for more consistent OAL/COL.

Problem solved. ;)
 
Your comment on keeping it lubed is also true for the LCT. Failure to keep it lubed guarantees failures. I use a spray on Teflon lube that works really well.
What is their to lube on the LCT besides the ram (shaft?)?
 
My Pro1000 primed good for about the first year or two, then I slowly started having trouble. It's a shame to because I could feel such a positive seating with the Pro 1k.

I bought mine in 1992 and it's getting a little loose but it's no where near ready for a replacement. I've taken it out of service a couple times but after I quit priming on it I couldn't ask for a better little press for the money. I was thinking of buying another LNL-AP but lately I've been considering another pro1k instead. I've never had timing problems with mine at all ever. After all these years I still haven't used the spare plastic gears that came with it.

I know what your saying about the case collator, they work fantastic for all the more there is to them.

Because mine is so old I've often wondered if the new ones have a better priming system. They look the same but I can't tell from pictures.

Good luck with yours and good loading.
 
tightgroup tiger said:
Because mine is so old I've often wondered if the new ones have a better priming system. They look the same but I can't tell from pictures.
One of three Pro1Ks I have is the new model with the roller handle I bought earlier this year (I sold my oldest one to a reloader in need with freebies and reloading components) and it still has the same priming attachment.
 
Looked a the Pro, but settled on a Classic 4-postion turret. Have it set up for 9mm, and am really happy with the results. I size/decap on a separate ss (etiher RC or Partner press), and hand prime all cases off-line in 500 lot qtys. Flare, Powder-thru seating, and Factory crimp dies are in place. This leaves an open position on the turret that I use as a waypoint to indicate the processing of the next cartridge.

Just finished calibrating the AutoDisk (the .34 cc cavity is dead-on) to drop 4.0 gr of Ramshot Zip for .38 spl on a separate turret. Nice to know that when I'm ready to switch back to 9 all I'll have to do is swap out the turret and shell holder.

Kinda hard to beat this system for the price!
 
My Pro1000 primed good for about the first year or two, then I slowly started having trouble. It's a shame to because I could feel such a positive seating with the Pro 1k.



I bought mine in 1992 and it's getting a little loose but it's no where near ready for a replacement. I've taken it out of service a couple times but after I quit priming on it I couldn't ask for a better little press for the money. I was thinking of buying another LNL-AP but lately I've been considering another pro1k instead. I've never had timing problems with mine at all ever. After all these years I still haven't used the spare plastic gears that came with it.



I know what your saying about the case collator, they work fantastic for all the more there is to them.



Because mine is so old I've often wondered if the new ones have a better priming system. They look the same but I can't tell from pictures.



Good luck with yours and good loading.


I used a 4 hole turret for many years. My problem is that I shoot 500 38 specials per week and then more 45s, etc. I don't mind loading the low volume 45s on my turret but pulling that handle 2000 times to make those 500 38s was killing me. I have a bad back, lots of nerve damage and partial paralysis from it. This press has been my salvation.

Yep, I actually referred to a Lee Progressive as my salvation, lol. I used to always post that I would never own a Lee Progressive, you could find it in my post history. I guess I'm a hypocrite or a liar, but I will admit that I was wrong. I listened to too many of the wrong people.
 
i have various lee presses but have grown to like the loadmaster for no other reason than its easier/faster and less expensive to change calibers by changing the shellplate. its a PITA to change just the plate on the pro and if you change the whole carrier its a little costly. i do prefer the case feeder on the pro1000 as its simple and doesnt need fine adjustments as the loadmaster.
 
I considered the loadmaster too therealwormy, but I didn't car for priming on the upstroke of the ram. I like the feel of the 1k priming it's more like the LCT.

As far as the shellplate, I just take a Philips screwdriver and take out the case sensor screw, the ejector screw, and use a 1/4" nut driver to loosen the center hex rod. Plate comes right off. Install is reversal but only takes a couple minutes to do. Drop in new turret and hook up powder measure chain and you are set. Well, sometimes you have to change the casefeeder or adjust it, but that's just two 7/16" nuts.
 
As far as the shellplate, I just take a Philips screwdriver and take out the case sensor screw, the ejector screw, and use a 1/4" nut driver to loosen the center hex rod. Plate comes right off. Install is reversal but only takes a couple minutes to do. .

About the same thing I do, except I just push the case sensor out of the way, I don't mess with that screw.

I have 2 Pro 1k's, one for large primers, one for small. That's the only caliber conversion I ever do.
 
About the same thing I do, except I just push the case sensor out of the way, I don't mess with that screw.



I have 2 Pro 1k's, one for large primers, one for small. That's the only caliber conversion I ever do.


I was going to do that, but not having a spare I didn't want to run the risk of breaking the sensor.

Eventually I am going to pick up another for loading my large primer stuff. I may try to find a used one without dies, like a bare press. I already have both casefeeders so a bare press would work just buy the other stuff to go.

The problem is that with all the made up stories if people "throwing them in lakes" you would think they would be dirt cheap to buy used, but they aren't. By the time you buy a shellplate and an extra turret most used presses are close enough to new prices you might as well buy new and get an extra casefeeder and a set of dies.
 
I think most of the folks bashing the Lee have not owned one, and need to justify the stack of money they paid for a press of a different color. Seriously, changing the oil in your car is 10x more challenging than keeping a Pro 1k ticking.

I have found them to be simple to maintain, and durable. I have been loading on them since 1995 or so, and other than nylon gears and bead chain parts I haven't really needed to replace anything. As long as you keep the powder off the primer feed, it just keeps going.

As far as the case feeder goes, I don't use them (or the bullet feeder.) That gives me better access to the shellholder area, and it gives me one more chance to handle each case to find splits or the .380s that wander into the 9mm pile. Without the bullet feeder, i can shine a light into the charged cases for a last visual inspection of the charge.

I still run 100 rounds through in 20 minutes or so, which is plenty fast for me. After doing rifle cases, it seems like loaded rounds just fly out of the pistol press like magic.
 
I have a p1k I leave set up for .45c. Bought it years ago. Only real problem it has ever had is the wire that knocks loaded cases out of the shellplate wouldn't stay in place so I used one of the flat springs instead.

I say I leave it set up but when I want to load more than 50 or so casull at a time I will adapt it for that job. In that scenario I size & prime first, then run the expander with a funnel (no powder measure), seater, and crimp die. I have a Lyman 1200 scale/powder measure I run in auto mode (it fills the pan and beeps, then when it detects the weight of the empty pan it does it again) for measuring the charges. I do this for consistent max loads. If the charge isn't correct to the tenth I toss it and get another. Loading that way isn't that much more complicated (put a case, pull the leaver, pour the pan of powder in, push the lever, set a bullet, repeat) but it does require I FL size and prime first. Not a big deal for me since I like to inspect the cases as I do that.

One nice thing about the Lee is you can buy a lot of the parts and assemblies separately. E. g. you can get the shell plate alone for $15, or an entire shell plate carrier assembly complete with primer feed for $35. The shellplate carrier swaps very easily. I am debating getting another 1000 for 10mm or just a carrier etc.
 
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Glad to hear the 1000 isn't as bad as some say.
Come to think, if it were, it wouldn't still be made and selling.
Most folks are not very technically savvy.
Not much talent for using gizmos, and even less for tuning and adjusting, if/when required.
It's easier to complain than learn.
I have a lot of Lee stuff and it's very good value.
 
I love my pro 1000, but the powder measure sucks. It's SO all over the place. Set to 5 grains, I've measured drops at up to 5.5 and as low as 4.3. Consistency is ****E so I hand load every case. I still use the press for decap/priming/bullet seating. But I don't trust the powder system as far as I could drop it.
 
lj,
Glad to hear that it's not true what Ive heard, that you have to stand on one leg to get some things working on it. Spin around twice, tap your head 3 times...that type stuff:)
 
Ram, rotation shaft, circular shellholder collet especially the detent ball. Also, lubing the safety primer head greatly improves reliability. I use SuperLube Dri-Film lubricant from Ace Hardware.
Ahh, ok. I better get to lubin' then. I do prime off press though so I don't have any primer stuff to deal with.

Back on topic.
 
I love my pro 1000, but the powder measure sucks. It's SO all over the place. Set to 5 grains, I've measured drops at up to 5.5 and as low as 4.3. Consistency is ****E so I hand load every case. I still use the press for decap/priming/bullet seating. But I don't trust the powder system as far as I could drop it.

What measure are you using, Autodisk or Adjustable Charge Bar? That is very atypical, and we can help you fix that. I have some powders that end up being .1 grain high or low, but 231, 296 and other fine powders are usually dead on.
 
I agree with Maxx. My PAD/adjustable charge bar is **dead nuts accurate.

Maxx, the mod for the ACB I got from you is golden. I was dropping 3.2 of BE over and over and over yesterday with it. Pretty sure it wouldn't do that before.

**I don't really know exactly what "dead nuts" means, but everyone else says it so it must be ok:D
 
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My son recently bought the Pro 1000 for 9mm. He fiddled with it some before he got it right but I was so impressed with the way it worked, I will be ordering one for myself. I also have a friend that at the Dillon 550 and he is always having trouble with it (and it cost a lot more than the lee).
 
I love my pro 1000, but the powder measure sucks. It's SO all over the place. Set to 5 grains, I've measured drops at up to 5.5 and as low as 4.3. Consistency is ****E so I hand load every case. I still use the press for decap/priming/bullet seating. But I don't trust the powder system as far as I could drop it.


I'm curious what powder you are using and if you are using the adjustable charge bar or discs? It's very unusual for the Lee autodisk to be that unreliable.
 
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