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Indeed. Are you sure it's the mechanism and not the difference in polymer frame vs. steel frame?
Striker Fired versus S/A Accuracy
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Indeed. Are you sure it's the mechanism and not the difference in polymer frame vs. steel frame?
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That is not an accurate (pun intended) statement.
Technically an "ignition system" that has a faster lock time is inherently more accurate than one that is slower. If two firearms are equal in all other mechanical factors that affect accuracy, the firearm having an "ignition system" with a faster lock time will be more accurate.
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Nom de Forum
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We are not talking cap n ball here.
The difference between a modern hammer and striker is probably measured in the hundred of thousands of seconds now a days, or relatively insignificant.
The phrase "relatively insignificant" is not a synonym for the phrase "doesn't have anything to do with" that you posted in commenting on lock time. Those "hundred of thousands of seconds now a days" you dismiss with a comment about "not talking cap n ball here" does contribute significantly enough to be a consideration in both pistol and rifle precision shooting. It is more important for rifles because of the greater distance to targets. You know we had a thread about this last year that explains the significance of shorter lock time. Did you forget about your participation?
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=743311
BTW, the Glock is faster than the 1911.
tarosean said:
I wouldn't be too sure of that.
If you look towards rifles for examples, the lock time of a bolt rifle (striker) is about 4 milliseconds, whereas that of an AR15 (hammer) is 4-fold longer, or about 16 milliseconds. Lock times in the milliseconds is 100 times longer than hypothetical lock times in the hundreds of thousands of seconds.
At any rate, the point is largely moot, since the difference between striker and SA guns goes well beyond lock time.
OP
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TomJ
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I had a chance to go to my gun club today with my G23 and XDM 4.5 9mm. First, I changed the grip insert on the XDM from the smallest to the largest, as I noticed that with the thinner grip I was using the knuckle on my trigger finger as opposed to the pad.
I focused on using the pad of my finger as well as trigger control, mainly pulling straight back on it. The difference was noticeable. At 21 feet, just about everything was in the 9 circle. They ranged from the X to the left side of the 9 circle, so I'm still pulling a little left, but the groups were substantially tighter. It's an outdoor range, and unfortunately it started to rain so I had to cut it short, but the tips everyone provided helped quite a bit. I still have my work cut out for me, but it looks like I'm on the right track. Thanks.
I focused on using the pad of my finger as well as trigger control, mainly pulling straight back on it. The difference was noticeable. At 21 feet, just about everything was in the 9 circle. They ranged from the X to the left side of the 9 circle, so I'm still pulling a little left, but the groups were substantially tighter. It's an outdoor range, and unfortunately it started to rain so I had to cut it short, but the tips everyone provided helped quite a bit. I still have my work cut out for me, but it looks like I'm on the right track. Thanks.
Nom de Forum
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That is a far wiser thing for you to re-post than to imply in a post it does not matter at all.
BCRider
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You guys are all wound up over technical details when likely as not it's the shooter.
With a S/A trigger it's easy to pull back through the pretravel and feel the resistance of the sear to hammer hooks and then S/A pull your way through that relatively short pull. With a striker trigger it requires a longer build to the release point. Sort of like... oh yeah! Sort of like a D/A revolver! ! ! !
So I hate to say this but we come back to the old story of the shooter that is comfortable with and shoots well with a D/A revolver in D/A mode can generally shoot any gun well.
It may well be that the OP just needs to learn to use a nice even pull to where the gun surprises him.
I'm not at all partial to plastic guns (If I had to carry one on my belt all day I'd quickly change my tune ) and I'm not partial to the "rubber band" like feel of many striker triggers. But when handed a Glock or M&P I can shoot them about as well as my 1911 or my CZ or my revolvers. And I attribute that ability to a LOT of D/A revolver shooting.
With a S/A trigger it's easy to pull back through the pretravel and feel the resistance of the sear to hammer hooks and then S/A pull your way through that relatively short pull. With a striker trigger it requires a longer build to the release point. Sort of like... oh yeah! Sort of like a D/A revolver! ! ! !
So I hate to say this but we come back to the old story of the shooter that is comfortable with and shoots well with a D/A revolver in D/A mode can generally shoot any gun well.
It may well be that the OP just needs to learn to use a nice even pull to where the gun surprises him.
I'm not at all partial to plastic guns (If I had to carry one on my belt all day I'd quickly change my tune
) and I'm not partial to the "rubber band" like feel of many striker triggers. But when handed a Glock or M&P I can shoot them about as well as my 1911 or my CZ or my revolvers. And I attribute that ability to a LOT of D/A revolver shooting.In self defense shooting (fast and usually at close range), trigger pull is not that important. But on the target range, with trophies (and sometimes dollars) on the line, the longer sear engagement and variables involved with striker fire will almost always give way to hammer fire. The needs and capabilities of the shooter really will be of more concern than the type of lockwork involved.
Jim
Jim
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