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A mentor is probably the best way to learn to do anything...provided they know what they're doing. They can also tell you what equipment to buy and, most importantly, tell you what not to buy. Lyman makes a few good casting books. DON'T BUY JUNK! Buy quality, proven equipment and you'll only...
Tempilaq is good to see how if the case is heating up to the proper temp and how far down the case the heat goes. I use 650*. I want the necks to just start to turn red before the case moves out of the flame. There are numerous You Tube videos on this subject. What annealer did you get?
To prevent the brass from banging against the blades in the drum, I wrapped them with cardboard. This prevents the brass from damage. Just fill the drum with media so that it is close to spilling out and then add the brass. You can play around with the brass/media ratio. I leave mine in for 2...
I would use a bullet that is used in LE ammo. Also check the FBI ammo test results and see what bullet they like. You want a bullet that will have good terminal performance.
I start by depriming the brass. This allows the primer pocket to be cleaned and prevents air from being trapped in some cases thus preventing the liquid solution from cleaning the inside of the case.
Put the cases in an ultra sonic cleaner for 45 min. Solution is 1/4 teaspoon of Lemishine to 1...
Maybe I'm missing something but why would you expand the neck to .243"? Rather drastic. You might want to have the chamber checked to see if the chambering was done properly. Some gunsmiths aren't that good when chambering to an Ackley Improved. I never had any problems fireforming 22-250 brass...
I have loaded tens of thousands of rounds and have never had a problem with pins sticking in the cases. Rifle cases, pistol cases, large and small primer pockets. different size flash holes, never a problem.
BTW, I have never used pins to clean my brass. Sure, the brass comes out looking great...
Call RCBS and ask them if these new dies are small base dies. That's the only difference I can see with dies made just for AR rifles. As others have said, if your present dies are working, you're done. Your rifle's chamber doesn't need small base dies.
I have used this for years and it works great. Doesn't stick in flash holes. And if cared for properly it lasts a long time. Cleaning your brass with Lemishine first will make your media last a long time. Metal pins are just a hassle, can be damaging to the brass and you better make sure none...
This is just one of the reasons I don't use pins for case cleaning. Just too many things to go wrong. Soaking in Lemishine and then an hour or so in a walnut media tumbler gets the brass more than clean enough.
I have a KMS light on my Dillon 550 and it works great. Allows me to see the powder level and the amount of case flare. Also makes shell plate changing easier.
Use reloading manuals to find the loads you want. Who is to say that the posters on this site (including me) have the correct (and safe) answers?
I always check at least 3 different manuals to find a starting load as well as a max load.
Currently I'm using a RCBS trimmer with a drill motor attached. Also have the carbide cutter (highly recommended). This setup is very accurate. Looking for something that might be a little faster.
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