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+1000 From the Hodgdon website "Reduce H110 and Winchester 296 loads 3% and work up from there. H110 and Winchester 296 if reduced too much will cause inconsistent ignition. In some cases it will lodge a bullet in the barrel, causing a hazardous situation (Barrel Obstruction). This may...

SAO Springfield EMP DA/SA Sig P239 S&W 360PD The EMP and P239 are small enough for t-shirt summer carry, but large enough for accurate, controllable shots. The picture is of a P239 in 9mm

+1 on trying to find it in store. 80% of the brass I'm using now is from factory loadings. I've had good luck with the remington umc if you can find it. One good thing is that unless you're trying to max it out, the brass should last a while.

Mine gets tired of hearing about them from time to time, but even then I'm usually the one who keeps going on... and on... and on... ;)

Awesome tests! Very interesting to see the Speer short barrel .44 magnum out of an Alaskan. That's what's loaded in my Alaskan at the moment and it's good to see that performs so well!

I'm looking to re-stock my vanguard deluxe 30-06, mainly because I don't want to run the risk of damaging the pretty wood stock. I've been thinking of the Bell & Carlson medalist. Does anyone have experience with the fit of the B&C's to the long actioned vanguards? Also, I was thinking of the...

I personally like the remington cases and have reloaded them many several times with no losses. I have winchester and hornady as well, and I find the winchester to be the least agreeable. I still load them anyway ;) .44 mag seems to be easy on brass, though I'm not trying to push the limits...

I use the RCBS bench primer mounted on a block of fireberglass-filled nylon. I can move it around to where I'm at, and I weight down the other end with lead. Usually the coffee table while watching TV.

Wow, that "terrorist" had an amazingly good american accent. Either way, which gun show was it where you can buy legal fully automatic weapons w/o a background check, NFA tax stamp, or even an ID? :rolleyes:

7.7x58 Japanese

Hmm... it almost looks like it's attached to something that is in the tube for the cleaning rod. Did the rifle come with the cleaning rod? and/or can they be removed by depressing the button on the left of the picture and pulling foreward?

I'll send you the bill for a new keyboard, as mine has coffee all over it now :D

I've tried the pliers method with 240 LSWC's in .44 magnum and it was a miserable failure. 2 mangled bullets that were still in the case and no progress made. +1 for kinetic/inertial pullers. Though, it took a while to pull the box of 50 I mis-loaded :banghead:

For my 9mm and .40S&W (since I don't reload for them anyway) I carry factory SD loads, more specifically the winchester ranger white box line, cheap enough to practice with and uses the same bullets as the $1+ a round stuff, just not as pretty and with brass cases. The one caliber that I...

Here are a couple from my 629.

Titegroup in 7.62x39 with 147 FMJ?! :scrutiny:

I have a pair of 6" dial calipers from Harbor freight and Mitutoyo. The HF are fine, the Mitutoyo are just better made and more repeatable. I use the Harbor Freight at work and the Mitutoyo for reloading.

I knew I shouldn't have watched the video of the woman speaking about the letter... :rolleyes:

I don't load for .40S&W, but with my .44 magnum, there's always some leading in the barrel near the forcing cone when I shoot a bunch. I always run a cyl or two of jacketed rounds through it before I'm done and it cleans it up. Could try that instead of scrubbing for an hour.

The Win brass I have for .44 seems to be a little thicker than the R-P brass. I have to expand it more than the R-P brass when I seat lead bullets to keep it from shaving lead.