1300 pumping issue

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Blue Brick

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I have a 1300 clone that will not fully eject just fired shells. It will fully cycle used empties from the mag to ejection. After its fired it partially opens on its own...just need to know what the trick is...

Sometimes it worked like a pro other times it wouldn't. But the empties worked 100%.

I used federal cheap dove shot and expensive buck shot and slugs.

Any thoughts?
 
Who made it? Is it Chinese? Or a store brand 1200/1300?

First make sure the ejector is actually in place. People can't figure out how to install them or how they work and they get lost. Should be a shiny metal flexible piece horizontally alongside the left inside of receiver.

Second what do you mean by won't fully eject? What exactly is happening?

Third, if you're using Winchester Universals, stop. They are universally garbage.
 
Sounds like a sticky chamber. Do you feel the shell is hard to remove from the chamber after firing?
 
I would start by cleaning/ polishing the chamber. Cheap gun factory chambers are notoriously rough then add the gunk left from cheap shells and you have extraction issues. Possibly the gunk in the chamber is stickier when hot from being fired?
 
I have a Win 1200, 12 ga. 2 3/4" bored modified. The barrel muzzle is too thin to bore out for choke tubes, but the 1300 is supposed to be a direct fit for the 1200, AND it has or can be drilled for choke tubes.

So, if you have a Savage 320 that is a Win 1300 clone, will the barrel fit a Win 1300?
 
I am confused . You say it partially opens on its own after you fire it . That is what it should do. Some loads will almost fully eject on their own, and some not at all . It is a pump after all. And no, 1300 barrels are not interchangeable.
 
I used federal cheap dove shot
There's your answer. I'll bet the buck and slug has steel bases like the dove loads do, too. I ripped the tip of my RH ring finger open mortaring out a stuck Federal Dove & Target hull that stuck in my 870, right in the middle of a Trap round. I finished the round and tended to it after. Glad it was a practice round though, I didn't wait to hear what I shot but, I lost a few more birds than I usually would have have!
Polish the chamber, as Kp321 suggests. This usually helps.
 
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I will try the polishing, but it cycled empties. My understanding most of the parts are the same. There is a guy on YouTube that changes out the trigger assembly. I can't remember if he switched the barrels.
 
Are you expecting it to fully eject the fired empties with no action on your part? I'm getting that vibe from your original post.
It's a pump-action shotgun that unlocks on firing. You must stroke the fore-end to the rear to fully eject and then forward to reload.
Apologies if I misunderstood your trouble.
 
No. But it cycles empties: from mag tube to the chamber, firing pin strike then launches them out on to the ground (All via me pumping the action). Just wanted to know what the trick was for fired rounds. It wouldn't eject 100%. Its a user error. Do I pump harder? Faster? Wait til it opens? The buck and slugs were Winchester and Federal.
 
Perhaps we are all confused because nobody uses empty fired hulls for function testing a shotgun. Are the crimps open? Closed? What chamber length? What hull base material?
All these will affect your 'empties' function check.
The fired rounds are sticking because you are shooting steel-based hulls; when they are fired they expand, but do not contract as quick as brass does to allow easier extraction. (I won't get into the metallurgy) They will eventually contract back down to where they will work for a function check, which is why you are puzzled that the empties cycle through just fine, but just-fired hulls will not extract well.
The solution is simple, and twofold; Polish the chamber, and try to avoid steel-based hulls if at all possible. I only shoot Winchester AA and only load those hulls, though I've noticed Remington STS and Nitro 27 hulls also have brass bases.
 
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