1851 out again, AKA, what the heck is the matter here?

[muzzleloader1960]

I really like this Pietta 1851 Reb revolver. Yeah. it's the cheapest you can get but it was a gift, and it's just plain fun.
I also had to try out some new toys in the picture, a plastic powder flask and a brass powder measure. Last time it was me loading with a plastic Lee dipper - took forever...this took less time. Still took a while.

View attachment 962944
So you will notice that today I was using #10 caps. Why? I had them and I wanted to see how they would work...the answer is TERRIBLE. I could not force them all the way on and in just 11 rounds I had MANY misfires, that fired the second time. The caps are just way too tight. However, I was also watching my son learn to shoot next to me, with a professional teaching him, so I didn't shoot all that much....obligatory photo, professional face blacked out as I don't have, and never WILL have permission to post his face. Son had a BLAST - hooked! SCORE!
View attachment 962945
Second target at ten yards actually didn't look too bad, as I was more concerned with getting the dadgum thing to FIRE than be slow fire accurate. Go figure. I also lowered the powder charge to 15 grains of the Holy Black, Goex FFFG.
View attachment 962946
Even though it was only 11 rounds, I still cleaned the ever lovin' daylights outa this thing. I will go back again with the #11s and see how it goes. I really, really, really want an 1858 now...but in the meantime this is my Biden proof revolver.

Experiment with different powder, powder charges, and you will tighten that group unbelievably...Enjoy!

 

[muzzleloader1960]

Ya know...you can have them slicked up to be way smoother than most cartridge guns and just as dependable. Put a torsion spring set up to replace the stamped steel trigger/bolt spring...adjust the cam and bolt timing, add a cap post and hammer sheild, tighten up the cylinder gap....and you will have a gun that is super smooth, never jams, and the brass frame will be able to handle stiffer loads. Lemme know if interested...i do the work and have done a few members guns here on the forum

Hi, you are right about slicking up the pistols. On my Ruger Super Redhawk, .44 mag, with 9 1/2" barrel, I shimmed up the hammer, dog ear, trigger, and smotthed out some other parts very carefully, replaced the hammer spring, and sear spring. That unit operates extremely smoother and the trigger pull in single & double much smoother and less resistance. Must be very CAUTIOUS when you do this!

 

[muzzleloader1960]

I wish I could afford such work, amigo. Poor state slave. It would be awesome.

If you take your time and find yourself a friend who is in to muzzleloaders, you can do this yourself, eventually. It is a matter of time, patience, knowledge, and definitely safety!

 

[muzzleloader1960]

Lol yes it can be expensive, i dont charge much as i dont do it for a living...i do it as more for a hobby to help forum members out with an affordable tune up... and to pay extra therapy sessions for my autistic daughter as shes 5 years old and only gets so many sessions covered by insurance. So i do this on the side...its a win/win situation for me and the customer...i get extra therapy for my daughter and the customer gets an affoedable slick up job on their gun to make it a whole lot more enjoyable. The difference is night and day when you use a tuned gun.

Kid, you seem to be a really good guy and really helpful to the newbies! Hard to find folks like you today. Keep the great attitude.

 

[muzzleloader1960]

sorry you had a frustrating time, it can happen. My worst even was last time I put lube over the top of the balls, and it was way too liquid. Forgot now what I used, but it was a warm day. Each shot sent showers of liquid into the empty neighbor chamber, and of course I didn't know this until I loaded them all again....and no bangs. I mean the back of the chambers were flooded with goo. Had to bring it home, pull the nipples, and put some water in chambers to make me feel safe, then use a small wooden dowel to drive out the balls from the back.

My rule is, that even if I just fire one round, it will get the full cleaning!

Hey guys, got an idea here for your problem. Go to https://www.bs-bp.com (BUCKSINS & BLACK POWDER). They have a blog there and a bunch of info on lubes, etc. The best idea I came out with from that site was to use wads. After I started using wads with my Repro 1847 Colt Walker .44 mag, never had a problem with any chamber domino firing or lube problems. I think you'll link the info they put out.

 

[muzzleloader1960]

Dont get discouraged. My 1851 44 was my first. It was a major disappointment for me. A heck of alot of trial and error, a ton of reading on here and endless hours watching you tube. I almost gave up on BP guns. There was a few times I would chunk it in the parts box. But I kept going back to it.

The cap rake, Stainless nipples Rem.caps fine Emery cloth on all of the internal parts, it worked pretty good. But when I opened the gap on the sheild... that was a turning point for me and the difference between a trout line weight and a shooter.

Never give up partner. Every BP ML shoots different. They are like a finger print, no 2 alike. Yes it can be frustrating until you understand them. Different bullet type, bullet weight, powder type, powder charge, for each is different. Might take a little work to find what each one likes. But when you find that sweet spot, damn, what a thrill!! Enjoy my friend, it gets better.

 

[armoredman]

I ain't givin' up. Arizona born and raised, ain't gonna give up until this baby shoots like Wyatt Earp is slingin' her!

 

[electricfactory]

If I could like this post twice I would. A 'win win' indeed, many thanks and good wishes to The Kid and family.

Lol yes it can be expensive, i dont charge much as i dont do it for a living...i do it as more for a hobby to help forum members out with an affordable tune up... and to pay extra therapy sessions for my autistic daughter as shes 5 years old and only gets so many sessions covered by insurance. So i do this on the side...its a win/win situation for me and the customer...i get extra therapy for my daughter and the customer gets an affoedable slick up job on their gun to make it a whole lot more enjoyable. The difference is night and day when you use a tuned gun.

 

[pops63821]

Ya know...you can have them slicked up to be way smoother than most cartridge guns and just as dependable. Put a torsion spring set up to replace the stamped steel trigger/bolt spring...adjust the cam and bolt timing, add a cap post and hammer sheild, tighten up the cylinder gap....and you will have a gun that is super smooth, never jams, and the brass frame will be able to handle stiffer loads. Lemme know if interested...i do the work and have done a few members guns here on the forum

 

[misskitty2]

go a little further and get a kirst converter

 

[J-Bar]

Fouling will accumulate in the barrel quickly and affect accuracy if no lube at all is used. Many use a lubricated felt wad between the powder and ball, but I like over the ball lube because I tend to fumble those little wads. A mixture of 50/50 beeswax and Crisco melted together (eyeball equal volumes, close enough) works winter and summer both. No need to completely cover the ball. Just scrape a wafer of the lube across the face of the cylinder to get some lube in the chamber’s mouth. A little bit makes a surprising difference in accuracy and ease of cleaning.

Below are two ways to skin the cat. There are others.


https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRERl0HLVN7BptKoKnuMo_A

 

[Lyle]

I have found that I get a better group putting the lube under the ball. I use a mixture of 1/3 beeswax and 2/3 soy wax. This is melted and put it a pie pan to cool. I use a 357 case to cut the wax disks. My pistol is not as accurate using the lubed felt wads. The soy wax is an excellent lubricant. I have shot 48 rounds without cleaning the barrel, cylinder or the action binding. The arbor stays nice and lubricated.

 

[arcticap]

I have found that I get a better group putting the lube under the ball. I use a mixture of 1/3 beeswax and 2/3 soy wax. This is melted and put it a pie pan to cool. I use a 357 case to cut the wax disks. My pistol is not as accurate using the lubed felt wads. The soy wax is an excellent lubricant. I have shot 48 rounds without cleaning the barrel, cylinder or the action binding. The arbor stays nice and lubricated.

Lube cookies, grease cookies or lube pills used to be very popular.
Of course folks had different recipes that suited their taste.
Folks used mixtures of crisco, paraffin, beeswax, soy wax, olive oil, bore butter etc....
pohill had a method of pouring the melted mixture into his Colt barrel to mold it into the shape he wanted, then pushing it out and simply cutting the wafers to size.

--->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lube-pill-question.398669/#post-4991039

 

[Cowhide Cliff]

Remington #10 are the best for my Pietta guns but they are the hardest to find.

 

[Lyle]

Lube cookies, grease cookies or lube pills used to be very popular.
Of course folks had different recipes that suited their taste.
Folks used mixtures of crisco, paraffin, beeswax, soy wax, olive oil, bore butter etc....
pohill had a method of pouring the melted mixture into his Colt barrel to mold it into the shape he wanted, then pushing it out and simply cutting the wafers to size.

--->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lube-pill-question.398669/#post-4991039

I started using 100% soy wax. That crumbled easier than I expected. The beeswax is used to firm up the soy wax. Beeswax has a higher melting point and that helps with our 100+ degree weather. I have also found that the gun is lubed better with the wax under the ball. I used the same mixture over the ball and the action was not as smooth.

 

[gtrgy888]

I really like this Pietta 1851 Reb revolver. Yeah. it's the cheapest you can get but it was a gift, and it's just plain fun.
I also had to try out some new toys in the picture, a plastic powder flask and a brass powder measure. Last time it was me loading with a plastic Lee dipper - took forever...this took less time. Still took a while.

View attachment 962944
So you will notice that today I was using #10 caps. Why? I had them and I wanted to see how they would work...the answer is TERRIBLE. I could not force them all the way on and in just 11 rounds I had MANY misfires, that fired the second time. The caps are just way too tight. However, I was also watching my son learn to shoot next to me, with a professional teaching him, so I didn't shoot all that much....obligatory photo, professional face blacked out as I don't have, and never WILL have permission to post his face. Son had a BLAST - hooked! SCORE!
View attachment 962945
Second target at ten yards actually didn't look too bad, as I was more concerned with getting the dadgum thing to FIRE than be slow fire accurate. Go figure. I also lowered the powder charge to 15 grains of the Holy Black, Goex FFFG.
View attachment 962946
Even though it was only 11 rounds, I still cleaned the ever lovin' daylights outa this thing. I will go back again with the #11s and see how it goes. I really, really, really want an 1858 now...but in the meantime this is my Biden proof revolver.

A lot of folks get cranky when I recommend this, but those #10 CCI caps will mold watertight around Uberti cones if you just press hard enough with hammer pressure while pointed downrange. I actually have 99% reliability with that method and less cap jams, so I use them for carrying. I use pinched #11’s as range ammo since they seat easier with a capper and jam more.