1862 Police Hammer Blowback Uberti

[whughett]

Is it normal for the hammer on this gun to blow back at firing. Of course the cap winds up under the hammer and on the next cocking fall into the action.
First thought it was just the standard colt thing with the hammer pulling the cap off at cocking. No, every shot the hammer blows back and sits on the fractured cap. Does this with a miniscule 10 grain charge. Gun is brand new, never been fired until this. Total of 15 shots, all the same.
Oversize flash hole in factory nipples, weak main spring, hammer spring?????.

 

[Prairie Dawg]

Both a weak hammer spring and large holes in the nipples will cause this.
Install Treso nipples, which have a much smaller orifice, and see if the problem persists.
If it cocks too easily, try a stiffer spring & see if the problem persists.
--Dawg

 

[72coupe]

A set of Track of the Wolf stainless steel nipples fixed mine. It was doing the same thing.

 

[leo96150]

Treso or Slix Shot nipples are a must anyways, so you might as well start by getting them now. Also check that the mainspring screw is tight as a loose screw can weaken the mainspring tension.

 

[Hellgate]

What 72coupe said. They fit the Remington #10 caps too.

 

[StrawHat]

I have a few of the little Colts, all Uberti, spanning the decades from 1973 to 2007. The factory mainspring has gotten progressively weaker during the timeframe. The springs in the 1973 versions could easily support a rail car. The ones in the 2007 are very "soft" to cock. I am not sure where the "happy medium" is but I prefer a heavier spring to a softer one.

 

[whughett]

Thanks for the input, its why I am a forum member.

Guess it is a process of elimanation then. I'll start with the nipples righ after I address the barrel stud issue. On the last shot of that outing it seems the barrel stud that the end of the loading lever clips into flew off into the wildblue yonder. Just hope that was a poorly fitted one in the dovetail and not an over size dovetail. Think I am going to try and return the piece to Dixie or Stoger for that.

The end of the plunger is apparently made for a conicial and when enough force is applied to the round ball to compress the charge it grips the ball and unseats it, pulls it right back out. A little work with a Dremel and stone should fix that.

It was a REAL crappy day at the range and I hope this isn't the start of a love hate relationship with this little piece.

The cylinder on this Uberti IMO makes this little piece one of the most attractive of the Colt opentops.

When I get back to my RI home and my wood shop I am going to make an attractive display stand for it and the Walker side by side and set it on the mantel. The Walker is a shooter hoping the 1862 is also.

 

[StrawHat]

whugett,

If you are going to try to return the revolver, do so BEFORE attempting any home remedies. DGW is notorious for refusing to work on guns that have been worked on outside of their shops.

Sorry about the lever catch, one f the first things I do with any new C&B is to make sure the catch is staked in place. Much easier than replacing one.

If DGW or Stoeger does not give you satisfaction, let us know, we will help you make it correct.

 

[rcflint]

The Uberti 36 caliber guns want a .380 ball to seat properly, I've had .375 balls roll back out of the cylinder.

The heavy mainsprings on cap & ball revolvers purpose is to hold the cap down upon firing. Lighter mainsprings allow the cap to blow off. Unfortunately, heavy mainsprings increase parts wear. The SlixShot and the Treso nipples permit a lighter mainspring due to lower blowback pressure.

Also, the Uberti 44 needs a .454 ball, not a .451.

 

[45 Dragoon]

I just happen to be workin on this very problem. Glad to know its a good prob to work on!!!!

 

[whughett]

whugett,

If you are going to try to return the revolver, do so BEFORE attempting any home remedies. DGW is notorious for refusing to work on guns that have been worked on outside of their shops.

Sorry about the lever catch, one f the first things I do with any new C&B is to make sure the catch is staked in place. Much easier than replacing one.

If DGW or Stoeger does not give you satisfaction, let us know, we will help you make it correct.

Good to know, beyond pulling the grips to check the mainspring have not done anything to it. I did however buy the gun second hand, Unfired NIB, but the orginial owner is working with me. And it did come from Dixie, however Stoger arms is the importer.

 

[whughett]

The Uberti 36 caliber guns want a .380 ball to seat properly, I've had .375 balls roll back out of the cylinder.

The heavy mainsprings on cap & ball revolvers purpose is to hold the cap down upon firing. Lighter mainsprings allow the cap to blow off. Unfortunately, heavy mainsprings increase parts wear. The SlixShot and the Treso nipples permit a lighter mainspring due to lower blowback pressure.

Also, the Uberti 44 needs a .454 ball, not a .451.

I have both .375 and .380 RB molds so once I get the gun up and running will try the larger.

 

[Pancho]

TOW nipples cured my ills and TOW made it simple by telling me that their SS nipples are designed to CCI #11 cap dimensions.

 

[StrawHat]

I run .380 in all my 36s. (Not sure why they even market a 375 mold except to sell more molds.) Same in the 44's, one size fits all, .454. It makes it easier for range trips, grab revolver, notice size, grab balls. After that, it is all the same whether 44 or 36, powder, caps, etc.

 

[whughett]

I run .380 in all my 36s. (Not sure why they even market a 375 mold except to sell more molds.) Same in the 44's, one size fits all, .454. It makes it easier for range trips, grab revolver, notice size, grab balls. After that, it is all the same whether 44 or 36, powder, caps, etc.

The .375 works best on the Texas Paterson, all others it is the .380.

 

[Mike 56]

My 1849 colt does the same thing. I am going to try making a sprig support that fits under the bottom of the hammer spring.