1891 Argentine Mauser

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fishinchris

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Hey Guys, I have an 1891 Arge. Mauser, chambered in 7.65x53. I can not get this rifle to shoot to My satisfaction, It has been cut down and re-stocked. I am considering re-barreling this beautiful Action. My first choice is 6.5x55 Swede,but I am worried about the Magazine box. The head size on the Swede Is larger than the Argentine Cartridge, but only slightly. Does Anybody have experience with this conversion?? Any input would be welcome! Thanks Fishinchris
 
the 6.5x55 is also about an 8th inch longer as well.. pressures about the same so the 6.5x55 being a bit wider should have a tad more bolt thrust, cant you find a 7.65x53mm barrel?, perhaps you could restore it back to its military configuration.. de-bubba it
 
It's your rifle and it sounds like the collector value has already been destroyed, so I wouldn't agonize much about further de-valuing it.

That said, unless you can get a good deal on a 6.5x55 barrel and do the work yourself, you'll probably be spending far more than the rifle is worth on the barrel swap.

If you want a 6.5 Swede, just buy one that was made that way.
Cost will probably be similar to modifying the '91 and you'll end up with 2 rifles.

In my opinion the '91 Mauser action just isn't worth trying to turn into a custom sporter.
 
Why the Swedish caliber? 7.65 ammo is very simply made from 30-06 brass. Remove the decapper, grease up the 06 case and run it into the 7.65 full length die. Trim to length. Done. 311 bullets are easy to find.

You mentioned the gun isn't shooting to your satisfaction. Whats the crown look like? If it isn't right, fixing it would probably make the gun shoot just fine.
 
Actually I think the 1891 can be a fine sporter, but honestly I don't know of anyone that has tried a conversion to 6.5x55. I handload Speer .311 bullets and it shoots like a champ. My loads are pretty slow, around 2250 fps, but they work fine for deer and pigs at reasonable ranges.

1891mauser.jpg

The first things I would look at are the crown, and the stock fit, as already mentioned by others. If it's been restocked and the fit isn't right that can cause serious issues that won't be fixed by rebarreling.
 
Nice rifle, browningguy! I think it is the Magazine that turns a lot of people off. It gets in the way when you sporterize the gun.. I'm betting that pretty little sporter in the picture is a bit awkward to carry. The Magazine probably sticks out right at the balance point of the gun, making it difficult to get a comfortable grip.

Still, it is a good looking rifle. I have two 91s, one mint in 99% except for the missing crest (damn it!) and one in good shape with a bad bore. Since it will HAVE to be re-barreled I might try to sporterize it some day but I plan on staying with the original caliber.
 
What ammo are you shooting? I have a 1909 that doesnt shoot the surplus better than 4 moa. But it shoots the commercial well. Yours my be the other way around.

Browning's photo isn't a sporter. It is either an Engineers carbine or a Mountain carbine. Cool issue carbine.
 
Cheap fixes first--is your rifle's stock in good shape. Recoil lugs in old gunstocks can split, be oil soaked, uneven compression of the wood underneath the receiver, etc. This can cause patterns like a pepperoni pizza. Check to see if the receiver surfaces around the action screws mates well with the trigger guard. Corroded and rough surfaces in these mating areas can cause problems.

Second, is your barrel free floated or do you still have the handguards, barrel bands, etc. on it. If it is free floated, then use the dollar bill or index card method of checking to make sure that the barrel is not touching the stock. However, your barrel might do better as some do with a pad of cork etc. right at the tip of the forestock to put some upward pressure on it. If your rifle still has the handguard, barrel bands, etc. make sure that they are tightened to the proper specification (usually, not always, hand tight).

Last, but not least, check the barrel crown--even small nicks can affect accuracy. Does your barrel have pitting--this can make a barrel foul quicker which affects accuracy. If your barrel is worn, then consider using flat based bullets rather than boattail in fmj. And of course, make sure that your sights are properly attached whether iron or scope.

Do one cheap fix at a time and evaluate improvements using the same ammunition--Prvi Partisan has some very good ammo for this. With a little work unless the barrel is very worn, most guns can be made to shoot within military specifications, usually about 3-4 inches at 100 yards and perhaps a bit better specifically working up handloads tailoring the bullet to the bore etc.

PS, if you want a Swede--Samco had some worn swede barrelled actions for a reasonable price--Swedes are easy to rebarrel and relatively cheap spare parts such a trigger guards are around at places like Numrich and Sarco. Fleabay often has small ring mauser stocks for a cheap price. Bought a T38 Swede stock for $10 with a split toe--easy fix. As usual, YMMV.
 
Indeed, I believe it's an engineers carbine sporterized in the 50's by Williams with the fancy stock engraving and peep sight. Apparently this was the thing to do back in the day.
 
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