1897 Winchester Questions

[Quoheleth]

My family has an old Winchester 1897 12 gauge - wondering if anyone is able to help me get some information on it.

The receiver is labeled on the bottom of the gun, between the loading area and magazine, with the capitol letter E and below it 456XXX. On the magazine is the number 455XXX.

On the top of the barrel there are a series of patents, the last of which reads "Dec 25 06" (not 1906). On the barrel, just fore of the receiver is a Capitol P on top of a W (if you know what the Christian Chi-Ro is, it looks like that except a W instead of X) surounded by a circle.

It's a full-length barrel, not trench length, with a regular brass bead front sight. The gun has been used a lot, most recently when I was in high school in the late 80s/early 90s when I used it for turkey.

I'm curious about ballpark DOB, why the different SNs, and if the gun is (theoretically) safe to fire. I'm at least the 3rd generation in my family to have it and use it.

Thanks in advance,
Q

 

[ReloaderFred]

Your gun was built circa 1910. The mismatched serial numbers mean that the top end (barrel, etc.) came from another gun, which was also made in the same year. The stampings are proof marks, meaning the gun withstood the proof loads at the factory before it was sold. There should also be a word on the left side of the barrel, just in front of the receiver, which tells you what choke the gun has, i.e.: Full, Modified, etc.

A gun from that era will most likely have a short chamber, having been made for 2 5/8" roll crimped shells. With a takedown gun, it's a simple matter to have the chamber reamed and the forcing cone relieved. This should cost roughly $50.00+/- to have done.

As for being safe to fire, that would depend on several things. First, is there any play between the barrel half and the receiver half? If so, there is an adjustment cog that will take up the slack, if it's not already maxed out. If so, then there are shims available that work fairly well.

Another area to check is the receiver itself, to check for cracks. These are mostly confined to the thin area where the barrel and action join. Also check for missing parts, etc.

Just for information, my wife shoots a Model 97 that was built in 1899 for SASS, and a friend of ours shoots one built in 1897, the first year they were made. With the proper care and feeding, they're great old guns. I was shooting one that was made in 1912, until I found one that was made in 1954 and made that my match gun.

Hope this helps.

Fred