1911 Disassembly/Reassembly

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Frog48

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Today I picked up my brand new Springfield 1911 GI. I disassembled it with no problem, in order to clean it up. Then I went to reassemble it, and the dang "slide stop" was tough to get in. It felt like it was hung up on the slide, but it wasnt. I have no idea what the problem was. After messing with it for about a 1/2 hour, I finally got it to slide in.

Is this normal? Does something loosen up after its broke in, making reassembly easier?

This really irritated me, because in the process, with oily hands, the slide stop spun around and scratched the brand new stainless steel slide. Needless to say, I'm not happy.
 
Hey, everyone goes through the "idiot mark" at least once on a new 1911! (Or so it seems!)

I think the problem you're describing has to do with the plunger getting in the way of pressing the slide stop all the way in, correct? The way I do it is just kinda wiggle the slide stop between my thumb and index finger (think small back-and-forth arcs) until the stop pops in over the plunger. I think some people even use tiny screwdrivers or the like to depress the plunger in while they install the slide stop.
 
Grant, as I too found out, the 1911 slide stop is tricky at first. I found out that lining it up and then kind of pushing up toward the slide as I push in toward the frame works best. Hopefully that helps.
 
Well, now that you have put the dreaded scratch on it, everything should be okay:D

It's not all that uncommon for brand new 1911's to be difficult to get the slide stop back in place. Some guys will take a very thin piece of metal, such as a thin screwdriver or a feeler gauge leaf and hold that pesky detent pin back in the spring tunnel and push the slide stop up and in.

I sure remember the first civilian 45 I ever bought. Brand new Colt Series 70 in nickel. As uncle sam had issued me a well broken in 1911A1, I figured it was gonna be a snap! Nope-had to fiddle with it. After a while, it went right in.
 
Thanks guys. I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one! :D

I've fired 1911's before, but because this is the first one I've owned, this is the first time I've taken one apart and put it back together. Hopefully things will go together smoother in the future, since I'm no longer "totally" clueless.

On a side note, it came oily as heck. It was downright nasty. I've never bought a gun that came quite as gunked up from the factory. I'm glad I cleaned it up and lightly oiled it before taking it to the range.
 
Grant, you sound like my kind of guy.....I recall how embarrassed I was and many a posting pic always showed the opposite side...:D Anyway, I look at it as a "badge of membership". BTW, I found Ugaarguy's technique has worked for me...
 
After messing with it for about a 1/2 hour, I finally got it to slide in.

You did better than me. When I got my Springfield GI, I messed around with that thing for at least a good hour before I finally gave up and decided to come back later. I think the trick I finally figured out to get it back in was the back-and-forth arcs, but in the meantime, I really got the red thumb, so to speak. :D
 
If it was just a tight plunger, you will get used to it; however, some things to look for:
Make sure that the link (the little piece with a hole in it that hangs down from the middle of the lower lug legs and that the slide stop goes through) is visible in the slide stop hole--the hole on the link seen in the hole in the frame. It can get hung-up in the up position and not be avalible for the slide stop to slip through.
Also, make sure the barrel is going back with the slide when you are moving it back to line-up the slide stop cut-out. Some times the barrel will be forward and that will also make the slide stop and the pull-down link not line-up.
Finally, there are photo's on the web on how to avoid the dreaded idiot mark. The simplest way is to insert the slide stop (make sure the mag catch is not going to slide along the edge of the frame and make that idiot mark when you press it down). With slide stop kept slightly off the frame, place the mag catch so that it is just at the very bottom edge of the retaining hole in the frame--where it will go to hold the slide stop in. Then click it "up" and down into place--sliding it under the plunger from below. This makes it go in a lot easier than straight down into the frame--if you look at the mag catch it will be slighly beveled on the top edge so it slides up and under easier--without marks.:D
 
I use a piece of tape on the frame, just below the hole where the slide stop will go in, so I don't have to worry about marking the frame. Then, as I'm sliding the stop up against the plunger, I put my other hand on the slide to catch it if it slips. I put a nice arc on my Champion when I first got it, and hated it enough that I sold it rather than look at that stupid mark all the time. Now I don't have any problems.
 
Welcome to the world of 1911s! If there's one thing I don't like about 'em it's re-assembly (Gaston got that right).

Sure you're lining up the right holes. If you do it should slip in without a hernia.
 
Well, I've never had any problems with my personal 1911s, but I've found some of the Mil-spec and GI 1911s from SA have really stiff plungers that just plain refuse to budge. That can cause for one hell of a frusterating session trying to put in the slidestop! :rolleyes:

So maybe it's only half you, and half the gun. :D
 
If you learn to put your thumb on the slide directly above the slidestop cut out, you don't get the idiot mark. T
The Slide stop should have a very slight bevel on the side facing the detent pin. push it in, keeping it just below the detent, as you get it to touch the frame, then just add a little up pressure toward your thumb and it will slip right in.
 
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