1911 guide rod

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BP Hunter

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I have a question on the 1911 guide rod. My Taurus has a full length guide rod and I have been eyeing the Remington R1, but has a short guide rod. Does it make any difference at all in the function of the pistol, accuracy, and/or reliability?
 
I changed my full length rods out of my 1911s. I am unaware of any real benefit from the full lengths.

I think they were to give greater stability for Bullseye 1911s, but I don't think they have been shown to be any better.

Regular GI rods are fine ( I see them all the time in Bullseye guns ) and they are 50 times easier to break down than guns with full length rods
 
The idea IS ---- to better stabilize the spring by controlling it from the inside. How much better it stabilizes it versus the dust shield enclosure?????? A little for sure. does it really effect function? Probably NOT..
If Professional race gun shooters are anything like professional race car or motorcycle drivers... There is NOTHING on there equipment that not there to make them go faster.

As for take down.. it's NOT 50 times harder. In some cases it's actually EASIER.. I can pop the slide off my STI commander with full length guide rod faster than I can my 5" Springfield with standard guide rod.
 
You're going to get every answer under the sun on this topic. I run full length, one-piece rods in my 1911s. Do I think they're more accurate? Nope. Do I think they are maybe more reliable? Nope, probably not.

It comes down to me thinking that I like the IDEA of a full length guide rod. It just seems to me that it is more "precision" that a spring of that size has a nice smooth rod to slide on. No side to side motion, no problems anywhere. And before you ask, no I never had any problems without the guide rods either! :) I just LIKE them. It's a very subjective thing.

I can't cite any study or scientific reason why a guide rod is a good thing. I simply like them... and Greg528it is right. Your pistol is NOT harder to take apart. Anyone who has owned a 1911 for a little while will be able to take it apart just fine.

I only have ONE conclusion based on personal experience regarding guide rods... a 2-piece guide rod CAN unscrew itself while shooting. It has happened to me. It loosened a couple of turns - it never fully came apart. So... I only run one-piece guide rods.

Now, the $64,000 question... do you put a shock buff on there too? :)

I do, and they work just fine too.
 
Perhaps I misspoke. The full length ( but 2- piece) rods for me were 50 times harder to take apart. Having to break out the Allen wrench was becoming a pain for me and I didn't see any gain in performance. So i switched to GI.
 
This thing has been discussed many, many times and no real conscience about it. I like 'em in my guns and it's a personal decision.

There are many other guns with the same guide rod set up and we never even think about it. Glock, BHP, S&W, Sig to name a few. All come with full length rods and no one says a word. Why?
 
I've only owned a one-piece, full-length style rod, and I prefer it over the short guide rod style. I can say though, that it's purely preference. There isn't any advantage unless you like the way the guide rod looks below the barrel when the slide is racked. Others prefer to be able to use a plug/cap with a design or checkering on the front.

The only thing I would stay away from is the two-piece guide rod assembly, just because they're unnecessarily complex.
 
I have one 2 piece guide rod in an officer's model. Otherwise, I run 1 piece guide rods. I like the idea of a rod guiding the spring rather than having it ride on the frame. I don't think the 1 piece guide makes field stripping significantly more difficult. Also, keep in mind that if you buy a gun without a full length guide rod, it is about the easiest part there is to replace...
 
I have one 2 piece guide rod in an officer's model. Otherwise, I run 1 piece guide rods. I like the idea of a rod guiding the spring rather than having it ride on the frame.

Look carefully. There are only five unsupported coils with about a tenth-inch of space between them. By the time the slide has moved a half-inch, the spring is contained on the inside by the guide and on the outside by the plug. At full slide travel, the spring is completely encapsulated on its OD and ID. It can't deflect or "ride the frame."

Sometimes what we believe isn't the reality.



Gun20Fired.jpg
 
Accuracy? I doubt it makes any difference.

More mass up front? Slightly.

The feeling that you built an ultra target 1911? Priceless.

I bought a Wilson Combat 1 piece full length guide rod. It is one well machines piece of alloy steel for $30. I've run it mainly in my Sig Target and my Colt Rail. It does make it seem like I'm back on target a lot quicker. Probably 100% mental and 10% feelings.
 
OP,
I have an FLGR in my 1911 and it does make it rack a bit more smoothly and I think I perceive a bit less felt recoil. I'll leave it in the gun but I wouldn't buy it again if I had it to do over.
FWIW
YMMV
 
My experience, the full length guide rod gives slightly smoother operation than the GI setup, it's very subtle, but noticeable.

I do think a full length guide rod helps a 'loose' gun return the slide into battery more consistently.

At any rate, I use full length rods on target guns and the two piece on combat weapons.
 
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I have a Wilson 2 piece guide rod on my 5" Springfield. To date it's never loosened during a range visit. Even if it had, the thread engagement is so long that I'd notice it backing out LONG before it was even close to falling out. It'd be sticking out nearly a half inch before it fell off the last thread.. I'd notice at 1/32" or 1/16" cause I tend to look at my gun between mag changes, or at least every 4-5 mag changes if running thru 4-5 in succession, but that's just me. If the end did unscrew, the portion remaining in the gun is the same length as a standard guide rod and would act just like it.

Some guys will complain about having to have an allen wrench on hand to remove it, but don't seem to complain about having to reach for a bushing wrench. I carry the allen wrench in my range bag, just as if I would carry a bushing wrench if I had a gun so tight it needed one. I think it's the same guys who go on about how JMB designed the grip screws with flat screws specifically so you could strip it with a brass case (oh by the way, allen and phillip head fasteners where not invented until 20-40 years AFTER 1911) but ONLY use gun smith screw drivers they store at home to remove the grips. :)
 
If the pistol has a full length guide rod, it ain't a 1911. It's a somepin else. Maybe call it a clone or a pseudo-Colt-Browning but 1911 it ain't.
 
(I had to look up Persiflage)

but now that I know that I know it is French in Origin. And that i also know that Moxie is a Maine invented soda ( filled with French-Canadians), I must assume that 36.028 actually means 36 Thousand times more difficult.

(As we all know, the Euros use decimal points as we use commas ) :)
 
I have one of each and really cant tell much difference and Moxie my son is in the U.S. Air Force working in Munitions in Hurlburt Field Fl. been in for 6 yrs. and thank you for your service
 
shooter60,
You are very welcome. Be proud of your son. He's doing a tough and important job. And by the way, you know that without Munitions, the Air Force is just another unscheduled airline!
 
I've had full length, two piece, and STI recoil masters and can't tell the difference when shooting. Maybe an IPSC GM can tell, but I can't. What I do know is that I like something that is simple and works. Because of that I've really come to love the Dawson Tool Less guide rod. A little pricey at about $80, but worth every penny.
 
I don't know about you guys, but I've always thought that rods not to GI spec were a solution looking for a problem.

But I think that about most 1911 mods.

Tom
 
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