1911: What can go wrong mechanically... continued

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777funk

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I was wondering about what can happen if there's a mechanical failure of the cocked and locked 1911 since I knew very little about the internals.

I posted this thread asking about it and decided that it'd be as good a time as any to just take one apart and examine the trigger group.

I managed to experience first hand some failures immediately upon reassembling the trigger components. I got them all back in there correctly just fine but what happened is that the sear/trigger/disconnector/grip safety leaf spring got bent a little upon disassembly. When I put it back together I didn't know how the fingers of the spring were supposed to look and it was not providing enough tension on neither the sear nor disconnector.

I had the hammer follow upon the first racking of the slide (unloaded of course). The sear wasn't locking on the hammer notches because it didn't have enough spring tension to push it into it's hammer latching position. I took it apart again and bent the spring a little. Good... now I have half cock and full cock back. But I noticed that the trigger has to be pulled twice if the gun is in certain positions. I figured disconnector (based on what I was seeing). So back apart again and bent the disconnector tab on the spring and now it works as it's supposed to again and with plenty of pressure on the disconnector as I push down on it from above.

So I've learned a little both by reading and by seeing.

This has given me a little concern that at some point as that leaf spring wears it's very possible for these two issues to repeat unexpectedly. Of course if the rules are followed (never point the muzzle at anything you don't intent to shoot) it should be safe from a personel standpoint, but it could be a bit painful if you were say a floor joist below the round being chambered and of course in the event that there's a magazine in there (likely) this could turn into a few more unplanned holes in the floor. Is this spring something that should routinely be checked?

But, for the good, it doesn't look like a 1911's hammer can drop with the safety on unless that sear pin breaks or comes out (possible but unlikely), the sear itself breaks (possible), or both hammer notches break (highly unlikely for both to break). So the chances are not very good. I wonder about parts quality of these components in say a RIA, Tisas, Girsan, or Taurus. Really, I suppose even the high dollar 1911's could potentially have faulty parts.
 
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BUY a new spring immediately.

Did you not remove the Main spring housing when you disassembled the trigger group?
If you bent one finger, you probably bent 2 or all 3. START from scratch with a new spring before you put bullets in it.
 
It will interesting to read the responses from some 1911 experts as I have wondered about the worn out parts on guns like 1911 and makarovs. How to do routine check on the parts and at what round count should these check begin.

I have had an AD on an old Makarov once when engaging safety droped hammer on the firing to fire the weapon. Luckily it was pointed in a safe direction. Since then, I have been very weary of Maks- I know this concern is not well placed, but still wont buy a used Mak or all metal gun.
 
Anything manufactured by man can and or will fail. The chances of a hammer hook failing is pretty slim.. but that being said.. an examination now and again would be worth taking. Grime and soot from shooting can get up into the trigger group, it's not hermetically sealed, so dropping them out once in awhile to clean and re lube is a great idea. While out. Inspect them for wear, cracks, anything out of the ordinary. The sear spring should pull out and drop in without any force required. settings form the factory spring maker should set you up to be functional and safe.

You may wear out (round off) hammer hooks, but that will be at a HIGH round count. Regular inspections will catch that.
 
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I believe I removed the thumb safety, then the mainspring housing, then the grip saftey, then the hammer and sear. For some reason the leaf spring was sideways and bent. I think the hammer strut got tangled in it as well. I read it's a good idea to put an empty mag in there when working on it so this doesn't happen. I'd guess the spring was messed up the the minute I started taking it apart. Not exactly sure what went wrong.

Are there better springs than others?
 
WEIRD.. that's the general order of taking stuff out. I usually slide the MSH down just far enough to release the grip safety tang.. then remove it.. but..

I purchased a Wolff brand spring and one from Wilson Combat. Both were very good.
 
what happened is that the sear/trigger/disconnector/grip safety leaf spring got bent a little upon disassembly.

Sittin' here tryin' to wrap my head around how that coulda happened. With the mainspring housing and grip safety removed, no force is required to remove the sear spring. You'd have had to pull pretty hard on both leaves...center and far left...to remove enough tension to cause a problem such as you describe.

Unless the problem was there all along.

I had the hammer follow upon the first racking of the slide (unloaded of course). The sear wasn't locking on the hammer notches because it didn't have enough spring tension to push it into it's hammer latching position.

I suspect that you got the left leg under the sear instead of on top of it on the first assembly. Common first-timer mistake. If it were correctly installed, you'd have had full cock and half cock.

Unless I miss my guess, you also had trouble getting the thumb safety out when you disassembled it the 2nd time. You had to remove the mainspring housing first, then muscle the sear spring out...and then remove the thumb and grip safeties.

And that's likely what damaged the spring.

it doesn't look like a 1911's hammer can drop with the safety on unless that sear pin breaks or comes out (possible but unlikely)

Impossible if it's installed correctly. If goes in the frame from the left side with the flange on the left. The thumb safety keeps it from backing out to the left, and the flange keeps it from backing out to the right.

For future reference:

Spring.jpg
 
"... got bent a little..."

Odd how so many gun parts just "get bent" when the gun is taken apart!

Jim
 
1911Tuner, I think you are right on. I'd bet I got the spring under the sear the first time. Not sure what bent it enough to loose tension but it works fine now (lots of tension). Also, right about the safety blocking the sear pin. I'd forgotten about that. I do wonder what would happen as the springs get weaker or break. I'd guess hammer follow or at least issues with trigger reset. But I suppose that can be the case with any gun. Parts wear out. I've shot A5 shotguns for almost 25 years and have never had a failure (and never really thought/worried about it either). But I've never stuck an A5 in a holster right next to my hip either... lol. Maybe that's why I never worried about it.
 
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I do wonder what would happen as the springs get weaker or break.

I've only seen one sear spring break. It was a cheapo that was OEM in a Thomson Auto Ordnance, and the leaf that broke powered the grip safety.

I've had a few that needed a little tweakin' on the middle leaf when the hammer started to fall to half cock on a reload when the slidestop was used to release the slide...but it was many thousands of rounds into the game, and the guns didn't fire.

Not sure what bent it enough to loose tension

It's a mystery. Sometimes, when the leg is installed under the sear, forcing the thumb safety in will kink the leaf a little just below the top and cause some trouble with sear reset, but that's not a tension issue.
 
Looking at the trigger group again, it's obvious that even if a spring breaks in a Condition 1 (C&L) the sear is blocked by the safety and it can't budge.

So it looks like the only potential problem I can see happening in the case of a bad spring is hammer follow and possibly auto firing of the full magazine upon chambering a round. I took the spring out today and operated things a little without the leaf spring. I was a little disappointed to see that the weight of the sear alone isn't enough to swing it into contact with the hammer hooks when the gun is pointed down. It seems with the right amount of weight on the back end of the sear or sufficient distance from the pivot point that just gravity could have made the sear automatically latch to the hammer hooks if the gun was pointed down (as it should be when loaded). Maybe this is just my sear... I don't have enough experience to know.

Of course you guys have MUCH more experience than I have. I was more curious to take a look inside before I decide to trust a mechanical device with a danger factor involved.
 
So it looks like the only potential problem I can see happening in the case of a bad spring is hammer follow and possibly auto firing of the full magazine upon chambering a round. I took the spring out today and operated things a little without the leaf spring. I was a little disappointed to see that the weight of the sear alone isn't enough to swing it into contact with the hammer hooks when the gun is pointed down.

A full auto event requires a certain type of malfunction...or rather a series of events. The sear has to reset partially and catch the hammer hooks right on the tips, so the hammer can jar off when the slide goes home. A simple hammer followdown...even if it goes all the way to the slide...can't light one off.

Hammer follow to half cock is done by the trigger bumping the disconnect, rotating the sear enough to escape the full cock hooks...then the sear resets and grabs the half-cock notch. In order for that malfunction to result in burst or full auto fire, the sear would also have to partially reset and catch the hammer hooks. If it completely failed to reset, the hammer would ride down with the slide, and nothing would happen.
 
A full auto event requires a certain type of malfunction...or rather a series of events. The sear has to reset partially and catch the hammer hooks right on the tips, so the hammer can jar off when the slide goes home. A simple hammer followdown...even if it goes all the way to the slide...can't light one off.

Hammer follow to half cock is done by the trigger bumping the disconnect, rotating the sear enough to escape the full cock hooks...then the sear resets and grabs the half-cock notch. In order for that malfunction to result in burst or full auto fire, the sear would also have to partially reset and catch the hammer hooks. If it completely failed to reset, the hammer would ride down with the slide, and nothing would happen.

A "gunsmith" back in 1976 sure found a way doing a trigger job on my Colt Series '70! I took it out in the desert and it burped out 7 rounds full auto. Caught me completely by surprise and all I could do was hang on with the last couple cases bouncing off the side of my head! I couldn't stop it rising after each shot. No fun, and it was lucky for the gunsmith that I was a couple hundred miles away.

He played with it but it still would drop to half cock occasionally so I finally got a new sear and hammer which solved the problem. I learned to only put two rounds in the mag the first time you're testing a new gun or trigger job!
 
I have mentioned before the "gunsmith" who polished and ground the full cock notch to a hair depth, and set up a knife edge sear. When customers complained that the hammer dropped into the half cock, he solved that "problem" by grinding off the half cock!

After a couple of his masterpieces emulated a sub gun (with no one injured, fortunately), he was "persuaded" to take up another line of work. Last I knew he was repairing lawnmowers but I have not taken one to him.

Jim
 
A "gunsmith" back in 1976 sure found a way doing a trigger job on my Colt Series '70!

It still had to hold at full cock and trip when the slide went home, and the sear had to fail to reset.

Remove the sear and disconnect and hand-cycle the slide...and watch the hammer. The slide doesn't release it until it's within about .050 inch of battery. The hammer doesn't have enough energy and momentum to drive the firing pin into a primer.

I had a guy bring me a Springfield several years ago that followed on every shot. When I looked, it was evident that the top of the disconnect had been deliberately filed down by the file marks on the top of the frame.

I finally got him to admit that he'd done it because somebody told him that would make the pistol fire full auto.

It didn't. It fired...extracted and ejected...fed the next round, and stopped with the hammer down. He had to recock it every time he fired it. It never even doubled.

I replaced his disconnect and read him the riot act on deliberately modifying one to create a "machine gun" and the implications if the gun had managed to fire a two round burst one time in a thousand tries, which was at least theoretically possible.

After a couple of his masterpieces emulated a sub gun (with no one injured, fortunately), he was "persuaded" to take up another line of work.

I think he must have moved to North Carolina and hung out his shingle, Jim. A friend of mine brought me one about two years ago...bought at a gun show in Charlotte...that sounds an awful lot like the same guy had his hand in it. The hammer hooks were about .010 inch long. Mike told me that the first time he fired the thing, it emptied the magazine before he could let go of the trigger.

They're everywhere...
 
It still had to hold at full cock and trip when the slide went home, and the sear had to fail to reset...

Honestly I don't know what he did or what he did to "fix" it when I took it back. But I'll never forget that Colt going full auto! I finally replaced the sear and hammer myself and have had no problems with it over the years.

Sad thing, this guy was highly recommended in Phoenix. (Before he moved to North Carolina? :D)
 
In my experience the most common cause of 1911 fullotta fire is insufficient pre-travel in the trigger.
This will cause the sear to miss or bounce off of the halfcock notch or shelf.
What would normally be a hammer follow to half-cock now becomes a life
threatening event.
Choose your smiffs with care.
If you are the DIY type, spend some time learning before doing.
 
What exactly does insufficient pre-travel? Is that the play in the trigger before it actually contacts the sear?
 
What exactly does insufficient pre-travel? Is that the play in the trigger before it actually contacts the sear?

It's the takeup of the trigger before it contacts the disconnect. The trigger never touches the sear.

The only pistol that I've run into with insufficient pretravel...none actually...was a Springfield that a guy installed a trigger into with the little bendy tabs on the front curve of the bow that are used to reduce pretravel by placing the trigger stirrup closer to the disconnect.

The hammer was following when the slide was released with the slidestop, but the half-cock notch caught the sear and stopped it. He hadn't tweaked the sear spring to lighten the trigger pull, so the gun didn't slam fire or burst fire...but the hammer was following to half cock nearly every time.

The cure was to simply bend the tabs back to give it a little pretravel.

During active firing, it made no difference because the disconnect was doing its job.

He was using the gun for slow-fire target shooting, so he could have just held the trigger to the rear when he released the slide to get the disconnect out of the equation. It's an old trick that the Bullseye shooters used back in the day before they had light/low mass triggers to work with. Not recommended for fast, action-type matches, but it does work.
 
Has anyone had a sear break? I've heard of this but not seen/experienced it. I wonder if the high-grade stuff these days are even prone to it.

The hammer should be caught by the thumb safety if all is right, but I've also seen some that don't do this.

Josh
 
Has anyone had a sear break?

Saw an MIM sear crack across one of the feet once. It was the one that the safety lug bears against.

The hammer should be caught by the thumb safety if all is right.

Nope. Won't do it. If the sear were to instantaneously disintegrate, the hammer would fall and it'd wipe the safety off faster than you can do it with your thumb.
 
Tuner, I'll try that again. I have my safety detent just a bit stronger than usual because I'm a lefty. I know mine will catch the hammer -- at least when I've left the sear out and manually pulled the hammer back.

As to standard run-of-the-mill 1911 pistols, I don't doubt you're right for most of them. It was just a building goal of mine, and I've heard others say theirs do the same.

Regards,

Josh
 
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