Tuner (and everyone else, now that I've written more than I figured on!),
I didn't get a chance to try this again today as I was pressed for time. I wanted my STI grip safety back on instead of the Brown -- I love the Brown, want to love it as much as the STI, but those cutouts on the STI are just so damned comfortable!
Anyway, I was at the shop to make sights and barely had time to swap the grip safeties (both already fitted to the frame) while waiting to see how some stuff would take oil.
This might be important:
When I first fitted everything, I had a different spring setup in the pistol. It was either a 19lb or 21lb mainspring; I don't remember, lighter than usual, anyway, and an 18.5lb return spring.
Since then, I've gone back to a 23lb spring (found an actual GI part in cosmoline and love it!) and 16lb return spring, albeit variable rate on the latter. Just something with those variable rates that makes the return more pleasant for me; not sure just what.
But could be that the lighter spring had something to do with it.
Another thought is this:
Stole that photo from the net, for reference.
I use a Series 80 (or similar; Series 80 shelf) in my Series 70-type RIA frame. Now, I know this isn't the safest setup. It's something I chose to try and it works. The intercept shelf works well enough.
I'm replacing the hammer with a Wilson I have on order. Should be here this week.
I'll compare the Wilson with the unknown-make Series 80-style hammer.
Moving on, and at least when the slide is off, the relief for the safety stud is in such a position that if the sear slips the hammer hooks and the safety is on, the hammer will lock to the safety on rotation and will have to be pulled back before the safety can be put back down.
Will it do this with the slide on? I don't remember from when I fit the safety. I believe it did, but now you've got me questioning.
As well, I'll compare the diameter of this current hammer to the Wilson arriving in the mail. Will test this idea later this week if I can find time.
Moving on...
Couple ideas:
1. Engine assembly lube for slide and barrel lube. If you think about it, each time you fire the 1911 it's a "dry start." Moly and zinc is what's in the Lucas stuff I'm using. It has a watery rubber cement consistency (as you probably know, Tuner; some folks never saw the stuff, I gather, though everyone should have the experience of building a Chevy small block!)
2. I'm not trusting the price of S&W's 1911 hammer, here:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/532745/smith-and-wesson-hammer-1911-blue
It has to be MIM, but so is the Wilson I ordered (the Value Line) as I want to test a few theories I have on MIM. I don't like it for the most part.
One thing that grabbed my attention, though, was the center hook on the half-cock. That makes all sorts of sense to me as it will contact a part of the sear not contacted by the full-cock hooks. I like that design.
Do you know of anyone who makes a non-MIM version with that center half-cock hook?
Lots of ideas running around in my head. Dammit.
Regards,
Josh