1911 with 18#(ish) Trigger Pull

[On The Beach]

I just picked up a Norinco 1911. This is my fourth one and they've been reliable guns and great shooters until now. This one has a horrible trigger.

When you start to pull the trigger there's a little bit of overtravel with zero weight. Then it's like hitting a wall. The trigger won't move at all until there's about 18-20# of pull (scale maxed out at 12# and wasn't close to tripping).

The notch on the hammer for full-cock looks to be 90 degrees with no apparent roughness or burrs. And the trigger moves smoothly in the frame when the sear is not there.

I know the angles on the tip of the sear are important, but could the angles alone be causing this level of trigger pull?

I obviously don't want to screw it up more, but I'm also having trouble thinking of how it could get worse absent not firing or failing to catch at all. Basically, I'm looking for a last resort kind of fix before just ordering a new sear.

Any other thoughts/suggestions are appreciated!

 

[wiscoaster]

It's probably your three-leaf spring, variously referred to as sear spring, main spring, whatever. It affects trigger, grip safety and disconnect, if I remember correctly. And it's NOT a DIY project for a beginner. If you don't know what you're doing with that little piece of John Browning magic, you'd best take it to a gunsmith, because you'll just end up driving yourself totally bonkers. Take it from one who's been there, done that, and the gun involved is still in pieces in a box waiting for me to get up the motivation to tackle it again. From that experience forward I firmly resolved to restrain myself to removal and reinstall of that particular part only. I do NOT attempt to "tune" it to modify the trigger pull. Messing with one of the leafs affect the function of the other two, and you might end up with a grip safety that doesn't work or a hammer that doesn't cock.

 

[entropy]

The best way to adjust the sear spring, is order ten or so before you start. And be by yourself at the range when you test it, as when a 1911 machine-guns, it draws attention.

 

[Blue68f100]

I would make sure the Grip safety is clearing the trigger bar, and sear blocking arm releasing the sear. Better yet remove the grip panels and see if you can see if any thing is binding. If nothing found, start with just the trigger and sear spring, then start adding parts while testing with the pull gauge.

 

[Project355]

Take out the grip safety. Re-assemble with it out. Look at middle leaf as you manipulate things.

Sometimes it interacts with hammer strut.

 

[BBBBill]

...could the angles alone be causing this level of trigger pull?..

No. Someting is binding in the frame. Trigger,sear, disconnector, grip safety, thumb safety, and their intereaction with each other and the frame are where you should focus. Remove the grips so that you can observe the parts as you pull the trigger. If you don't see anything there remove the grip safety and try again.

My educated guess is that the back corner of the trigger bow is hanging on the grip safety blocking arm.

 

[edwardware]

No. Someting is binding in the frame.

@BBBBill is right. That much weight is almost certainly a hangup, not just leaf spring + sear/hooks. Don't move any metal until you see the problem.

And as always read every page of Kuhnhausen, first.

 

[jmorris]

When you start to pull the trigger there's a little bit of overtravel with zero weight. Then it's like hitting a wall. The trigger won't move at all until there's about 18-20# of pull (scale maxed out at 12# and wasn't close to tripping).

Does the trigger have an over travel screw? If so back it out.

As above make sure the grip safety is all the way down before you begin pulling on the trigger, in testing.

I don’t think you can get a 1911 trigger pull that high with the springs available, put me in the “interference” group of opinions.

 

[John Edward]

I just picked up a Norinco 1911. This is my fourth one and they've been reliable guns and great shooters until now. This one has a horrible trigger.

When you start to pull the trigger there's a little bit of overtravel with zero weight. Then it's like hitting a wall. The trigger won't move at all until there's about 18-20# of pull (scale maxed out at 12# and wasn't close to tripping).

The notch on the hammer for full-cock looks to be 90 degrees with no apparent roughness or burrs. And the trigger moves smoothly in the frame when the sear is not there.

I know the angles on the tip of the sear are important, but could the angles alone be causing this level of trigger pull?

I obviously don't want to screw it up more, but I'm also having trouble thinking of how it could get worse absent not firing or failing to catch at all. Basically, I'm looking for a last resort kind of fix before just ordering a new sear.

Any other thoughts/suggestions are appreciated!

Check your disconnector where it passes through the frame. It may be hanging up and cause trigger to be hard to pull. If all is ok there. Disassemble pistol keep trigger and clip release installed then install grip safety use a flashlight to observe how the trigger and grip safety are moving. If the grip safety is not rocking back enough to let the trigger bow move it may be your problem. If all is ok there. And you have a trigger pull gauge with just the trigger and clip release installed put your three prong spring in place use the main spring holder to keep it there then place pistol in your vice faces down use your pull gauge to move the trigger watch the left side spring prong as soon as it moves check your reading if it high as in 2,3,4 pounds that’s to much adjust the spring for less tension. The only other place is your hammer spur it may be binding where it meet the main spring cup you may need to smooth it with a stone . Hope this helps you out. John Edward

 

[JJFitch]

Here is a tutorial that might help understanding and help with diagnosis.

Note: By the time all the mechanical pieces are properly fit the last step is adjusting the "sear" spring! (It is never referred to as the "main spring, whatever"!)

Google: "Weigand 2.5# trigger pull"

Smiles,

 

[On The Beach]

Thanks for all of the suggestions and advice! I'll be working in this weekend and will let you know what I find.

 

[On The Beach]

The hammer strut was interacting with the middle leaf spring. Addressed that and it's good now.

Thanks again!

 

[wiscoaster]

Thanks for the update.

 

[Project355]

The hammer strut was interacting with the middle leaf spring.

Told ya so! (I get lucky sometimes)