I want to use my 20 ga Ithaca o/u for ducks this year. It has fixed chokes full and mod. Someone said that I could shoot steel through the full choke if I used #4 or smaller shot. I don't want to have the full choke reamed out to mod as they are chrome lined and the chroming may start to flake off. Any one know if the smaller shot idea is for real??? Thanks
20 ga. and steel shot.
- Thread starter lexi
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GooseGestapo
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I've used steel shot for many years, and I've gone to a 20ga for most of my hunting including waterfowling. I find the 20ga steel to work well, at least as well as you can expect steel to work. I still prefer #3 for most applications (ducks over decoys). #BB for Mallards and geese otherwise.
I'd be really reluctant to shoot steel shot through any s/s or o/u, regardless of age or linage.
Even a dedicated waterfowling gun with replaceable choke tubes is going to eventually bulge the choke in front of the choke constriction. (I've bulged several) If this is a soldered barrel such as your high-grade o/u, you may ruin an expensive gun.
As such, I only shoot Bismuth, and tungsten-matrix through my s/s, even though it's of recent mfg, and has choke tubes. (CZ-USA Golden Pheasant).
I bought a 'cheapy' Charles Daly pump in 20ga and painted it to match the foilage in the areas I hunt as my 20ga waterfowler. It uses Rem-choke tubes and I bought it used for $125.00 at a pawn shop, so if it is lost overboard or I bend a barrel taking a spill wading a beaver swamp, no great loss. I've aquired several choke tubes on clearances, ect. so, choke tubes are expendable...... A $$$$ shotgun, isn't....
I also have a Remington 870 Express in 12ga to back up my M1187SP camo, for the same reason.
It's a sad day that it's cheaper to by another shotgun and shoot steel than to use either Bismuth or Tungsten alloys through a "GOOD" gun that you don't want to mess up....... But,thats where we're at now, and it's no use looking back....
Heck, in my neck of the woods, it's cheaper to pay the fines for using lead shot, than to buy/shoot the "legal" ammo. And thats coming from someone who used to be on the "other end" of the law ......
But then, I prefer to avoid the "hassle", so I buy the ammo after the end of the season when it's marked down. I haven't needed to buy "expensive" ammo for several years now....Still shooting ammo I bought over 10+ years ago...
I'd be really reluctant to shoot steel shot through any s/s or o/u, regardless of age or linage.
Even a dedicated waterfowling gun with replaceable choke tubes is going to eventually bulge the choke in front of the choke constriction. (I've bulged several) If this is a soldered barrel such as your high-grade o/u, you may ruin an expensive gun.
As such, I only shoot Bismuth, and tungsten-matrix through my s/s, even though it's of recent mfg, and has choke tubes. (CZ-USA Golden Pheasant).
I bought a 'cheapy' Charles Daly pump in 20ga and painted it to match the foilage in the areas I hunt as my 20ga waterfowler. It uses Rem-choke tubes and I bought it used for $125.00 at a pawn shop, so if it is lost overboard or I bend a barrel taking a spill wading a beaver swamp, no great loss. I've aquired several choke tubes on clearances, ect. so, choke tubes are expendable...... A $$$$ shotgun, isn't....
I also have a Remington 870 Express in 12ga to back up my M1187SP camo, for the same reason.
It's a sad day that it's cheaper to by another shotgun and shoot steel than to use either Bismuth or Tungsten alloys through a "GOOD" gun that you don't want to mess up....... But,thats where we're at now, and it's no use looking back....
Heck, in my neck of the woods, it's cheaper to pay the fines for using lead shot, than to buy/shoot the "legal" ammo. And thats coming from someone who used to be on the "other end" of the law ......
But then, I prefer to avoid the "hassle", so I buy the ammo after the end of the season when it's marked down. I haven't needed to buy "expensive" ammo for several years now....Still shooting ammo I bought over 10+ years ago...
Virginian
Member
I would not shoot steel thru that gun, period. Before the better stuff came along I used a 10 gauge to shoot steel, so I am the wrong one to ask about a 20. I would get some bismuth or tungsten rated for double barrels and try it before deciding I was going to use that gun no matter what.
627PCFan
Member
I shoot steel through my old Savage 311 SXS but only because both fixed chokes are cylinder bore. If your gonna do that get some busimuth
Is this an SKB?
Mine isn't chrome lined, or at least it sure didn't seem like it when I had the chambers reamed.
That said, I wouldn't shoot steel through an old fixed Full barrel anyway. Not good for the barrel, and probably a near-useless pattern.
There are some new non-toxic shotshells that are designed to replace lead. Not only will they work better in your gun, they should also make the 20 Gauge adequate for waterfowl, within bounds of reason.
Mine isn't chrome lined, or at least it sure didn't seem like it when I had the chambers reamed.
That said, I wouldn't shoot steel through an old fixed Full barrel anyway. Not good for the barrel, and probably a near-useless pattern.
There are some new non-toxic shotshells that are designed to replace lead. Not only will they work better in your gun, they should also make the 20 Gauge adequate for waterfowl, within bounds of reason.
chas08
Member
As far as the smaller shot idea, there is some documented merit to that. Remington recomends nothing larger than # 2 steel through their modern alloy full steel choke tubes. But in your gun, I wouldnt do it. If it were choked Mod and I/C I would consider it because shot cups have improved so much over the years. But thin barrel walls, tight constrictions, and steel shot, generally don't co-exist very well.
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