.22 autoloader recommendation

[Terry G]

There is also the Browning 1911-.22. A slightly down sized 1911. Another choice.

This. Cool little .22. No malfunctions with it yet and I usually just grab whatever .22 is on the shelf. I must admit though the TX22 and Sig P322 are getting more use.

 

[Rock185]

I consider myself a 1911 guy too. I've had other Ruger Mk series .22s, but some years ago I bought a 22/45 because the grip and controls were more 1911ish. It doesn't have the trigger my S&W 41 had, but it is boringly reliable with a variety of ammunition. My 41 had a great trigger, but was very finicky about ammo. Very nice pistol, but I prefer reliable above all else, hence the Ruger.
Been several years ago, but a couple pals had Browning Buckmarks. Never saw a malfunction at the range with either of their guns.

 

[Milt1]

I have a Buckmark, Ruger Single Six, S&W K-22, Ruger Bearcat and a Ruger SR-22. All are accurate and fun to shoot but for pure fun the SR-22 is the hands down winner, at least for me.

 

[GONRA]

GONRA knows the Ruger Standard Model with 6 inch barrel will do the job.
More accurate than any of us will ever be!
HAVE PHUN!

 

[James K2020]

Same procedure, different manufacturer, might help, as might a new spring. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/ruger-mark-iv-magazine-tuning.905565/

I performed the manual cycling of 5 rounds from magazine to chamber. I did observe some dents on the casings just above the rim which I assume are from the next one in the mag pushing upwards.

There was also some shaving of the lead bullet which you can also see on the one second from the right. Is that normal?
What is so confounding is that the rounds chamber no problem when manually charging. The only FTF when shooting is on the second round or the first one that is cycled automatically after firing, and it hits above the chamber and bends the bullet from the case. Then all rounds after will chamber no problem- it's just the second one or the first that is not chambered manually.

Strange that additional rounds in the mag don't mis-hit.

Sorry the pix aren't a little clearer. The shiny part on the 2nd from right is the shaved area.

 

[Skylerbone]

I performed the manual cycling of 5 rounds from magazine to chamber. I did observe some dents on the casings just above the rim which I assume are from the next one in the mag pushing upwards.

There was also some shaving of the lead bullet which you can also see on the one second from the right. Is that normal?
What is so confounding is that the rounds chamber no problem when manually charging. The only FTF when shooting is on the second round or the first one that is cycled automatically after firing, and it hits above the chamber and bends the bullet from the case. Then all rounds after will chamber no problem- it's just the second one or the first that is not chambered manually.

Strange that additional rounds in the mag don't mis-hit.

Sorry the pix aren't a little clearer. The shiny part on the 2nd from right is the shaved area.

View attachment 1093876

View attachment 1093876

In your case it appears to me, and I’ve been wrong before, that the extractor has no control over the round during the feed cycle. I don’t think there’s near enough spring pressure from the magazine to dent cases below the one cycling, I think the round is releasing from the mag, missing the extractor hook, and pointing down a bit as it hits the roof of the chamber before the bolt forces it home.

If you can find the extractor’s witness mark and line up the casings as they would sit in the pistol, you’ll know which surface both the crease and the shavings are coming from. My guess is brass crease is at 12:00 and shaving around 6:00.

 

[James K2020]

In your case it appears to me, and I’ve been wrong before, that the extractor has no control over the round during the feed cycle. I don’t think there’s near enough spring pressure from the magazine to dent cases below the one cycling, I think the round is releasing from the mag, missing the extractor hook, and pointing down a bit as it hits the roof of the chamber before the bolt forces it home.

If you can find the extractor’s witness mark and line up the casings as they would sit in the pistol, you’ll know which surface both the crease and the shavings are coming from. My guess is brass crease is at 12:00 and shaving around 6:00.

If it is in fact the extractor hook not catching the case, is there a remedy?
Not real familiar with High Standards. Assume the extractor is on the right side?

 

[James K2020]

I may have posted these pix on another thread but this is what it's doing:

 

[James K2020]

Here's a picture of the extractor. Did some deep cleaning and there were some shavings but couldn't tell if it was lead or another metal?

 

[Milt1]

Too strong a magazine spring that's causing a pushup like that?

 

[Skylerbone]

Ok. Looking at the pictures, your magazine feed lips need adjusting, and while I’m 99% on this, I think they’re too long. A late release of the round means there isn’t enough distance to feed the round into the chamber.

The normal feed cycle is this:
1. Slide springs forward stripping the round from the magazine.
2. Round angles up as it nears release point, having nosed into the feed ramp.
3. Round is released by the magazine and captured by the extractor as it slides up the breechface.
4. Round straightens out as it is now guided by both the breech and chamber.

Now in this case, Round crashes into feed ramp, angles up, but its release is delayed a very short distance by the too long magazine lips and so rather than the round’s angle beginning to level out, it continues until hitting the top of the chamber and being crushed. This same scenario was encountered by me with 2 AR-15s in 350 Legend and both are now running like tops. In your case we are talking a very small amount of material removal. Then cycle briskly and do not ride the slide home.

I don’t envy anyone having to trust internet advice so you’ll have to decide on whether to take it or not. Below are some pictures of my Beretta as it feeds the top round, then views of the magazine.

If you care to test what’s going on, load 1 round in the magazine then slowly move it forward with you index finger keeping pressure on it from above. As it nears the end of the feed lips, it will want to point straight up if you release your finger.

Round is being captured.


Just before being grabbed by extractor.


Now captured and straightened out.


Some alternate views.





Loaded magazine.


Thumbnail shows the edge of the feed lips which need to be filed shorter.


Case rim at the edge of feed lips awaiting release.


View of clearance to front wall of magazine where no lead can be shaved off.


Red line indicating where to file.

 

[Skylerbone]

Additional pics. The below sho a somewhat exaggerated example of how a round looks when hitting low against the frame’s feed ramp (or frame itself) then deflecting upward to jam at the edge of the chamber. @James K2020 this is what’s shown in your picture.

 

[Skylerbone]

The jam created by the bullet nose into the upper chamber mouth causes the slide to force the round down ever so slightly back into the magazine and the bolt leaves a nice crease at the bottom of the case as it completes the jam. Please forgive the crude drawing.

 

[James K2020]

Understand what you are saying, but interesting that the magazine feed lips are now too long. What would cause that anomaly to happen over time where a part becomes too long (instead of too short)? How much material should be removed from the feed lips?

I don't mind filing one of the mags down a bit since I'm 90% convinced the problem IS with the mags and not the gun unless the extractor itself is worn. It appears to have good edges but I'm no expert on what any of the parts should look like at this point.

Thanks again for all your insight. I'll spend some time playing with one of the 2 mags.

 

[Skylerbone]

More likely that they now sit a bit lower as parts have worn down rather than the feed lips lengthening (because that would be ridiculous). With a full magazine, the top round strikes the feed ramp lower than any other, and rounds strike progressively higher as the magazine empties. A worn mag catch can allow what was a functional pistol to become less reliable. How that’s fixed with a 1911 is a “higher” mag catch but your pistol won’t offer that level of aftermarket support.

1911 feed ramp, smudges show bullet impacts getting progressively higher.


In the two pictures below, note the gap between magazine and frame (approx. .022”). When the magazine is forced up by my hand, the gap closes and rounds are presented to the slide at a greater elevation. Further aiding feeding, as magazine spring tension lessens, the magazine will ride higher, thus presenting rounds higher.

 

[James K2020]

Understand what you're saying. I put 5 in the mag and pushed them out slowly. As best I can tell, the bullet tip does not rise up just prior to leaving the mag. Below are some pix of a cartridge at the very end of the holding lip and just a slight nudge before getting popped out.
It's always hard to tell how the cartridges react under actual firing conditions versus a slow-motion examination.
I did disassemble the mags, remove the springs and cleaned with Ballistrol and long pointy Razor q-tips so I don't think the mags can get any cleaner.

May take out and shoot again next week to see if anything has changed before I file on the mag lips but that may be an option.

 

[Kookla]

@James K2020 is that a crack in the magazine?

 

[Milt1]

Also the feeding lips on the mag look bent, perhaps it's just the way the picture was taken!

 

[Jim Watson]

High Standards are dependent on the width of the magazine lips, front and rear, since the gun has no feed ramp.
There is a little tool that is both lip bender and gauge.
BUT yours is an older model with boss on the barrel and recess in the slide and I don't know if the same dimensions apply.

 

[James K2020]

Don't believe so, both mags are the same. That area is a cut tab and the 'ears' are soldered to the inside. In the below picture you can see the second tab near the bottom where the two edges of the mag are attached together.


As far as the feeding lips being bent, most of the pictures I've seen of these particular magazines show the follower being slightly cock-eyed and the feeding tabs are actually pretty straight on both mine when you pull down the spring/follower and look down.

 

[SP5]

I vote for the Glock 44

 

[Skylerbone]

Just keep a close eye on any failures and note the round’s position ie where lead was scraped top/bottom, where case was dented, etc. Nearly all semi-auto feed issues boil down to magazines.

Remember this is a bank shot, as displayed in your photo





If the round is released soon enough to be handed off to the extractor and breech, it won’t run into the chamber edge but instead will have begun to level out to horizontal as it makes contact.

As for how much to remove, generally speaking, very little. In the below example, I modified 4 Duramags by removing more than an 1/8” and likely 3/16” but these aren’t a typical example.


Red circles show where I removed material. Next 2 photos show why front was modified.


After clearancing.


Before modification

 

[James K2020]

Thanks again. Good photos and analysis.
I'll modify one mag and test.
Gonna fix this thing or else....

 

[DDDWho]

A Smith model 41 with factory 2 lb trigger. WOW what a shooter . A Ruger MK 4 with Volquartsen 2 lb trigger. As good as the 41. A Ruger MK 3, stock with Bushnell TRS 25. My porch gun for critters. More accurate than me.

 

[HollowDawg]

I've been circling one of these for quite some time. All steel. ROCK ISLAND XT 22 STANDARD COMBO 22LR/45ACP 8RD/10RD For Sale | Rock Island Armory (rockislandarmoryusa.com)
or if yo prefer 22 mag ROCK ISLAND XT 22 MAGNUM 22MAG 14RD For Sale | Rock Island Armory (rockislandarmoryusa.com)