.22 w/scope @$200

[goon]

I've also avoided the newer 10/22's with the plastic triggerguards, but I wonder if I'm overreacting.
If that polymer can handle the recoil of 9mm, .40, and .45 ACP handgun rounds, I guess it's probably strong enough to work as the container for a fire control group.
But I'd still prefer aluminum!

 

[MachIVshooter]

The great thing about a Ruger 10/22 is that it will never lose money, never jamb,

That's just funny. They depreciate just as any other new firearm will, and they most certainly jam up from time to time.

My favorite little .22 autoloader is the Remington 552. Mine is an older model, haven't hadled one of the new ones to compare, but it runs great with anything I've fed it. They're also about the only auto that'll shoot shorts and longs as well.

 

[Funshooter45]

I just recently bought a Marlin 795 and I have to say I'm a bit disappointed overall. 20 years ago I had a Marlin 60 that was really really good. But I let my ex-wife keep that one. Then I had a Remington that was decent but I "loaned" it to my son in college and it appears I'll never see that one again. So suddenly I was in need of another .22 just to dink around with at the range while I waited for my other rifles to cool down. I had shot a buddy's 10/22 a few times and thought it was fairly good overall. But I was remembering my old Model 60 and figured to get another one. But this 795 popped up in front of me and I figured it whould be pretty much the same as a 60 except with a box magazine instead of a tube.

The 795 functions OK. But the trigger is the worst thing I have ever felt bar none! It feels like pressing on a mushy banana. I'm surprised at the accuracy level given the feel of the trigger. I can put 10 shots into a group of 0.75" at 50 yds or 10 shots into about 2.5" at 100 yds. That's fine with me, but the dang trigger just disgusts me every time I shoot it.

 

[slowr1der]

That's just funny. They depreciate just as any other new firearm will, and they most certainly jam up from time to time.

I agree they can jam from time to time just like anything does. I'm not sure where he got they will never jam. That being said, they are pretty reliable and even more reliable if you put a VQ extractor on them.

As for the value, I agree mostly with him. I'm not sure what the deal with them is at this time, and it may not be the same way in 5 or 10 years, but right now I see them for sale locally used in the $200 range or the $220-250 range with cheap scopes. They sell them brand new at Walmart for $197 +tax. I'd think the used ones would never sell, but to my surprise most of them do. The few I've seen priced in the $180 range, which have been rare, have sold just a few minutes if not seconds after they are posted and there is a long waiting list for them. So, they do seem to lose the value of what tax is, but around here they don't lose much else. I wish I could find someone that wanted to sell one and didn't want a like new price for one. I'd love to pick up one in the $150 range or so.

The Marlin 60's on the other hand are often for sale for $100 in this area and occasionally as cheap as $80. These sell for $150+ tax at Walmart, so they do seem to loose more value than the 10/22's.

 

[SiNNiK]

I've become enamored with the XT22 from Marlin and think that's the way to go, even though I'll have to pony up some extra cash.

Thanks for all the input!

 

[LukeTheDrifter]

I would not recommend a new 10/22 at all. 10/22 trigger have been, and continue to be, crappy. The new ones are just terrible!!! I can't tell you how many dads I see at the range, by themselves, shooting their kids new 10/22 and trying to figure out why their so inaccurate. I'll let them use my 1996 10/22 (stock everything, except I floated the barrel, bedded the action) and they ALWAYS kick themselves for not buying a good condition, older used one!! However, all 10/22s jam and stovepipe like crazy at some point or another. You'll just have learn how to disassemble the magazine for cleaning, and how to reassemble it with enough tension on the spring to keep the beast fed.

With that being said, I wouldn't personally recommend a 10/22 over a lot of other rifles. I would get her a Savage bolt action. Either teach her how to shoot properly with irons first, or put a $30 scope on it. Mine never jams, will consistently feed .22 CB longs from the 10-round magazine for VERY quiet plinking, and is crazy accurate.

Good luck!!

 

[goon]

However, all 10/22s jam and stovepipe like crazy at some point or another. You'll just have learn how to disassemble the magazine for cleaning, and how to reassemble it with enough tension on the spring to keep the beast fed.

Only if there is something wrong with them. Mine stovepiped repeatedly until I put a new extractor in it. It had a defective part. I shouldn't have had to fix it right out of the box, but I'm glad I did because I really like the rifle.

 

[BeJaRa]

I just recieved a new 10/22 as a gift and I don't have a problem at all with the plastic trigger. It feels as solid as the lower recievers on Glock type pistols and it has almost no creep and as crisp a trigger as an inexpensive mass produced rifle can have. The accuracy is decent. it is no tack driver but it is much more accurate than my Winchester 67 or my ithica 22 single shot rifle. the quality of my rifle seems very good on the barrel, reciever, trigger group but the wood (laminant?) stock looks a little cheap. It is solid and functional, but the look, It might be the grain reminds me of fake wood paneling from the 80's. For me it is the best 22lr option because it is relatively inexpensive, simple design with great aftermarket availabilty with a good removable box magazine.

 

[CraigC]

If it's a standard carbine, it's a birch stock and they are not particularly well known for their beauty. Functional, yes, but the grain is rarely very attractive.

 

[LukeTheDrifter]

Only if there is something wrong with them. Mine stovepiped repeatedly until I put a new extractor in it. It had a defective part. I shouldn't have had to fix it right out of the box, but I'm glad I did because I really like the rifle.

Goon, I gave you the exact reason why every 10/22 will stovepipe and jam: the spring tension and condition of your magazine. I didn't even mention the fact that, as a .22 semi-auto (a fairly cheap one too) there simply will be problems with sufficient blowback to consistently work the action 100% of the time. Jams happen in these. .22 is a filthy round and crap builds up everywhere, even during the same range day. Am I saying I don't love mine? No way!! But it doesn't excel in any areas of actual shooting over less expensive .22 semi rifles. It's not accurate out of the box, and even after breaking in, due to the terrible barrel harmonics caused by that dang barrel band (I floated my barrel band, it's just on there for looks now. Doesn't touch the stock or the barrel) and the ill-fitting stock. The barrel sits directly and unevenly on the barrel channel from the start. If you shoot a rifle and the stock feels like you hit a tennis ball with the edge of your racquet, you've got a problem. I cork-bedded my action and floated the barrel. I also made a recoil buffer and used a washer on the stock screw. My rifle looks completely stock, but there was definitely a lot of time and work put into making her shoot well.

By the way, to the guy that said a plastic trigger felt like a Glock and the 10/22 is more accurate than his single shot, first of all: try a mid-1990s 10/22, you'll understand. 10/22s didn't become ubiquitous in shooting circles because of being Glock-like.

Secondly, unless your single shot .22 is just torn up with lack of care and damage, it's definitely more accurate than your 10/22. A lot of people get confused about this because, with a semi-auto, they send so many more rounds at the target. Since some of the rounds hit near the bullseye (and everywhere else on the target), they assume the rifle has inherent accuracy. The truth is, if you really practiced making each shot count, and sent that many round at the target with the single shot, I would bet money you'd have way better results.

Just my opinions, of course. They just happen to be correct!!! Jk

It's almost FRIDAY!!!! WHOOOOHOOOOOOOO!!!!

 

[goon]

Goon, I gave you the exact reason why every 10/22 will stovepipe and jam: the spring tension and condition of your magazine.

I admit that I've only owned 2 10/22's in my life so maybe I haven't seen it all. But in my experience, insufficient spring tension in the magazine will result in either outright complete failures to feed (especially in the last few rounds in the magazine) or half feeding that causes the cartridge to get badly mangled between the bolt and the rear of the barrel. Generally, I clean the magazines on a semi-regular basis and check the tension when I reassemble, so I don't have many issues at all with failures to feed. FWIW, even the oldest factory 10/22 magazines I own - which are from the late 70's - still feed reliably if they're somewhat clean and have enough tension.

Failures to eject have been caused either by the gun being dirty (but my 10/22's have always handled an awful lot of dirt and grime without real reliability issues) or in one case by a bad extractor. Replacing the factory extractor (probably defective) with a VQ extractor solved the problem immediately. As you mentioned, inconsistent ammo can also cause this.

So I guess my point is that as long as my 10/22 has no broken parts, is somewhat clean, and is using decent ammunition thats one rung above the bulk pack stuff in quality, it runs as reliably as anything else. It does not jam and stovepipe like crazy. If it did, I'd know that something was wrong with it.

FWIW, my friend's old Marlin 60 also runs well for about 300 rounds. After that, it gets dirty and starts to have failures to feed. But as long as it's clean it's pretty reliable. I don't know if they all start to malfunction at that point, but I know that his does. It might be more accurate than my 10/22 but the truth is, neither of us have ever stopped shooting at aluminum cans, old fruit, clay pigeons, or balloons long enough to test them against each other on targets. For our purposes, both are entirely adequate.

 

[LukeTheDrifter]

I admit that I've only owned 2 10/22's in my life so maybe I haven't seen it all. But in my experience, insufficient spring tension in the magazine will result in either outright complete failures to feed (especially in the last few rounds in the magazine) or half feeding that causes the cartridge to get badly mangled between the bolt and the rear of the barrel. Generally, I clean the magazines on a semi-regular basis and check the tension when I reassemble, so I don't have many issues at all with failures to feed. FWIW, even the oldest factory 10/22 magazines I own - which are from the late 70's - still feed reliably if they're somewhat clean and have enough tension.

Failures to eject have been caused either by the gun being dirty (but my 10/22's have always handled an awful lot of dirt and grime without real reliability issues) or in one case by a bad extractor. Replacing the factory extractor (probably defective) with a VQ extractor solved the problem immediately. As you mentioned, inconsistent ammo can also cause this.

So I guess my point is that as long as my 10/22 has no broken parts, is somewhat clean, and is using decent ammunition thats one rung above the bulk pack stuff in quality, it runs as reliably as anything else. It does not jam and stovepipe like crazy. If it did, I'd know that something was wrong with it.

FWIW, my friend's old Marlin 60 also runs well for about 300 rounds. After that, it gets dirty and starts to have failures to feed. But as long as it's clean it's pretty reliable. I don't know if they all start to malfunction at that point, but I know that his does. It might be more accurate than my 10/22 but the truth is, neither of us have ever stopped shooting at aluminum cans, old fruit, clay pigeons, or balloons long enough to test them against each other on targets. For our purposes, both are entirely adequate.

I couldn't agree with you more here, Goon. Actually, I used to have a 1970s Marlin Glenfield 60. Sure enough, about 200-300 rounds in, she'd start stovepiping. Dirty ammo... It happens.

 

[Inebriated]

If you are stuck to $200, then my suggestions go as follows;

1 - Marlin 795 - $105 at Dick's, after a $25 rebate. I bought one on a whim, and have moved it to my favorite .22 semi auto.
2 - Savage Model 64 - $142, and in my experience with them, they may be picky on ammo, so have that in mind. Great rifle, otherwise.
3 - Mossberg 702 Plinkster - $165. Never used one, but I've not seen any complaints. Saw one at the range, and it ran fine.
4 - Marlin XT-22 - $179, and I have no experience with them.
5 - Savage MKII - $185, and is probably the best .22 bolt action short of a CZ, and even then, I prefer the Savage.

And for a scope, a Tasco from the wally world for $30, and another $8-$12 for rings. I have a WalMart Tasco and it's an excellent scope for $30... 3-9x32, and holds it's zero.

Personally, I'd either go with the Marlin 795 for semi-auto, or the Savage MKII for bolt action.

Just my .02 from my experience. Hope this helps!

 

[slowr1der]

I also agree with the Marlin 60's jamming after a few hundred rounds. At least that's how my friends are anyway.

That being said for the 10/22's, I will say the one I had did stovepipe quite often with Federal bulk ammo and a few others, but I found it loved the Winchester bulk ammo and CCI ammo was well as the Federal Game Shok ammo. So I shot it for quite a while just using that ammo. Later on I put a VQ extractor in there and then it shot anything I fed it without stovepiping including the Federal Bulk ammo it hated before. I personally feel the extractor is a worthwhile upgrade for the $11 it costs, but it's not absolutely necessary as long as you find which ammo it likes.

I did get a bad mag for mine, but other than that one which Ruger promptly replaced, I've never had to take apart a 10/22 mag to clean it and they have worked fine.

 

[CraigC]

I've found that if an automatic is gonna have a load it doesn't like, it's gonna be Federal bulk. In rifles, it tends to run 100fps slower than advertised and just doesn't seem to have enough oomph to cycle the action on some guns. My Ciener 1911 conversion won't run on the stuff at all but is dead reliable with Remington GB's.

 

[CraigC]

I have only bought one brick or Remington ammo in the past 25 years or so.

Conversely, I use 2000-3000rds of the stuff a month. It works and it's no dirtier than any other load of comparable cost.

 

[goon]

When I bought the 10/22 I also bought about $250 in .22LR Federal bulk ammo that I'm just now finishing up. It runs fine in my 10/22. I get an occasional FTF with it in the 10/22 and in other .22's, but it always cycles the action on my 10/22 when it fires. I think in about 6,000 rounds of it, I can only remember one failure to eject - I had to pry the casing from the chamber. I prefer Federal American Eagle 40 grain LRN as my general plinking/storing/small game load. Really, I prefer CCI Mini-mag solids, but that stuff's too expensive to shoot much of it - the Federal stuff is almost as good in my experience.
FWIW - bulk pack HP ammo is OK for plinking, but I don't like it for hunting or stopping a pest. I've seen it fail to penetrate on relatively small pest animals and it makes a nasty, dirty wound full of bone fragments and hair on squirrels or rabbits. I'd much rather just shoot right through.
As for the dirt - my 10/22 doesn't seem to care. I clean it once in awhile but I've never had stoppages because of fouling, only the occasional malfunction from rimfire ammo and FTE's when I first got it from a bad extractor. I'd guess it gets cleaned maybe every 1500 rounds, but it really hasn't needed it. In a weekend of shooting, my friend's model 60 does have predictable stoppages once it gets dirty. Ammo, lube, whatever causes it - mine runs and his stops. Not that the model 60 is a bad gun - I'd buy a good one if it came up at the right price - but my experience is what it is.

 

[WNTFW]

I have a model 60. Great gun.
Ruger 10/22 is a great gun also. It will tolerate a lot of rounds without cleaning. The rotary mag has some good points.
A 10/22 is easy to clear a malfunction in. Also easier to clean.

The bolt hold open release is like one of those puzzles that even after you figure is out you still aren't how it works! I had my brothers for a while and that was non-intuitive in my case.

 

[Russ Jackson]

That's just funny. They depreciate just as any other new firearm will, and they most certainly jam up from time to time.

My favorite little .22 autoloader is the Remington 552. Mine is an older model, haven't hadled one of the new ones to compare, but it runs great with anything I've fed it. They're also about the only auto that'll shoot shorts and longs as well.

I see 10/22s at gun shows selling used for the same price or more than new ones all the time. When you consider you can buy one for around $200 with a wood stock I think it is about the best value going. Unless something is broken or its really dirty I have never had an issue with jambing once you find the best ammo for it. I would bet alot of times it is because of poor ammo. My son and I will put a brick of ammo each through ours all the time and never have a jamb or misfire. I have also found a stock 10/22 to be more than accurate for small game. The 10 shot magazines are easy to carry and load. Super easy to clean and breakdown. While they are not perfect you will be hard pressed to find something that has stood the test of time and continue to be so well regarded. In my opinion they actually seem to get more accurate with time....Russ

 

[bhk]

I have a late 60's 10/22. I bought it new. Yep, I'm getting old. I also have a newer plastic stock/stainless model that now has a folding stock and peep sights on it. I don't recall either ever jamming. The Marlins I have shot jammed. Maybe I just shot bad apples, I don't know. Anyway, I am keeping my Rugers.

 

[CraigC]

I have to agree that it's difficult to find a "good deal" on a used 10/22. Never see them for less than $150, usually much more. Given how poorly aluminum stands against wear, I'll gladly pay an extra $50 for a new one every time. Or better yet, just build one from scratch with an aftermarket receiver that has a better finish on it anyway. Ruger hasn't anodized 10/22 receivers since 1968 so an anodized hardcoat like that found on the Nodak/Spud receiver is already a big improvement.

 

[Grayrock]

It's a little more than your budget, but she's your little girl, right? What about a S&W MP15-22. It would be a dandy plinker- and once YOU shoot it, your daughter may have to beg you to return it!

The great thing about a Ruger 10/22 is that it will never lose money, never jamb

Mine jambs.

 

[goon]

Cheapest deal I've found on a 10/22 was $125... but I missed out on it and my friend then decided to keep it. It's true that great deals don't tend to come up on them all that often. Some folks even think that they should ask more than full retail for one, especially if they stick the cheapest scope they can find on it before selling it.

I'd say if you're getting consistent malfunctions on a 10/22 or any other rifle, you need to figure out what is wrong and fix it. Any gun will not work correctly with worn, broken, or out of spec parts. I've found 10/22's to be very reliable when they are in proper working order. If not, sure, they're not going to run right.

 

[ms6852]

Go ahead and purchase the 10/22. Do not get caught up in the plastic stuff everybody does. The same people that complain about the "plastic" stuff probably own plastic guns too like the glocks, h&k's, springfield XD's , rifles with a manners stock, or an AR-15 with a magpul stock. The real savvy people do not call them plastic...but polymers instead that can be just as strong if not stronger than steel.

 

[Mike1234567]

RE goon's post regarding adding cheap add-on's to inflate prices...

This is common among all platforms of virtually everything. Many folks won't bother with their own research nor simply doing something as simple as bolting on and sighting in a scope. These are the people who are easily freed from the bonds of their excess currency.