223 optic compatibility with 308

gunhappy

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Upstate NY
I have heard the drops are comparable on a 223 bdc reticle and a 308 reticle. I have a 223 bdc 1-8 mounted on a 308 Axis and zeroed for 100 yards. Is it reasonable to expect the actual 308 drops to be close to where the 223 stadia lines are in the scope?
 
Based on ballistic calculators it’s close within the same class of bullets. 55 and 150 are close and 77 and 175 are close. They aren’t the same but at ranges where there is a difference I’m pretty sure I can’t shoot it.
 
If you zero your rifle with the bdc reticle it will very close to it. I zeroed my 30-06 at 200 yards with the bdc and hit gongs out to 600 yards just using the bdc reticle. Know that I zero all my rifles at 200 yards so the bdc reticle seems to compensate very well for the bullet drop regardless of caliber. Since most bdc scopes are compensated to 500 yards mine went to 600 because I zeroed and started at 200 so the next reticle normally marked for 200 was 300 in my rifle.
 
Very little difference.

Once you get to the distance where it might matter to any substantial amount, the quality of the rest of your equipment, and YOUR ABILITY to point the gun consistently, will be far more the larger factors of influence.
 
They are close enough for most modern cartridges firing pointed bullets. If you're MV is under about 3000 fps then zero at 100 yards and you'll be within 1-2" using the hash marks at 200, 300, 400 and 500. If your MV is 3000+ then zero at 200 and you'll be close enough to use the hash marks at 300, 400, 500 and 600.

Unless you and your rifle are capable of 1" groups at 500-600 yards. In that case twisting dials is more precise, but scopes with multiple aiming points is faster and better IMO for hunting. It takes a pretty good rifle, load, and shooter to shoot 3" groups as 300 yards. Being off by 1-2" is within the margin of error for big game hunting.

You still need to get to the range and see exactly where your bullets are impacting on paper. It helps to take notes and even create a cheat sheet that can be taped to the stock.

Keep in mind that even if your scope and load are perfectly calibrated; in the real world you almost never shoot at a game animal at EXACTLY 200, 300, 400, or 500 yards. It may be 215, 295, 463, or 505 yards. You're still going to have to use a bit of hold over or hold under. That's why you still have to shoot at the range so you'll know.
 
Thanks everyone for the responses. I’m prone to overthinking things so I wanted the input. Most of my shots will be under 100 so it proba won’t matter much I like to know
 
Thanks everyone for the responses. I’m prone to overthinking things so I wanted the input. Most of my shots will be under 100 so it proba won’t matter much I like to know
Best way to know is to go shoot the rifle and find out. Definitely don't assume.
 
Some manufacturers will state that their reticle will work with both. But as others have said, you really need to verify your load by shooting at different distances. I have a Primary Arms 4-16 ACSS HUD DMR Reticle - 308/223 that is designed for both calibers. I personally can't say how it works for both since I have only used it on my 308 AR.

 
Take note if it's a second focal plane scope the BDC will change with the power setting usually it's only correct at the highest power.
If you let me know what scope it is and what ammo you're using I'd be happy to input it in streloc and get closer yardages for you.
 
I do it all of the time. Right now, I'm running an acog with a .223 reticle on top of a 7.62x39 upper on an AR. As mentioned, BDC rarely coincides perfectly, even with the "proper" caliber and real world shots are rarely taken at convenient distances.

I'd highly recommend investing in a Ballistic app like Strelok. It is very useful. If you don't shoot beyond 200 yards or so regularly, you can calculate your maximum point blank range and just learn holds for when the need arises.
 
How big a deal it is depends on TGT size and distance. None of my BDCs align "perfectly":

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Add to that the differences due to conditions, and your data can be minute of steel, but not good enough for an animal.

My solution is a combination of the BDC reticle, a dope chart taped to my stock, and a CDS dial (left in MOA). I make 3 data rows for my dope charts; MOA (clicks), Inches, and the real value for the BDC. All based on the most likely temp, pressure and humidity and a 10MPH 90 degree wind. This has worked well for me out past 500yds.

IF its a longish shot, I take the time to run Strelok fed environmental data by my Kestrel to get the best ballistic solution possible, and I dial in. My bino chest pack has a phone holder right on top, so it's easy to run an update periodically while hunting. I'm not into the LR hunting thing, more of a mid-range, so for me BDC reticles work and IMHO they are faster.

True LR, and I'd use a mil or MOA X-Mass tree reticle.
 
Reality- when is an animal standing exactly 200, 300, or 400 yards away?

The BDC reticle is just a guide but you should go out and practice with the guide before attempting a shot.
 
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