22LR dilemma

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I'd rule out the MK I for the difficulty of mounting a red dot on it unless you limit yourself to something like the Burris Fastfire that has a mounting plate that replaces the rear sight.

For ease of red dot mounting the MK III are good assuming the rail is included. But for prices closer to your MK I you should be able to get new Beretta Neos or S&W M22A that have built in rails for red dots.

If you go with the MK I make sure its the version that will take the 10-round MK II mags as the old 9 round ones aren't so easy to find these days.
 
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Update:

I just brought in 6 pieces of used 22LR brass to try the DA pull on the S&W 617. I could only load two rounds, as there seemed to be a huge problem with the tightness of the cylinder bores and with the star ejector -- it didn't seem to line up properly with the charge holes. So I have scrapped that as an option.

And no-- it wasn't the ammo, because they had a gorgeous S&W 17 from the 1980's in the case right next to it, and all my 22LR brass slid in and out of those chambers like BUTTER.

They also have a LNIB w/box Ruger Mk III Hunter for $430.

One of my friends at the shop also suggested the Burris FastFire setup for the Mk I, but I am unfamiliar with that sight.
 
The Rugers are all very good guns and very accurate, but they are an absolute pain to break down and clean. You almost have to be an expert in the old parlor game of Twister to disassemble and reassemble.
 
Since the O.P.'s regular carry is J or K frame I'd recommend

S&W 617 hopefully the one you are looking at is a 4" Bbl.
& some say the trigger pull on the 6 shot is better than the
10 shooters

I have the 625 5" Bbl. and my 617 6"" bbl. has almost the same
sight radius due to the shorter K frame length

R-


Randall
 
UPDATE:

Just bought a Ruger Mk III Target in stainless steel, $475 OTD.

I guess it came down to needing a handgun that was already drilled and tapped for a scope mount. I have two Ultra Dots; one of them will go on it this evening.

I have not been thrilled with the reviews of the new S&W 617s (with locks), and the example I looked at (617-5) was poor.

I really like the Ruger Mk I. If my eyes were better and I was younger I would have purchased that.

If I ever find an S&W 617 with no lock that is facgtory drilled and tapped for a scope mount, and costs less than $1,000 -- I will probably get it.

Than you all for your input!
 
A guy on the CZ Forum has new 22-45 with a Fast Fire (he top mounted a thin rail) that's winning at Bullseye regularly. He has great videos of his shooting backing up the claims. Two cameras: one on the gun and another supoerimposed on the targets. That gun shoots. Shooting from 96-100 with 3-9X at 25 yards.
 
Having that MK 1 drilled n tapped is about 30.00 0r so- mounts are like what 10.00... would be easy enough to have done when the smith had it for a 75.00 trigger job- which they all need. Even a smith n wesson 17-617 and 41 benefit from a trigger job.

As far as take down n re assembly- there are plenty of you tube videos out that make it easy...

Enjoy that mk III - I have several mark 2's and love em!

As far as the guy that said 5000 rnds is two years of plinkin... we used to burn 550 plus on a sat morn in college... we went about every week- it doesn't take long and if a take kids- OMG its as bad as supplying Toilet paper for a couple woman after only providin for yourself for years... :eek:
 
If you go with the MK I make sure its the version that will take the 10-round MK II mags as the old 9 round ones aren't so easy to find these days.
With current magazines, you can reverse the pull down tab to the other dude, do it'll work fine with the older Rugers.
 
1. Ruger Mark I Standard, used but like new, blued, 6" barrel, fixed sights, no box. Made in 1976 (Bicentennial model). $220.
I don't know if the old MkIs come pre-drilled for optical sights. Otherwise I would consider this the best deal for your use.

2. S&W 617, used, with internal lock, six-shot, LNIB, with box, $620.
I know the older K-22s are sweet, sweet, guns. I would expect the newer ones like this to be almost as good. IMO the price is good, but not a steal by any means.

3. Ruger Mk III Target, Stainless, NIB, $470.
IF truly new, it should includea factory base for scope rings. I consider that a decent price for a new MkIII Hunter, although prices often vary by location.

4. Ruger Mk III Competition, NIB, $530.
Like the Target model, this one should come with a scope base, too. This seems overpriced to me, though, as I bought a brand new one from Davidson's about a year ago for $100 less and even today would consider anything more than $500 to be too much and would expect a price closer to the Target model. Again, priced can very depending on location.

Of the the two MKIIIs, I personally like the Competition models better, but for the prices you quoted I would go for the Target model.
 
I would go for the Ruger Mk 1. I have one I bought new when they first came out (for $37.50 at the LGS). I had a red dot on mine for years, but just pulled it off recently as I want to go back to the iron sights. My eyes are old (as is the rest of me as well) but I use one of these at the range now, which helps tremendously:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/936878/lyman-hawkeye-shooters-diopter-optic-aid

The red dot was fun too, but it changes the feel of any 22 quite a bit, no longer that sleek little weapon. Some people certainly prefer them.

As far as fun factor, everyone that has shot the Ruger loves it, can't say I have any experience with the other guns. As far as cleaning, I find it just a little tricky re-assembling it if I have not done so in a while. There are Youtubes about it, or once you have it down write it in your own words in your manual so it's easier next time. It isn't all that tough. If you shoot and dis/re-assemble on a regular basis it's second nature and takes no time at all. Good luck!
 
I have a Mark I with the target barrel that was gifted to me when I was 15, that was almost 40 years ago.
I had it drilled and tapped for a Burris Fast Fire II.
You would have to spend a heck of a lot more money to beat that combination.
 
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