30-06 eddystone to 35 whelen

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rwmcquigge

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i have a 30-06 eddystone and was wondering how hard it would be to make it into a .35 whelen,would it just consist of a barrel change or would their be some changes to the magazine as well? also the fins on top have been ground down so it will have to be machined to match the front part where the barrel attaches
can some one give me the what to do's, so i can do this propperly.
also i will need to know where to get a nice stock?
thanks !:confused:















































































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You don't say if you want to replace the rear sight. If you do, you want to remove it and the fill the hole with a plate and weld it in. Then you file the rear receiver bridge down to the right contour. If you plan to scope it, the scope mount bases are made for a certain contour and height; it might be worthwhile getting those first and making the receiver match the bases.

Otherwise, the only work needed is a barrel change. You could have the barrel reamed out and re-rifled, but that would probably cost more than a new barrel and it is a lot harder to find someone who can do it. If you want to "straighten" the trigger guard for looks, that would be extra, of course.

Many folks recommend a relief cut when removing an Eddystone barrel as some are so tight that the receiver can be cracked trying to take them off; I have done that, but recommend trying first to see how tight the barrel is before cutting it.

Otherwise, it is an easy job. I think semi-finished stocks are still available; check www.boydsgunstocks.com for info.

Jim
 
35 whelen is very do able with that action, if you just grind off the rear wings and fill and weld the hole. you will have the Remington model 30 contour, Brownells sells a fixture for $70 or $80 bucks that fits into a lathe that will give you a Remington 700 contour That's the one I use, its easier to find bases. When welding the hole put in mandrill as heat sink and use Brownells heat sink past or you will warp action. Drilling and tapping can be a bitch, some of these actions are real hard, I drill and tap after the welding and then send it to heat treating. definitely put in the relief cut on the barrel befor trying to remove. When you square the action don't be surprised to find it 7 to 10 thousandths off.
 
Eddystone to 35 Whelen

The information that Jim Keenan is about right! Eddystone if I
remember was basically Remington and sometimes the receivers
were cracked or would crack when barrels were removed. I have
two 1917s:) :) that were bought back in the days when they could be
found for $30. Many barrels were rough due to corrosive ammo
being used, but were quite serviceable.
I found two Winchesters that I rebarreled and sporterized. The
first had a Douglas 25-06 Prem. barrel before Remington adopted
the cartridge. The other was rebarreled to 6mm Rem with 1 in 10
Apex. The Apex will do a 10 round 1/2 min. at 200 yards. The
25-06 will do close to the same, but have not used very many
varied powders yet.
The removal of the barrels was not an easy task, but did not use
a relief cut. The removal of the rear sight ears ( contoured mine and
milled them down to fit Redfield Jr. one piece base mounts...like
found on A-4 Snipers. Took the hump out of the trigger guard by
cut and wield.
Both rifles are extreamely accurate, but I would not want to carry
either all day. Many of the 1917 and 1914s were used for magnum
cartridges and the actions are perhaps heavier than any of the others.
Boyd's makes some very nice stocks. I replaced the wood on six
Garand Ceremonial Rifles. Look like new, and close to a drop in fit.
 
One more point. If you decide to replace the barrel, and the old barrel is in good shape and you didn't have to cut it or anything, you can probably sell it to some of the folks here and cover part of the conversion costs.

Jim
 
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