30-30 plated bullets and tube magazine.

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AJC1

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So in tube magazines I always apply the full rol crimp. So I read that's a no no on plated bullets. So is a tighter interference fit aka neck tension the solution. Is it a ballance between no movement and swaging. Never loaded a plated bullet so I figured I'd pick the most complex scenario first.
 
I'm surprised you're not plating your own by now. Slacker! ;)

A light roll crimp "shouldn't" hurt thick plated. But, just to be safe, check the barrel for leading and copper fouling after each round until you've got the hang of it. It's possible they won't need more than a taper crimp and good neck tension.
 
Do you set it by feel, sight or measurement???
I set it by sight-ish. Not really scientific.
You can probably do a better job by measuring with calipers or something. I read the instructions that came with the die set and basically followed them. This was a few years ago, so here it is from memory...
You can look down into the die from the top and see the collet close around the neck. There is visible space between the collet leaves. I then dialed in the die a bit and visually inspected the crimp around the case mouth. I did this a few times until I saw a nice visible crimp groove all the way around the neck. After adjusting, there is still a little bit of space between the collet leaves in the die.
This is totally unscientific, but pressing on the bullet causes no set back. I haven't had any problems with them in the tube magazine.
I did crimp one all the way to check how it worked and it visually looked a little over crimped.

I use Berry's 150 grain plated with Unique or Trail Boss. I recently purchased a LEE mold that has a canalure built in, so I will switch to a roll crimp on those.
 
So in tube magazines I always apply the full rol crimp. So I read that's a no no on plated bullets. So is a tighter interference fit aka neck tension the solution. Is it a ballance between no movement and swaging. Never loaded a plated bullet so I figured I'd pick the most complex scenario first.
I use a Lee FCD on those, which is a collet type crimp. I run the same on coated, plated, and jacketed. Plus, with any tube mag, neck tension is king. I try and avoid shot out brass, and I religiously anneal my lever brass.
 
I set it by sight-ish. Not really scientific.
You can probably do a better job by measuring with calipers or something. I read the instructions that came with the die set and basically followed them. This was a few years ago, so here it is from memory...
You can look down into the die from the top and see the collet close around the neck. There is visible space between the collet leaves. I then dialed in the die a bit and visually inspected the crimp around the case mouth. I did this a few times until I saw a nice visible crimp groove all the way around the neck. After adjusting, there is still a little bit of space between the collet leaves in the die.
This is totally unscientific, but pressing on the bullet causes no set back. I haven't had any problems with them in the tube magazine.
I did crimp one all the way to check how it worked and it visually looked a little over crimped.

I use Berry's 150 grain plated with Unique or Trail Boss. I recently purchased a LEE mold that has a canalure built in, so I will switch to a roll crimp on those.
I would be very happy to hear about your casting adventures, and anything you learn. I may get the lee 170 rf soon.....
 
Those are what I was looking at. The only have 150, I was hoping for 170 also but beggars and all.
I too use those. 29.5 IMR 3031 and a light roll crimp. It shoots well in my wife's Marlin. My friend's Marlin, and my nephew's Model 64. My brother's 94 has pitting and it doesn't like them.
They kill deer well also.
 
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