I am just getting into reloading for .308. My rifle has a 20 inch barrel. The powders I have are IMR 4064 and Winchester 748. I also have bullets ranging from 155 grain to 175 grain. I was wondering about how many grains of powder I should use per shot for the most accuracy. Are lower charges under 40 grains better or are higher charges. I will mostly shoot at 75 yards.
.308 reloading
- Thread starter bullzeye8
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Pick you bullet weight out of your reloading manual and start at the START load shown.
Then work up in steps until you find a load your rifle likes.
rc
Then work up in steps until you find a load your rifle likes.
rc
1948CJ2A
Member
I chose 150gr Nosler Ballistic Tips. I use 44gr of IMR 4064. Most shots I make with it are inside 200 yards. Anything longer and I opt for one of my mags.
The thing I don't like about reloading for the 308 is the fact that so many loads are compressed. I guess I'm old fashioned and like to hear the powder when I shake the cartridge (just a reloading trick to make sure nothing gets fired in my rifles without powder).
The thing I don't like about reloading for the 308 is the fact that so many loads are compressed. I guess I'm old fashioned and like to hear the powder when I shake the cartridge (just a reloading trick to make sure nothing gets fired in my rifles without powder).
Reloadron
Contributing Member
I suggest you heed the words of RC.
I have no way of knowing what your rifle is or what barrel twist it has. I have 3 rifles I shoot 308 (7.62 NATO) in and they each have loadings they shoot better. What works well in one rifle won't always work well in the next.
Using your hand loading manual with IMR 4064 and Winchester 748 start low for your chosen bullets and work up. You need to find what works well for your specific rifle.
Ron
According to my manuals 42.3 gr of 4064 is the suggested starting load. You can run into as many problems with under loaded as over loaded ammo. 45 gr is listed as a max load, but it could be less with individual rifles. I'd start at around 42.5 gr and experiment to see what works best. As long as you stay under the max and watch for excessive pressure you'll be fine.
Slightly compressed loads are a good thing. If there is enough room for powder to move around in the case you will get inconsistent powder burns and inconsistent accuracy. Also by making careful powder choices you can prevent dangerous over loads. There are some powders that you simply cannot fit enough into a case to make it dangerous. That varies by case and powder. If using a powder that does not almost completely fill the case you increase the possibility of making a mistake and get too much in there without realizing it by sight.
Slightly compressed loads are a good thing. If there is enough room for powder to move around in the case you will get inconsistent powder burns and inconsistent accuracy. Also by making careful powder choices you can prevent dangerous over loads. There are some powders that you simply cannot fit enough into a case to make it dangerous. That varies by case and powder. If using a powder that does not almost completely fill the case you increase the possibility of making a mistake and get too much in there without realizing it by sight.
1948CJ2A
Member
jmr40 said:
I don't think compressed loads are any better than non-compressed loads. I can see the point you're trying to make here but I have many literal "skins" on my wall killed with non-compressed loads AND many targets with groups well under 1" that would argue with your accuracy statement.
Maybe I would change my mind if I were match shooting... maybe not. Honestly, I just go with what works.
Also - I use reloading manuals to select the powder choices. Shouldn't be anything dangerous there so long as you stay within the published limits. My original point was that the 308 tends to have more compressed loads than most of the other rifles I handload. And I prefer non-compressed loads.
In general, 100% or close load density is a good thing, but nothing in reloading is written in stone.
My accuracy load for .308 in my rifle is ever so slightly compressed, but there is always more than one sweet spot for a given bullet/powder combination.
Start low, work up, and you will find two or more sweet spots as you progress upwards. Pick a safe one.
My accuracy load for .308 in my rifle is ever so slightly compressed, but there is always more than one sweet spot for a given bullet/powder combination.
Start low, work up, and you will find two or more sweet spots as you progress upwards. Pick a safe one.
45lcshooter
Member
RC hit it.
Pick your bullet and start a the START low load. Make 3-5 shells with that load, and 3-5 with the next load, for rifles the next load is .5 grain, that's what most guys do. And keep going with the loads, but beware, hotter the loads the more strain it puts on the casing, and you won't get as many reloads out of it as you would a low grain casings.
Your accuracy is compiled of several factors. Main one is YOU, rifle, scope, your loaded case. And if you want to get more technical for accuracy, you need to take into consideration, temp nature, humidity, wind, elevation at longer distances, ballistic coefficients- pretty much everything a sniper would be looking for.
Pick your bullet and start a the START low load. Make 3-5 shells with that load, and 3-5 with the next load, for rifles the next load is .5 grain, that's what most guys do. And keep going with the loads, but beware, hotter the loads the more strain it puts on the casing, and you won't get as many reloads out of it as you would a low grain casings.
Your accuracy is compiled of several factors. Main one is YOU, rifle, scope, your loaded case. And if you want to get more technical for accuracy, you need to take into consideration, temp nature, humidity, wind, elevation at longer distances, ballistic coefficients- pretty much everything a sniper would be looking for.
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