I would highly recommend a forester hp tool over a hp mold. The difference is it's easier to control the size and depth of the hp itself. With a hp mold you're locked into the shape/size/depth of the hp and have to work the alloy around the design for the velocity of that hp design/bullet design.
Not all hp's are created equal nor are al the bullet designs created equal. Some of the different "keith" style hp molds out ther.
lyman 358477 with the standard .125" hp pin that has a short rounded tip
The #26 is a cramer that has a tapered hp (.125" to a point) and a large bottom drive band/bullet base (excellent velocitys)
The #51 is a h&g with the standard .125" hp pin with rounded point
lyman 358439 is the hp version of the 358429 with the standard.125" hp pin with the rounded point
More hp's for the 38spl/357's:
The top right bullet is a special order lyman 358156. Instead of the standard order .125" pin it uses a .140" pin that is the standard 44/45 cal hp pins in the lyman molds. The bottom center bullet is an extremely rare cramer "hunter" bullet. Note the small hp hole. The hp pin in that bullet mold starts out 3/32" and tapers to a point.
Typically the higher the velocity the smaller the hp is with cast bullets. Same bullet mold with 3 different hp pins.
This is why the forester hp tool is superior to a hp mold. You can make different size hp holes in any cast bullet along with how deep the hp goes into the bullets nose. Typical hp pins in molds are designed to have the hp extend down to the top drive band. With the forester tool you control the depth of the hp making anything from a cupped hp to a huge hp that goes 2/3 the length of the bullet.
Just something to think about:
1 hp mold/1 bullet design/1 hp design VS 1 tool that is capable of putting hp's/multiple hp designs in any cast bullet or altering /making hp's in jacketed bullets.
