3D MODEL - Smith & Wesson 629 .44 Magnum Performance

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2013

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Hello!

My name is Darius and I'm 3D modeler.
Currently I'm working on Smith & Wesson 629 .44 Magnum Performance


But I have huge problem to find good references photos.
So I'm here to ask you for help.

If you are the owner of this revolver, or maybe even a gunsmith, It would be a great help for me if you would like to share a huge resolution photographs with me.

I need as many detailed photos as you can deliver.

Also I want to model inside of the revolver with all the mechanics parts.

I hope that you can help me to create this model!

Under you will find the original topic on the 3D Modeling forum where I share work progress.

Best regards!

Obiekt3d: Smith & Wesson 629 .44 Magnum Performance

PS. I'm sorry for my english..
 
I just wanted to improve my modeling skills.
Also I will paint textures for this model.

I will try to make low-poly model as well, which can be used in the game

So the purpose is make me a better modelar.
 
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2013 said:
I'm from Poland.
Click to expand...


Cool. Have you tried the S&W website? I believe they give a 360 degree view of their model 629.

Model 629


Then there's places like Brownells that give schematics of the inside.....
Inside a 629


One can also Google Model 629 Smith and Wesson and click on images to get thousands of results.
 
I have dozens photos from google, but it is not enough to make a good model.

I need close ups with good resolution.

Check this picture

IMG_1408.jpg

If you are not a 3d modeler you will probably think that is enough to make good model from inside, but the truth is that is not enough.
Is not enough because there is many levels of the cuts inside the frame, and it is hard to tell how deep they are.

I was studying this shape long enough to finally understand that I do not have enough resources to make it right.

This is why I'm here :)

And I assure you that I spent more than one hour to search photos, much more...

Diferent light setups used by photographers create a distortion in the oval shapes.
So it is very hard to model this gun precisely.

When you want to model something very accurate you need many photos of the modeled object from one source.
Without advanced lighting setups which make the object looks unnatural.

Also I need all parts from inside the revolver.

I found few Disassembly topics, but with small pictures, but better than nothing.

Anyway thank you for your help but I need something more than google to make it perfect.
 
2013 said:
I have dozens photos from google, but it is not enough to make a good model.

I need close ups with good resolution.

Check this picture


If you are not a 3d modeler you will probably think that is enough to make good model from inside, but the truth is that is not enough.
Is not enough because there is many levels of the cuts inside the frame, and it is hard to tell how deep they are.

I was studying this shape long enough to finally understand that I do not have enough resources to make it right.

This is why I'm here :)

And I assure you that I spent more than one hour to search photos, much more...

Diferent light setups used by photographers create a distortion in the oval shapes.
So it is very hard to model this gun precisely.

When you want to model something very accurate you need many photos of the modeled object from one source.
Without advanced lighting setups which make the object looks unnatural.

Also I need all parts from inside the revolver.

I found few Disassembly topics, but with small pictures, but better than nothing.

Anyway thank you for your help but I need something more than google to make it perfect.
Click to expand...


If that's the case, then I doubt if pictures from the average casual gun forum member is going to be enough for you, especially considering the required "advanced lighting setups". It would seem having the gun itself to take the required measurements and details would be better than any picture. You are correct, I am not a 3-D modeler, but I have carved duck decoys and gun stocks. Hard to make them exact dimensionally and/or look real with only 2-D knowledge. Are you doing these models freehand or with a 3-D Printer?
 
Beacuse of my poor english you did not understund, I'm sorry.
I do not need "advanced lighting setup" for photos.

Just many photos of this gun from every possible angle.

I need photos like this, many and huge resolution, so I can see every hard edge from close.

http://max3d.pl/forum/showthread.php?t=94162&p=1209825&viewfull=1#post1209825

It would be great if I have technical plans "blueprints" but I think it is impossible to find something like this.

The point is when you have many photos you will see every curvature from every angle.

Metal is very hard material to make good photo, beacuse is shiny and reflect light, also light bounce when it touch metal.

What is cheating a viewer, so what you do not see properly on first picture, maybe you will see on the other.

From research I did, I know this gun is based on the N Frame, so maybe member which is a owner another gun with N Frame cam help me with pictures from inside the gun, and with mechanical parts as well.

I do not need measurements of this gun, just many photos, beacuse sometimes is so hard to see curvatures.
This model will stay only in 3D space, so I will not 3D print it for sure.
This is free hand modeling, but you have tools, like "snaps" and other which are very helpful when you want make straight line.
But the whole process I have open many picture browsers with different pictures, so I can quickly check that the shape is correct or not.
You have to be patient, and do not rush with your model.


It is possible that after when it will be finished I will make game model.
Also it is possible that I will try to model some engravings, I do not know yet.
 
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I understand what you are doing. I always envied the modeling software used by my mechanical engineering counterparts, especially the 3D modeling in PRO-E. Amazing stuff and I admire your efforts.

However, here is one major problem. Most web images in forums and on websites will not get you the resolution and size you want and need. For example you really don't want typical .jpg and .png files. What you really need is RAW image files. Using my Canon EOS 7D shooting RAW image files (CR2 files) a typical macro quality image is a 27 to 30 MB file size. Typical web images are around 1 or 2 MB with 2 MB being very large for the web.

Possibly you might get some help from S&W if you contact them directly. They may even be able to send you some of their drawings. There are quite a few 3D modeling formats out there. While in my electrical world I never worked directly with the stuff I was around it on the mechanical side of the house. Then depending on format you may be able to use something free from Source Forge or other open source to convert what you might get to what you might be able to work with.

Even if for example I open up my N Frame Model 29 and use a macro lens the RAW image files will be huge. If I convert them to .png which is a raster graphics file format that supports lossless data compression the compression will ruin the detail you want and need in the images. Even though it is a lossless file type.

I would look to S&W for some help. Present your case that you are a student learning 3D CAD modeling and need some help. Even though they may claim Intellectual Property owned by Smith & Wesson and say no, you might get lucky. Hang in there and I admire your ambition.

Just My Take....
Ron
 
Thank you Ron for your post!

To be honest I don't need to be perfect with this model, I mean measurements don't have to be perfect.

What I care about is overall shape, all edges and curvature.

The viewer will do not notice if the model will be too short or too tall few millimeters.

Simple JPG file it enough for me, just have to be huge.
The point is that on the small photo you will see main shape but you lost details.
It is hard to say how sharp the edge is when photo is small, or when you try to compare photos from different sources.
When the photo is huge, you can see that one edge is sharper from another.

Also I do not work in the engineering software, and like I said I do not try to make perfect mechnical model.
It just have to look right.

This is like a challenge for me you know.
Beacuse it is easy to make something similar, but when do you want make your model nearly the same, then can be hard.

I mean after this model I will be for sure better modeler, faster and more accurate.
 
@BCRider Thank you so much!
I will keep updating, so please stay tuned :)
 
Very impressive. That kind of attention to detail is why our people broke the code for the Enigma machine! (From a guy whose last name ends in -ski)

:)
 
@sgt127 Thank you! :)

The biggest problem is that I do not have this revolver, or technical plans.
 
Hang in there. With a topic like this running I'm sure that folks will remember it. Then when they are opening up their guns to do some other work they'll be inclined to take pictures of the parts and send them to you.

For the action components it isn't only just the 629 that you can use for photos. ANY N frame gun uses the same frame and action parts. So photos from a 29, 629, 27 or 28 are all going to be useable by you for this project. The 27 and 28 are the .357Mag versions. But other than the size of the chamber and barrel holes all the other parts are 100% the same. So now you've got that much larger a group for possible pictures.
 
For sure it will be easier for me now to find photos, thank you @BCRider! :)
 
@sgt127 Thank you!

From what I see on this picture my model is accurate :)
Not perfect, because without technical plans it is impossible, but I'm happy with results.
 
I have the 629. I also have the lights and the cameras to do this. But to be honest what you're asking would take several hours at least to complete. I'd like to help you but I just don't have that much time to invest. Sorry.
 
Maybe in the future when you will clean your revolver you could make few pictures :)
 
I'm more busy than a one armed wall paper worker. But towards the end of August or part way into September I'll see if I can set up my tripod along with a couple of lights and pull my 28 apart.

I'll lay the gun and parts out on a squared off grid I've got along with some key measurements of things for you.

Do you prefer Imperial or Metric? One is as easy as the other with the digital caliper I've got.
 
@BCRider Thank you!

I think I will finish modeling after 2 weeks, then I want start making textures.
Before texturing you have to prepare model for it by making "UVW Unwrap"
After this point you do not model anymore, because you destroy your UVW Unwrap.
I want to tell you that I would love to see your photos, but maybe I will not use it. So you should decide, that you will make them or not, I don't want to make you busy (maybe for nothing)
The point is a bit to late for photos, but like I said, maybe I will remodel inside in the future.

I use centimeters as measurement.
 
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