44 Mag rifle load

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fouled bore

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I am wanting to load some 44 Mag plated bullets for a carbine rifle. I have some Berry's plated bullets that are rated for a max 1250 fps. I have H110 for the XTP loads I use. I know the bullets will most likely be traveling out of the rifle at greater than 1250 fps even with a reduced load for the plated bullets. I don't want to lead up the barrel and would like to save a little $ while my son can get some trigger time on this gun. Any thought or suggestions?
 
Any data I have is the same for pistols or rifles. A bit over 1250 shouldn't cause problems.
 
Your min starting load with H110 is going to be more than a bit over 1250fps from a carbine. The only solution I see is to find another powder for the plated bullets such as unique.
 
Second TimSr, try some Unique or 231 for the plated bullets.

Going off of memory, 296 and a 240gr XTP would give me 1700-fps with ease in a 20" .44 Magnum Marlin lever gun. I think a moderate charge of 231 gave over 1200-fps with a 240gr lead round nose slug. However my notes aren't handy since I sold all of my .44s and don't load it anymore. I do remember my "plinker" 240gr .44 Magnum load was about 950-fps from a 6" 629, and the charge was near a starting load of 231.
 
H110 and plated in a rifle isn't going to work. You also should never download h110 below minimum charge! Read that again, for your sons safety! That's 1 powder that is only good for full tilt mag loads and nothing more.


Unique,universal, or something in that burn range will be what you want.
My Marlin plinking load is 8gr unique, 240gr extreme plated, in a mag case.
 
I am wanting to load some 44 Mag plated bullets for a carbine rifle. I have some Berry's plated bullets that are rated for a max 1250 fps. I have H110 for the XTP loads I use. I know the bullets will most likely be traveling out of the rifle at greater than 1250 fps even with a reduced load for the plated bullets. I don't want to lead up the barrel and would like to save a little $ while my son can get some trigger time on this gun. Any thought or suggestions?


Yeah, get an appropriate powder to use with the plated bullets and stay within the velocities stated by the manufacturer. This would not only make you a safe and responsible handloader, but a safe and responsible father. None of those 240 gr Berry's bullets have a cannelure for a firm roll crimp, something which is needed by H110/W296 for proper ignition along with not downloading it. Otherwise you are asking for a squib load, a stuck bullet and possibly a dangerous scenario if your son follows the squib with another round.
 
Need a faster powder but don't assume they'll be slowpokes either. My standard sixgun load is a 240gr SWC over 10.0gr Unique and it still runs 1450fps out of a rifle.
 
You can easily load .44 mag cases down to .44 SPCL velocities with a plethora of fast powders...

My favorite for this job is Red Dot...

Your accuracy may not be what you expect unless you have bullets fatter than .431" as the SAAMI spec for the rifle/carbine is .431" as opposed to handgun at .429"...
 
use the same load data for cast or the starting loads for the same weight bullets
just dont push max loads 2400 would be my first pick then blue dot / red dot
 
Your accuracy may not be what you expect unless you have bullets fatter than .431" as the SAAMI spec for the rifle/carbine is .431" as opposed to handgun at .429"...

Uhhh... that's the first time I've ever heard someone say there's a different SAAMI spec for the same cartridge depending on whether you'll run it through a rifle or through a handgun.

.431" is the common size for cast lead bullets and .429" is the usual diameter for jacketed. SAAMI drawings for the cartridge and for the chamber are slightly different, but I don't believe you'll find them to differ between carbines and handguns.
 
Most people are unaware that SAAMI spec for .44 Mag Rifle is NOT the same as .44 Mag Handgun...

But it's true...

Diameter for Revolver/Pistol is spec'ed at .429" Groove / .417" Bore

Diameter for Rifle is spec'ed at .431" Groove / .424" Bore

2 Seperate PDF's under SAAMI/ANSI Standards at this page:

http://saami.org/specifications_and_information/index.cfm

Page 130 for handgun, and page 197 for rifle...

I am aware of no other cartridge where this is the case...
 
Very interesting!

Has anyone informed the gun manufacturers?



:) Meaning to say I don't think I recall seeing this difference mentioned in actual firearms measured.
 
Marlin 1894's are known for actually being to this spec if not a tad larger in some cases...MarlinOwners.com and CastBoolits.com have many threads on this...

My 1990 vintage 1894S slugs at .431", and will not shoot .429" jacketed any tighter than 4 inch groups at 50 yards (with a scope)...

Going to the Hornady .430" 265gr JFP gives me cloverleafs with full doses of H110...

I need a minimum of .432" cast lead in order to not shoot shotgun patterns at 50 yards...

Lots of 1894's have been sold because the owner was unaware, and just 'could not get the darn thing to shoot'...
 
H110 and plated in a rifle isn't going to work. You also should never download h110 below minimum charge! Read that again, for your sons safety! That's 1 powder that is only good for full tilt mag loads and nothing more.



This would not only make you a safe and responsible handloader, but a safe and responsible father. None of those 240 gr Berry's bullets have a cannelure for a firm roll crimp, something which is needed by H110/W296 for proper ignition along with not downloading it.

Thanks for the information, that's why I am here asking questions.

I loaded some up with 22gr of H110 for my S&W 629. I am using Lee dies and the factory crimp die has a roll crimp. I was told by Lee to only crimp enough to take out the flair. I enjoy reloading and try to read as much as I can. I have not found any sources that I can get powder usage/info like what I quoted above. Is there a book that I can get that will tell me what H110 (along with other powders) is best used for and the fact that it needs to have a firm crimp ( I did just recently read about it needing a firm crimp in another post). I have been told to always try to pick a powder from my load data that will fill up most of the case.

Here is an example of a bad pick, I have some SR7625 that I found to load 380. At the time this was the only powder I had found off my load data. Bad choice, at max load it would just then cycle the gun. I have since started using HP-38.

I have some hand gun load data for the SR7625 that is below the 1250 fps at the starting load. I may try that. Does anyone know if this will work ok? I was told that the 7625 is a good shotgun powder for reduced kick.

Thanks for all the replies!
 
I am using Lee dies and the factory crimp die has a roll crimp.
I was told by Lee to only crimp enough to take out the flair....
Unless something is going on that makes no sense to me whatsoever, you must have a medium-significant crimp for a 44Mag (or even a 44 Special).
Lee's must be referencing cartridges for an automatic, definitely not a 44Mag or any of its companion/rimmed magnum pistol cartridges

1. The powder (especially the likes of something like H110/W296 or even a medium-burn powder) requires it.
(Use a Mag primer with these ball powders as well)
2. The bullet must be secured against telescoping [into the case in a magazine tube] or out of the case in an rotary magazine/cylinder.
 
That is what I have read many times from other sources. I would like to see what others have to say. I am going to keep a close check on them as I shoot them.
 
Lee lied to you. Anything over powder puff mouse fart loads need to be crimped at least to a "medium" level. If the bullet has a cannelure, use it. Mag loads need a heavy crimp. Here is mine. It measures .447

That's a starline case and a .430 xtp.
 
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By the pic, I wouldn't shoot those knowing the load. If they are plated, I REALLY wouldn't shoot em. They look plated to me. Pics can be deceiving so, What do they measure with your calipers?

Just fyi. When you push a plated bullet too fast, the plating strips off and can lodge in your barrel and or foul it up really bad. This can and will raise pressures to an
Unsafe level.
 
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More crimp is needed than that.
Back to the question however. If those are plated bullets, take them apart.

If they are fmj, which I can't believe they are since they don't have a cannelure, tighten your crimp die an 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Then insert one of those rounds, crimp it more, and remeasure the diameter of the crimp.
 
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