My break-in regimine for my new S&W's differs from my new Rugers. Make sure the firearm is unloaded. With the S&Ws, it's a good blast with a decent aerosol gun cleaner, like RemOil, once the grips are off. Direct it into each opening, while holding it vertically, muzzle upward, over shop rags or paper towels. You'll be shocked at what comes out. Replace the grips.
Next, be sure it is unloaded - and your ammo is elsewhere. Dry fire the stew out of it - 1,000 plus times, changing hands frequently. Follow this up with another blasting. If it is a Ruger, complete dissection is all but necessary - the burrs I've found in all of my new Ruger SAs, SP101, and SRH wouldn't remove themselves. I usually take the sideplate off my S&Ws to clean them at this point - and, if it isn't a dedicated HD or CCW, I change the springs, too.
Don't dissect your revolver without using proper hollow ground screwdrivers! You can find decent screwdriver kits, as well as reduced/smoother Wolff springs at Brownell's, etc. If the least bit squeamish, find a decent gunsmith. If he suggests 'recurving' the hammer leaf spring' and/or 'clipping' the main spring (J-frames have a wound hammer spring) and trigger return springs, go elsewhere - always keep the OEM springs stock - and go with different springs.
I'll bet this will 'fix' your buddy's sticking trigger... but, you can always send it 'home' for a check up - on their dime. The call and return shipping for a Ruger is on you, of course. I never had to send a S&W back for a factory defect. Rugers have all had to be dissected here - save one with casting bubbles between the cylinder exits (.45 Colt Redhawk) - it went 'home' for a new cylinder, etc. Love S&Ws - and really like my Rugers - after the aggravation.
Stainz
