If you plan to shoot it, I would go for the Henry.
I remember when the first Miroku M1886's came out, the 24 inch versions, and they weighed a ton. The rifles also had this smooth crescent buttplate, antique buckhorn sights, and no way to scope the thing.
My Marlin 1894 in 44 Magnum hurt to shoot with its straight plastic buttplate, so I added a rubber buttplate. I have no desire to shoot a higher recoiling caliber with one of those thin, curved, 19th metal buttplates. Yes they look period, and there are very good reasons they went on the ash heap of history.
I don't know what rear sights are on the short 1886's, but if they are true to period, the buckhorn is an awful rear sight. I do not recall if the receiver is drilled and tapped for a rear aperture sight. I did put a Williams on my Marlin 1894, a much better rear sight than some wacko period open sight on the barrel.
I looked at the Henry, it is a seven pound rifle, a scope will bring it up to at least 8 pounds,
The website shows these with a scope on top, and it has a nice rubber butt pad. I cannot say enough about having an optical sight on top, especially in low light conditions. I will say, you can scratch stainless and you won't cry because you can polish minor scratches out. One of those high polished blued 1886 replicas, the finish will wear and scratch. It costs hundreds to have the things re blued. You will be leaving it in the rack so you don't damage the thing walking through the woods. Living in Mobile, you better oil and grease up any blued rifle as the salt air environment from the Gulf and bay will rust up any blued finish. There are so many mosquitos in the area, that yellow fever wiped out the town of
Blakeley. Humidity, fungus and molds ate the wood buildings and really nothing original is left at Blakeley.
Of course, if you are only going to play cowboy, might as well get the one that looks period. The most damage a 1886 will see is when the case is unlocked, and locked at the games.