I modified an RCBS manual trimmer like this http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/715371 for speed. (You will need shellholders for it, and Midway sells the "full version" of this trimmer with shellholders [for an illustrated example].) "Used" will cost you about 50% of internet vendor prices. If you have any problems with a used one, the warranty would cover it, but they're damn near bullet-proof and idiot-proof save for rust. I've found tolerance to be +- .001" and that's good enough for me; I can't shoot the difference between two casings that differ .002" in length. (My M1A Super Match is .4-.6MOA to 600yd, and my Savage 10FP is < .35" at 100yd so far.)
There's no reason to buy the electric; you can set that up for yourself for way less money. RCBS sells a 3-way cutter that trims, chamfers, and deburrs in one stroke, for ~ $35. It's well worth the cost.
It's been a long time ago since I did this, so somebody help me out here if I've ommited anything on the shaft modification:
To set up the trimmer for electric operation, remove the crank handle from the shaft. Replace it with a small bolt that's threaded all the way to the 'head' (I spun extra nuts down the bolt's shaft to allow a longer grip [you'll understand what I mean in a second]). Buy a 1/4"-drive socket that'll fit over the bolt (and extra nuts). Attach a 1/4"-drive universal (kind of spring-loaded) extension and attach it to a hand-held drill (110V or battery, it doesn't matter). The universal extension will allow the proper "slop" so your drill doesn't have to be perfectly in line with the shaft. (I had to put a small plastic box under my drill to elevate it-- the bottom half of a reloading die box upside down is just about perfect). So far, all this is GP for thems of us that cruise the reloading forums. I didn't think this up myself.
Here's my personal addition:
I cut a couple of deep notches into the lever handle on the left side of the RCBS case trimmer, and tied a rope around the notches that will go to the floor. I found a piece of wood to use as a foot pedal, about 1"x 5"x12", and drilled two holes in it at one end about an inch apart, in the centerline of the long axis. Thread the rope through the holes and set up the wood like a foot pedal, about 4" off the floor. Lay the pedal flat on a small piece of 4"x4" scrap. To operate the pedal, push down with your toes , leaving the rear half of the pedal on the 4x4 platform. The rope might need some height adjustment to allow proper movement and a comfortable setup.
The regimen is: LF operates lever, LH installs case; RH operates drill and trims case, LF operates lever, RH removes case, LH installs case, etc. I timed myself once; I got 500 cases an hour at a leisurely pace, including a break. Cranking for the record, I knocked out 723 cases once.
There's no reason to buy the electric; you can set that up for yourself for way less money. RCBS sells a 3-way cutter that trims, chamfers, and deburrs in one stroke, for ~ $35. It's well worth the cost.
It's been a long time ago since I did this, so somebody help me out here if I've ommited anything on the shaft modification:
To set up the trimmer for electric operation, remove the crank handle from the shaft. Replace it with a small bolt that's threaded all the way to the 'head' (I spun extra nuts down the bolt's shaft to allow a longer grip [you'll understand what I mean in a second]). Buy a 1/4"-drive socket that'll fit over the bolt (and extra nuts). Attach a 1/4"-drive universal (kind of spring-loaded) extension and attach it to a hand-held drill (110V or battery, it doesn't matter). The universal extension will allow the proper "slop" so your drill doesn't have to be perfectly in line with the shaft. (I had to put a small plastic box under my drill to elevate it-- the bottom half of a reloading die box upside down is just about perfect). So far, all this is GP for thems of us that cruise the reloading forums. I didn't think this up myself.
Here's my personal addition:
I cut a couple of deep notches into the lever handle on the left side of the RCBS case trimmer, and tied a rope around the notches that will go to the floor. I found a piece of wood to use as a foot pedal, about 1"x 5"x12", and drilled two holes in it at one end about an inch apart, in the centerline of the long axis. Thread the rope through the holes and set up the wood like a foot pedal, about 4" off the floor. Lay the pedal flat on a small piece of 4"x4" scrap. To operate the pedal, push down with your toes , leaving the rear half of the pedal on the 4x4 platform. The rope might need some height adjustment to allow proper movement and a comfortable setup.
The regimen is: LF operates lever, LH installs case; RH operates drill and trims case, LF operates lever, RH removes case, LH installs case, etc. I timed myself once; I got 500 cases an hour at a leisurely pace, including a break. Cranking for the record, I knocked out 723 cases once.
