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I've followed Gatefeo's advice and bought a .380 rb mold. Although .375 rb is easier to find the .380 will present more lead to the rifling.
If you haven't already read Gatefeo's threads in the stickie at the top of the forum do yourself a favor and do so.
I've used .375's with no problem, although I'd rather have used .380's. I did manage to find some .380's last year but haven't tried them yet. 15 gr 777 FFFg, 18 gr Goex FFFg with a lubed felt wad.
Mykeal, I haven't tried them yet due to weather but I've run about 200 and will be trying them as soon as the weather gets warmer. That's the only drawback to shooting BP you have to clean it wether you shoot 1 or 100 so I wait for the opportunity to shoot a lot.
BTW. Kevinpa. Dell leather makes a flap style holster made just for the 1862 Police. I have two of them and they are great. The price is $35 and are made by Dell in upper state New York.
Take a look at www.dellsleatherworks.com. He also has a nifty sholder rig for $75 that will be my next purchase. No other site lists their holster made just for the 62 police and historically accurate.
Your best bet is to measure the cylinder throats, then add 0.003" or so for the ball size. Nevertheless, as a practical matter, pick the next larger commercial size to the cylinder throats.
There are several of us around here that have these '62NPs and all of them have needed stiffer hammer springs. The hammer springs have been so weak so as to allow lots of cap blow-back that accumulates cap material under the hammer and fouls the hammer. I tried everything else first and the only thing that would cure the problem was a stiffer hammer spring.
Shawnee, the holsters are the typical military flap style holster and do cover the trigger guard. Not good for fast draw but great for safety and protection of the firearm.
Bad Flynch, Where did you get the stiffer springs? Mec has a chapter in his book that shows where to grind the frame to give more clearance for the cap pieces to fall out. I like your method better which if I read you right, increase the hammer pressure to decrease hammer bounce and capturing the spent cap.
BTW, Kevinpa if you try the .375 balls and don't like them I might be willing to cast some .380's for you for fun and profit. I've never bought bullits but I'd do some research on the going price plus postage.
>Bad Flynch, Where did you get the stiffer springs? Mec has a chapter in his book that shows where to grind the frame to give more clearance for the cap pieces to fall out. I like your method better which if I read you right, increase the hammer pressure to decrease hammer bounce and capturing the spent cap.<
Well, I bought new springs from Cimarron for one and a buddy simply put a spacer between the spring and the strain screw. Both methods worked fine. The other guys have not fixed theirs, yet anyway.
There is a clearance cut in the frame already. It is a semicircular groove that makes it easier for cap crap to rotate with the cylinder. However, that does nothing to stop the blowback problem. You are right about the hammer bounce, 100%.
That's the word I've been looking for "Cap Crap".
Bad Flynch, were the springs from Cimarron just new springs or were they listed some how as "stronger" springs.
>were the springs from Cimarron just new springs or were they listed some how as "stronger" springs.<
They were simply replacement, stock springs. I suspect that one could get a spare and reharden and retemper the original. That way, if the re- processes did not go right, a spare would be at hand.
Try putting a small, relatively thin, square piece of aluminum between the spring and the spring mount block. Try 0.030" for thickness first and go thicker if needed. The strain screw should handle that easily.
Save yourself a lot of aggravation go to thunder ridge muzzle loading and order their nipples. I have 61 and 51 navies that had cap crap problems bought their nipples no more problems. They are harder and the hole is a wee bit smaller. Shot a complete cowboy match with no cap in the action problems. Your best bet is to send them one cap and they will match it so you get the right caps the first time. Sometimes what is on the gun is different than what you think. Use 380 round balls you want to shave a ring of lead eveytime you push a ball in. 375 balls in my navies barely or never shave a ring of lead. I use a wad then cover the the ball with grease. More than needed but after a cowboy shoot my barrels look as if I only shot once and clean up is real quick. Gus
I took some pictures of my brace of 62's and the holsters but being dumb as a post I'm trying to figure out how to post them. Oh by the way you PC guys need not try to help I'm an Apple kind of guy.
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