870 action release: Express -vs- Wingmaster

[btg3]

The 1956 Wingmaster that I recently purchased has an action release that is harder to operate that any of the 3 Express guns I have for comparison. This seems to be because the release tab on the Wingmaster is shorter, thus is tucked up behind that side of the trigger, making is harder to depress.

I've removed the trigger group to inspect and nothing seems bent or worn. Have the ergonomics been improved since this Wingmaster was made?

If I disassembled the trigger group, could I replace the action realease with a newer part to improve my Wingmaster?

 

[Virginian]

Putting any Express part on a Wingmaster is hardly an improvement. But in this case at least they are both steel. It may be slightly worn from all the years. You can get a new action bar lock from Remington.

 

[Dave McCracken]

My guess is that old gunk and disuse have combined here to make this stiff. A flush and relube followed by some use should clear things up.

 

[dfariswheel]

Before doing anything else, try this:

First, give the trigger group a GOOD cleaning. An easy way is to blast it out with Rem-Oil, shake the excess off, then stand it up on a paper towel pad and let it drain well.

Then, inspect the action bar lock for free and easy movement.
Inspect the working end of the lock.
This is the flat part that points forward and slightly up from the trigger group.
Check the end for excess wear, burrs, or deformation.

Check the end of the action bar on the left side bar.
It's this end that the action bar lock bears against and prevents the action from opening.
Check the end for excess wear, burrs, or deformation.
DO NOT file or alter the angles of the action bar lock or the action bar.

Last, put a dab of grease on the ends of the action bar lock and action bar.

Here's an exploded view of the 870.
The action bar lock is part 56. The working end is the end to the right on the drawing.
The action bar to check is part 28.

http://www.stevespages.com/ipb-remington-870.html

 

[mljdeckard]

I concur with Dave and Faris. I don't know if you have stripped it to clean it, but all you need to do is clear it, and knock out the two pins holding the action in. Use a smaller object like a cleaning rod tip or a punch. Better men than me are careful to make sure they don't ding up the pins or the holes, but it's no big deal if you do. Toothbrush the whole thing, lube it, put it back in.

 

[btg3]

Apologies for not posting photos initially...

Both triggers are clean, gunk-free, and the action locks take nearly the same force to operate. But when I push the short tab on the Wingmaster, my finger almost immediately bottoms out against the trigger guard before the action lock moves far enough to release the action. To make it release, I have to push the tab up along side of the finger guard. (These are right-handed triggers and I use my trigger finger to reach under the receiver to the action lock tab. It's easy with the long tab, but not with the short tab.)

It's apparent in the photo that the tab is shorter on the Wingmaster and, IMO, is an inferior design that has since been improved at some point along the way. It looks like I could swap out this short-tab lock for a newer long-tab action lock and make this gun more enjoyable. I was seeking confirmation before I proceed.

 

[mljdeckard]

Are you doing it yourself? I would order both from Midway, try one, if it doesn't work, you have a replacement.

 

[Virginian]

Huh, I never noticed that before. All mine have been the shorter ones. I liked them just fine and don't consider that change much of an improvement. To each their own. Look at the difference in finish on those Wingmaster parts. Miss the old chrome lifters. Those were in my humble opinion the best Wingmasters of all.

 

[Fred Fuller]

Personally I'd swap out a newer trigger plate assembly with the newer style latch and not disrupt the older one - never hurts to have a spare 870 trigger plate around anyway. The hammer pin, which the latch pivots on also, is open on the other end (you have to push up the lifter to see it) and is 'riveted' in place by being expanded with a punch when installed. The riveting on the old pin has to be drilled out for it to be removed and the new one has to be fitted and 'riveted' in place. It's not as simple a job to do well as it might appear at first glance, unless your gunsmithing skills are reasonably good.

The one at http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=226466505 is currently listed at $14.99 and seems to have the newer latch...

lpl

 

[btg3]

Lee -- Thanks for walking me thru the gunsmithing. I'll put that on hold while exploring other options. I'm following the auction link and hoepfully can win that trigger assembly at a good price.