9mm 115gr JHP 1350 FPS How do they do it?

[Gary H]

Here are some top contenders for 9mm self-defense.

Manu. Brand Type Grains fps fpe Shoot. Success
Cor-Bon N/A JHP 115 1350 466 32 91%
Federal N/A +P+ JHP 115 1300 432 109 90%
Win N/A +P+ JHP 115 1305 435 98 90%
Rem N/A +P+ JHP 115 1310 439 57 89


How do you keep the flash down and safely load to these velocities?

What is the best 9mm brass?

Regarding Brass: Is +P just a marketing pitch, or does it signify a stronger case?

Thanks..

 

[HSMITH]

Ammo companies have access to powder that you and I will never see. It is made specifically with flash suppressants and coatings that modify the burn rates. Progressively burning powders are how they are doing it, and we can get progressive powders (nearly all are anymore) but not the same ones. Flash on some of the +P and +P+ is a lot worse than you think, you are going to have to shoot some in low light to quantify it.

+P or +P+ brass is no stronger in my experience, but it will be easy find out for sure when you shoot some for the flash check, measure the water capacity of some standard and +P brass from the same manufacturer. Most +P and +P+ 9mm brass bulges pretty decently when fired, so resize BOTH types of brass without decapping before measuring capacity.

 

[Significent]

If you have to shoot 9mm bullets at those velocities, why not move up to a 357SIG. It's essentially a 40S&W case necked down to 9mm. You won't see less flash and it's quite a bit louder, but 1350 is ho-hum velocity with 125gr bullets. I would think this to be safer than pushing your 9mm pistol.

 

[WESHOOT2]

FUNNY YOU SHOULD MENTION..........

Yesterday's chrono test (4.5" Witness) with a "certain" 115g JHP +P+ factory load:

50F, overcast; 10-shot average 1415fps, ES 25.0fps, SD 8.8fps, tested before in dark -- low flash.

 

[KP95DAO]

I don't think it's a big deal. My carry 9mm load moves a 125 gr modified MG JHP at 1350 out of my KP95s. I do use a CCI 400 primer, FC case, and 10 grs of one of my "special" powders. Also the bullets are moly coated.
Five hundred ft/lbs is easily attained in the 9mm. Five hindred and eighty ft/lbs are easily attained in the 357 Sig, with Starline brass, CCI 400 primer, the same bullet, and a dollop of another one of my "special" powders. Ho, hum.

 

[Gary H]

KP95DAO

Do you also know the formula for Coke Classic?

 

[HSMITH]

Yesterday's chrono test (4.5" Witness) with a "certain" 115g JHP +P+ factory load:

50F, overcast; 10-shot average 1415fps, ES 25.0fps, SD 8.8fps, tested before in dark -- low flash:

Cor-Bon makes some stiff ammo Or was it Pro-Load?

 

[Zak Smith]

Getting a 115gr to over 1300fps is not a big deal. There's lots of published, non +P, data that will get you there (e.g. 1/2002 VihtaVuori book).

Note that 124gr+P often clocks in at 1300fps from a full-size gun.

My best advice for someone without access to "special" powders is to start with one that doesn't flash much compared to other commercial powders. I've had good luck with VV, again, in this regard.

-z

 

[WESHOOT2]

YEAH RIGHT

Noooooooooo..................

Not Cor-Bon Pro Load Triton.......................'certain'

 

[Mikul]

Aside from magic powders, there are two other things that can reduce the flash.

Use a powder with a burn rate which is fast enough to fully burn in your barrel. The longer your barrel, the slower the powder you can tolerate. Be careful with fast burning powders. Some reach peak pressure earlier than others and can create a dangerous situation.

Crimp. Use it. Especially with full-power loads, you want to put a solid crimp on the bullet. Don't crush the bullet and make a grenade, but keep adding crimp until you see a major dent in a pulled bullet then back it off a bit. The crimp will hold the bullet in the case until a bit more powder has burned. Too much crimp will ruin accuracy by damaging the bullet and at the extreme end will blow up your gun.